Headlights died on my 1983 Crew after a trip to the car wash

[PJensen]

Help.

I just went and washed my truck and the headlights (both low and high beam) are dead. The running, turn and stop lamps are okay.

When I turn the headlight switch on there is 12v to the floor mounted dimmer switch. The dimmer switch works and there is no power to the headlamp sockets.

Has anyone taken their bulhead connector apart on this vintage truck?

I need to crawl under the dash this weekend and just trace the wiring out. I am just wondering if anyone has had this problem and what they found to be the culprit.

Thanks in advance for all advice

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Paul
1983 1 ton Crew Cab 4WD that needs a Cummins soon
South Burbs Chicago, Illinois

[This message has been edited by PJensen (edited 02-13-2001). ]

 

[paccool]

Paul, Question for you. Did you wash under the hood with the pressure wand?

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, PW Injectors,Auto w/4. 10 rear with limited slip, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 31/2" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, new 40-20-40 bucket seats, 149K

 

[PJensen]

I didn't wash under the hood but I did hit the inner fender wells all around the truck.

This must be where I created my problem.

Here is an update: I just jumpered a hot lead from the battery to the low/high beam terminals on the headlights. That worked, so the ground to the headlight circuit is good.

Next I removed the dimmer and jumpered the power to the low/high beam terminals there no lights. It looks like the bulkhead is the problem.

Thanks for any feedback

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Paul
1983 1 ton Crew Cab 4WD that needs a Cummins soon
South Burbs Chicago, Illinois

[This message has been edited by PJensen (edited 02-14-2001). ]

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Paul,
If memory serves, there is a fuseable link, under the hood just for the head lights. I would check there first. It is just down from the battery. If you need any wiring harness let me know, I still have parts of my 85 harness.
Kyle

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1985 DODGE 1 ton Crew Cab(imported from California with no rust) W/8' box converted to 4X4 in 1999. Converted to a non-intercooled 1991 Cummins Turbo diesel & rebuilt 5 speed Getrag in 2000(wife can't drive a stick . Freshly rebuilt and Balanced Cummins, Rebuilt NP205, Rebuilt Injector pump and tweaked, Matched Injectors, 3" New Mandrel Bent Exhaust,no muffler, Borgeson Steering Shaft, K&N Air Filter, 4:10 gears, limited slip rear end, 16" Goodyear GSA Wranglers and LE Package and a Sony CD Stereo. Next add-on some “Banks” toys ! If you want to know why I did all of this, 2 kids, one on the way and I can't stand Ford and Chevy. Kyle Hoover ,Fruitport, MI.

 

[PJensen]

Okay so far this is what I have found out.

I have been able to power the headlamps from the dimmer switch connector on both the high and low beams.

I was getting voltage to the dimmer with the headlight switch on but sometimes I found this to be different values all the time.

Shotgunning is not troubleshooting but all of my testing leads me to believe the headlight switch is to blame.

Just bought a new one tonight and I will attempt to put it in thursday after work.

How much of the dash do I have to tear apart to do this?

I think just the front trim woodgrain looking stuff and then I should be able to get to the switch.

Thanks for the input and Ill keep you posted.



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Paul
1983 1 ton Crew Cab 4WD that needs a Cummins soon
South Burbs Chicago, Illinois

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Paul
You will need to remove the "wood grain cover" Remove the light in the dash first. Make sure that you get all the screws out(there is one kinda hidden just above the radio)the top of the wood grain cover comes out first and behind that there is a black cover with 3 phillips head screws hiding the light switch. The knob of the light switch comes off by starting with the light switch on and then pushing a steel button on the back of the switch, at the same time gently pull the switch out the rest of the way. You will have a heck of a time getting to the back of the switch, (if you have AC)so check your new one for the position of the button. Hopes this helps, I have torn the dash/wiring out of my 73/78/79/82/84/85/89/& 91 Dodge trucks so many times I can do it in my sleep. I still have wiring from my 85 & 89 Trucks hanging on my garage walls.
Kyle

 

[B.G. Smith]

I had the bulkhead connector loose on a 77, There were some clips on the outside which remove a couple of wires but the big portion was held by a screw in the center, a 3/8" head I believe.

 

[PJensen]

CrewCabDiesel,

Thanks for the tips I just finished installing the new switch. That was the problem.

While I'm in there I will put all new dash bulbs in for good measure.

It's nice to have headlights again. #ad


Thanks for all the help.



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Paul
1983 1 ton Crew Cab 4WD that needs a Cummins soon
South Burbs Chicago, Illinois

 

[paccool]

Glad you found the problem. Any clues from someone as to why the car wash may have caused this or was it just a fluke?

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Stan
93 2WD extended cab, Banks Power Pack, K&N Air Filter, PW Injectors,Auto w/4. 10 rear with limited slip, US Gear Exhaust Brake, 31/2" Exhaust, 5K air bags, Boost/Pyro/Tach Gauges, Green/Silver, new 40-20-40 bucket seats, 149K

 

[PJensen]

It appears that the headlights going south and the car wash was a fluke.

This reminds me of what I learned in high school. "KISS" keep it simple stupid.

I did check the bulkhead connection and all the wiring to the headlights. I did this by jumpering a 12v lead to the wires at the dimmer switch that go to both the low and high beams.

I did a continuity test on the dimmer switch and that was good.

With the headlight switch on check the voltage to the supply side on the dimmer switch and the voltage reading was flakey.

Thanks for the help and I hope this helps others.




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Paul
1983 1 ton Crew Cab 4WD that needs a Cummins soon
South Burbs Chicago, Illinois