headunit upgrade with Infinity system

[Jeff Clark]

I did a search and couldn't find an answer. I'm about to replace my headunit with a Clarion VRX935 and replace all the door speakers with new components. The headunit puts out 200 wats (50x4) so I don't plan on adding an amp for those speakers. I was hoping to buy a wiring harness so that I could hook up through the factory wiring and not have to run new wires through the doors. I went to Best Buy to buy a harness and all they had was the one-size-fits-all. He said that I would have to wire all the speakers direct. The only thing that the wire harness would be good for was the 12 volt power, 12 volt acc. and ground. My first question is can I go through the factory amp like I had planned? Do they even have a harness for that? Anyone have some experience with this? I don't want to cut into any factory wiring, so if there isn't a harness, I'll just bypass the factory amp and wire everything direct.

 

[thejeepdude]

Originally posted by Jeff Clark

I'm about to replace my headunit with a Clarion VRX935 and replace all the door speakers with new components. The headunit puts out 200 wats (50x4)

The thing to keep in mind is that those 200 watts are really FAR from 200 watts. That's the max rating, as measured at a fixed frequency with an audible amount of distortion. You can figure on getting about 12-15W per channel out of that head unit, and that's not enough to drive any decent aftermarket speaker to audible levels over wind noise without distortion. I'd suggest at least a 35x4 or even better 50x4 amp to wire into the system and your results will be a thousand times better. You can get an adequate amp online for probably 100 bucks if you're trying to save money. You might be better off with the Infinity system which isn't really THAT bad compared to a head unit with no amp, until you can afford to do it right. The best bang for your buck if you don't want anything too crazy would be a 4 channel amp with 2 channels powering the front and 2 channels bridged for a small sub, or a 5 channel amp if you really care that much about rear. I'd just use the head unit power for the rear fill. Just some thoughts...

 

[Jeff Clark]

This is the information from Clarion's website.

http://www.clarion.com/usa/product/index.php?mod=details&category=proaudio&product=VRX935VD



* ProAudio Unit

* Fully Motorized, 7" Wide-Screen Color LCD Monitor

* Touch-Panel Control

* Single Play DVD Mechanism Plays DVD Video,

* Plays MP3-Encoded CD-R/RW Discs

* Radio Tuner With 18FM / 6AM Presets

* Sirius Satellite Radio Ready

* CeNET Control of Optional Dolby Digital / dts 5. 1 Processor, TV Tuner, Sirius Satellite Radio Receiver, DVD Changer and 6-Disc Audio CD Changer

* Multi-Changer Control, CD Text, CD Titling (Audio Changer Only), Station Titling

* 3-Band Parametric EQ (Beat EQ)

* 2 A/V Inputs (1 RCA, 1 CCA389)

* Rear Vision Camera Input

* 4-Volt, 6-Channel RCA Line Level Output

* 24-Bit DACs

* Fiber Optic Output for Use With DVH940 5. 1 Dolby Digital / dts Decoder / Processor

* Excellent Off-Axis Viewing

* 336,950-Pixel Display

* Screen Resolution of 1440 x 234

* 212-Watt (53W x 4)

* IR Remote Control

* Partially Detachable Faceplate

* 4-Channel Loop Back Circuit



This is a $2000 headunit. It has the piece that mounts in the dash and a seperate piece nearly as large that mounts behind the dash. It is advertised to have a built-in amplifier. I have no reason to doubt that it can put out that kind of power, I just didn't want to spend another 400 bucks to get 25 more watts per channel.

 

[thejeepdude]

But here's the part you left out from their site that really matters:



Audio Amplifier

Rated Power Output 18W x 4 (20Hz-20kHz, 1%THD, 4 ohms)



OK, so I was off by 3 watts. The point is, even at 18W output the THD is 1%. It doesn't matter how expensive a head unit is, there's only so much current you can draw in that small of a space and maintain cooling. Plus, they expect someone who's buying a $2000 head unit to be buying a decent amp to go with it, so why should they put R&D into something not being used? That's why many high end head units used to come with no amp (and some still do, but now it's so cheap to include one, they just leave it there for the small % who use it, usually temporarily while saving for more amps ). You say you don't want to spend $400 for an extra 25 watts, but trust me, it would be worth it. But really there's no need to spend $400 if you're strapped. You could get a decent 2x50W amp for next to nothing and it would sound WAAAY better than driving your front speakers off the head. Just power the rears off the head for a little fill but fade forward to keep the rears from distorting. Why would you buy a head unit with 4V pre-outs and very low distortion, only to have it sound like crap? As they say... . been there done that.

 

[Jeff Clark]

Originally posted by thejeepdude

:

Audio Amplifier

Rated Power Output 18W x 4 (20Hz-20kHz, 1%THD, 4 ohms)

I didn't see that. I've already got 2500 invested in all this, what's another 400 right?

 

[Jeff Clark]

OK, I just got back from the car stereo shop and I bought a 300 watt 4 channel amp to run all the door speakers so my qusetion is null and void.

 

[gjacobs]

I any of you guys want to sell your stock 6 disk out of the infinity trucks give me a call.

Thanks,

George

817-793-4913

 

[klenger]

OK, I just got back from the car stereo shop and I bought a 300 watt 4 channel amp to run all the door speakers so my qusetion is null and void.

Now we're talking

 

[thejeepdude]

Originally posted by Jeff Clark

OK, I just got back from the car stereo shop and I bought a 300 watt 4 channel amp to run all the door speakers so my qusetion is null and void.

I think you'll be quite pleased. It's only money, right?

 

[Jeff Clark]

With only 18 watts a channel, I know I need to run an amp. I didn't realize that the 50 watts a channel was peak, and so I didn't figure that I needed an additional amp. I'm all ready to go now.