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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heated flip Up Mirror Swap

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I have a couple of questions to ask about this memorable task that I put upon myself to do this weekend, but before I do I want to send "Thanks" to the following TDR members for their previous postings to make this swap possible. I want to "Thank" Rob Thomas, Sarge, PLeavitt and KingRam for taking the time to type out great tips & instructions.

At this point I have all mirrors '02 and '03's reassembled after swaping the sails but still need to extend the wiring and hook up to the knob as soon as it comes in. As for the "heat switch" I plan to go to Radio Shack to purchase it just to save $153. 00! Is the wiring for this heat function always hot or only when the vehicle is running? Did anyone make it a lighted switch or it it not needed? One more... ..... If I plan to sell these '03 flip mirrors on e-bay, what is a fair asking price?

As I reflect on this morning when the first spring went ... ... ... ... . BOING and bounced off the wall just missing the dog it is now funny. I was thinking, "There should be a special club or patch for us that take this crazy idea and carry it out. "

:D I love my flip tow mirrors and now them being Electric and Heated... ... ... ... ... I'm pumpedOo.

Once again, Thanks to the above for your help.

Cliff
 
Cliff, your very welcome! Sure beats non-power anyday, eh?



When wiring the heat switch, just use a key-on-hot only wire, this will save your heat element from a short life, if/when you forget to turn it off. I used lighted switch, just so I remembered it was on, since I didn't hook up a timer.



Not sure what a fair price is, mine are still in the corner of the garage, LOL.





Rob
 
Gotta love these mirrors. The heat function really comes in handy on cold,wet mornings. I broke down and bought a new ac/heat controller with mirror heat switch. I found a place in the links that sold it for $100. 00 but a lighted switch would work well. I have some toggle switches with a L. e. d. in the end. Got them from Pac Brake but I have seen them other places. You sure get a lot of respect for the energy the spring has as it flys past your face. I too still have the none electric heads and will find some use for them. Maybe part out for those with broken, non-electric glass. I too owe Rob Thomas a thanks for his knowledge to complete this mod. You the man Rob.
 
I want to extend my thanks to those who have posted the power/heat/tow mirror swap too! Without reading those posts, I would have never thought it could be possible. I've looked at the manual ones I've got and always thought that the design should have always been power-operated. Especially for the re-adjustment needed when flipping from standard to towing and back.



I've got all the parts now, just need a day to do the work. I spent the money on the HVAC control because of the factory timer feature and for the clean look. It turns the heat on for 15 minutes, then turns off. A second press of the button turns the heat on for another 5 minutes after that. I'm looking forward to getting it all together. I'll post results if I figure out a less-dramatic way of pulling the springs out!
 
Welcome to the club "ntillm01"!

I wish I had the adjustment knob so that I could complete this project, but it should be here by the end of the week or next Monday at the latest. Without the knob I'm still a little confused on the wiring but maybe that will clear up once I can see it. As for:



I'll post results if I figure out a less-dramatic way of pulling the springs out!



Hey! No Cheating now ... ... ... ... ... . You have to be like the rest of us and watch the spring bounce off of furnature, walls and your wifes knick-knacks there WERE on the shelves. Just be careful and be aware of where you point the spring ~~~ it will make a girl out of you real quick

:--)



If there is anything I can help with, don't hesitate to ask. Cliff
 
Could you take a picture, or get some more info on the timer switch. I want to know if I can remove the switch itself or make a similar on.



A friend of mine just put the flip mirrors on his 96.
 
Switch location

On my truck the location for the mirror heat switch was in the bottom ,left corner of the HVAC control panel. If you push on this area you can see that it is already cut out oval shaped. The stock one that I replaced seems to have a lot of room(somewhat)and you maybe able to put a switch in that location. As far as the timer part I have no idea of it's location. Is it a timer or does it respond to temp. or resistance? Mine will turn on for about 10 minutes and if I turn it on again it stays on somewhat longer. One of you electrical wizards would know for sure. How about it?



Pete
 
I'm looking to upgrade 2002 with towing mirrors, but don't have the money to do the full electric swap. Will any of your guys leftover pieces work for me, or am I still gonna need a different set of bases for the towing mirrors. Apparently the manual towing mirrors for the 2G's are on backorder. Wish I could do the full swap like you guys. :(
 
Aaron,



None of the left-overs will help you, like you said, you'll need the bases (or "sails") to make everything work, and they are not available seperatly. Unless you can find a set of 2nd gen flip-up mirror's in the bone yard, you'll need to buy the entire kit new.





Rob
 
What Rob said. Also, I gave my 03' parts away to a member that was not as fortunate. May I suggest the "Pay it forward" area, if you can afford it. Sarge
 
Hey Rob;



Since the last spring has now bounced off the wall along the the retainer clip and the most dangerous part is finished without bodily injury. I still am not to clear on how to hook the heat up. Understand the key only hot but to get the power to the passenger side did you have to run a hot wire to that mirror or can you tap into the wires leading into the door somewhere?



I would also like to add my thanks to everyone who has made this possible cause I sure am tired of adjusting them by hand every time I switch from normal to towing.



Mike
 
Mike, when I did the swap, I forgot to write down the wiring, but I just talked to Cliff (RockymntDDD) about this today, I'm sure if you PM him he will be more than happy to tell you exacly what color wire you need to get from one door to the other.



Basicly, there are 2 black wires for the heat on each mirror, one from each is ground, simply ground to the door sheet metal.



The other wire (one from each mirror) goes to the ACC on your new switch (I assume you are using an aftermarket switch). There are 2 wires "left over" in the wiring harness in the doors, they go from one door to the other, pick the same color wires from each side, and hook up the remaining black wires to it (for the ACC).



Then 12 volt key-hot to the 12v side of the switch, and the remaining terminal for the switch ground.





Rob





BTW, glad you dodged the spring. :)
 
Mirror heat switch

I did some checking in the service manual on the factory wiring for these. Rob, one of the black wires for heat is already spliced to the other door, AND already grounded in the rest of the truck wiring. I recommend checking which one is grounded before trying to put 12V of juice to either of the black wires. Now, this is just from looking at a book, so I could be wrong here.



As far as the mirror switch, it is integral to the HVAC control. The cutout mentioned is probably punched out at the time the control is built. I think it would be a challenge to try to find a (the) switch that fits in the hole and affix it to the back side of the HVAC control sucessfully. My 0. 02.



I wish I could say I'd be posting pictures soon, but holiday activities are scrunching my mirror project time.
 
Re: Mirror heat switch

Originally posted by ntillm01

I did some checking in the service manual on the factory wiring for these. Rob, one of the black wires for heat is already spliced to the other door, AND already grounded in the rest of the truck wiring. I recommend checking which one is grounded before trying to put 12V of juice to either of the black wires. Now, this is just from looking at a book, so I could be wrong here.








ntillm01,



What you said would be true if this was a bolt-in swap. However, since most of us aren't using the factory heat switch, we have 2 black wires coming from each mirror (not hot nor grounded yet) and then two wires running from door to door (not grounded onr hot either). We are simply making a connection from door to door using the existing wires, and grounding the other one(s), while using an aftermarket switch.



Rob
 
I have been looking around, and a couple of companies make 'triggered delay' relays.



A relay with a built in timer... up to about 5 minutes... that when you push a button, the timer starts and the circuit is closed (heater is on), when the time is up, the relay opens (heater turns off)



So far I could only find one retailer (online) alliedelectronics.com, but they sell the fancier digital one...



that version with a 10 amp relay, using 12vdc sells for about $70.



I guess considering the cost of the mirrors, $70 isn't too bad, but I think the less fancy analog timer is only about $40... of course I can't find one of those.
 
Rob,



No, I understand using an aftermarket switch to power the heaters. Connecting using the cross-truck wires is what I'm looking at. I do believe one of the cross-truck ones is grounded.



Thanks,

Nohr
 
Job completed this pm. I went ahead and used all the factory wiring as it all matched my service manual. Got a mini lighted rocker switch and after disassembling the HVAC panel and with the help of a dremel tool. enlarged the punched out hole and installed the switch. Using the manual wiring diagram it was a snap, they work like a champ and I think it's going to be a BOMB that I will love for years. Thanks again to all who helped make this possible.
 
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