Heater Core for 1996

[Matt42]

I'm fixin to replace the heater fore in my 1996 Club Cab, for the second time in 15 years. I'll also be replacing the whole dash assembly at the same time.

The last time I replaced the heater core, I used a NAPA part. That was the kind where the tubes are pressed into the upper tank, and can rotate within a plastic washer. The washer, in turn, is held in by crimping the ferrule around it. Rotating the tubes made it easier--in theory--to fit it through the firewall, without having to bend the tubes. It looked like the plastic washers prevented the tubes from touching the core and tank, which I was afraid might contribute to electrolysis. Whatever the cause, the NAPA heater core is leaking. I don't yet know where it's leaking from.

The original MoPar heater core had a ground screw. The NAPA replacement did not, so I set up a ground wire. Was that a mistake?

I have been looking at replacement heater cores at various sources. Regardless of the brand and the price, they all look the same. The tubes look like they are pressed in just like the NAPA core that's now leaking. One brand states that it is all-aluminum. The others don't say what they are made of. Geno's replacement for a 1996 is made by GPD. It also seems to have swivel tubes.

Has anyone had notable success with a particular brand? And has anyone had bad experience with a brand?

Edit: I originally posted that Geno's didn't have these, but it seems that they do. So the edit reflects that.

 

[petersonj]

I know you mention Geno's doesn't list a heater core for your truck, but I used a Geno's heater core for replacement in my truck in 2017 (about 90,000 miles ago). It was a Mopar heater core and is still doing fine.

Please let us know where the failure is when you get it removed. Curious to know if it was in the swivel joints.

- John

 

[Matt42]

I know you mention Geno's doesn't list a heater core for your truck, but I used a Geno's heater core for replacement in my truck in 2017 (about 90,000 miles ago). It was a Mopar heater core and is still doing fine.

Please let us know where the failure is when you get it removed. Curious to know if it was in the swivel joints.

- John

Looks like Geno's does list a replacement. I edited my post to reflect that. I wish the MoPar part was still available outside of museums. It'll be a while before I get to it. It was 112F outside today, and heater work wasn't appetizing.

But to get to it, I also need to tear out the seats. Replace the driver seat motors and gears. Install the seat heaters, and also the replacement cushions that were given to me by @irondukeII. Find some paint for the replacement dashboard I have found. Disembowel the dashboard. All along the way, I need to fix the unexpected stuff that comes up.

 

[NIsaacs]

Spendy but should be a good one.

https://thebrassworks.net/collections/heater-cores/products/2001-dodge-ram-1500-heater-core

 

[Matt42]

Spendy but should be a good one.

https://thebrassworks.net/collections/heater-cores/products/2001-dodge-ram-1500-heater-core

That is a little spendy. But if it doesn't leak, it's actually inexpensive. Thanks.

 

[petersonj]

It appears that you have a choice of either, rigid soldered piping, or piping connected with worm type hose clamps. I personally would NOT use the hose clamp type - using them would be inviting a leak to occur.

When I replaced my heater core with the rigid piping OEM heater core, I did not have any real difficulty installing the heater core.

- John

 

[Shelby Griggs]

Knock on wood, my 2001 is almost 23 years old and factory heater core. I have been running Fleetguard coolant for a long time, probably over 200k miles since I ditched the green factory fill. Wonder if that is why, changed once when I lost the radiator due to a split. Getting ready to change again because I am replacing all the hoses with silicone this summer, but this stuff seems to have a long life and remains bright blue for well over 100k miles. Hoping that is why my heater core is still good, now look I will probably get a leak just from touching while changing the heater hoses!

#ad

 

[Matt42]

Knock on wood, my 2001 is almost 23 years old and factory heater core. I have been running Fleetguard coolant for a long time, probably over 200k miles since I ditched the green factory fill. Wonder if that is why, changed once when I lost the radiator due to a split. Getting ready to change again because I am replacing all the hoses with silicone this summer, but this stuff seems to have a long life and remains bright blue for well over 100k miles. Hoping that is why my heater core is still good, now look I will probably get a leak just from touching while changing the heater hoses!

#ad

23 years with the original heater core is hard to beat.

As it happens, I have the truck's original owner's manual out tonight. All that it says about coolant specifications is that ethylene glycol coolant should be used. The 1996 TSM is similarly worded. So after the initial factory fill, I stuck to the OEM-style "green stuff" that met ASTM 4985 specs. I used those specs because they seemed to limit the choice to known brands, and didn't include dollar store type house brands. Sticking with the original type may have been a mistake. Or not. When I tore down the dashboard the first time, I discovered that the OEM heater core hadn't been correctly grounded. So electrolysis may have been the culprit.

When compared with the time and effort involved with replacing a heater core, the cost of good coolant is peanuts. I'll see about b uying the Fleetguard Blue ES Compleat this time round.

 

[BigPapa]

I ran green ethylene glycol in my '95 and then after I put it in the '98. The engine had over 550K on it, '95 had 385K and the '98 had 365K on it, never replaced a heater core in either truck.

 

[Matt42]

I ran green ethylene glycol in my '95 and then after I put it in the '98. The engine had over 550K on it, '95 had 385K and the '98 had 365K on it, never replaced a heater core in either truck.

Good outcomes like these make me feel foolish or unlucky.

 

[Matt42]

Spendy but should be a good one.

https://thebrassworks.net/collections/heater-cores/products/2001-dodge-ram-1500-heater-core

I have one of these on order. I'll report back with my impressions.

 

[Shelby Griggs]

I have one of these on order. I'll report back with my impressions.

For that price I would hope it is everything you have dreamed of in a heater core.

 

[Matt42]

For that price I would hope it is everything you have dreamed of in a heater core.

That is also my hope. When it comes to heater cores, it's not so much the price of the part as it is the awful effort required to replace it.

 

[petersonj]

I personally would not use the provided worm-drive hose clamps in an area that cannot be inspected easily. Using them is an invitation for a leak - a leak in a place you cannot service.

Instead, I would use the correct size of a constant tension spring clamp. They are highly reliable and they always apply a uniform pressure regardless of thermal expansion / contraction and vibration.

I rarely ever use a worm-drive hose clamp anymore.

- John

 

[GAmes]

The hose clamps are under the hood. The have to be removed/reinstalled when replacing the rubber heater hoses. I use the spring clamps there, but also have worm drive clamps installed as a backup.

 

[petersonj]

I think this is the heater core being referenced. I don't think these hose clamps are accessible under the hood.

- John

 

[GAmes]

I would say you are correct. Those look as sketchy as the swivel hose models sold elsewhere.

 

[NIsaacs]

I think this is the heater core being referenced. I don't think these hose clamps are accessible under the hood.

- John

View attachment 138238

Yes, that is option two. Option one is solid, no hose or clamps. Not sure which one the OP ordered.

 

[Matt42]

I ordered the solid, uncut type. I reasoned that if cutting was needed, I could do it myself.