2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heater core replacement question

[krtcummins]

My heater core is leaking on my 01, as I smell coolant inside the cab when I turn the heat on. I'm looking for anyone that has replaced theirs. Any tips? Does the whole dash have to come out? First my son's VP44 and now my heater core at 107,000 miles.

Merry Xmas! Oo.

 

[krtcummins]

I guess no one here has replaced a heater core in their 2nd gen????

 

[tolmsted]

Hang in there, someone will post information, in fact I think I read here lately that the heater replacement was written up in maybe Issue 64 of TDR if I recall correctly. I have about 188,000 miles on my 01. 5 and I have the same smell in the last couple weeks and today I had to open the passenger window for some fresh air. Tomorrow I will be digging into the heater replacement and get it replaced.



FWIW In the last few months I had to loosen the dash to replace the bracket for the pedals. It was not hard. Screws on top of dash below windshield and 2 bolts behind the what I call the kick panels. Warning, Do not remove these bolts, just loosen them about 1/2". You will see why when you are down there, the steel bracket have slots for removal and support of the dash, if necessary. I also had to remove the steering column which gave me a little worry but I had disconnected both batteries before hand so I would not set off an airbag. Also note that the steering column plastic trim that surrounds the ignition switch requires a TORX Security bit with a hole in the end. I had to make a trip to Home Depot and bought a set and was good to go. Hell, I had the instrument cluster out, The radio out etc. I'm ready to take on this heater core replacement tomorrow, should have it done in about an hour !!!!! Ha HA.



I know, maybe several hours, I'll watch the time and report here.



Good luck and get -her- done !

Tom

 

[fest3er]

Several have. I need to, but haven't gotten a round tuit yet. (Of course, the failed rear brake line now takes precedence; the truck's going to sit until it gets a little warmer. )

The whole dash doesn't need to be fully removed. But the steering column has to be dropped and the dash pulled away from its installed position. There is no other way to get at the heater or evaporator cores.

While you are in there, you might as well inspect everything and plan to replace/repair; you don't want to go in there more than once. As I understand, it's pretty much an 8-hour job.

STF. There are a few threads dealing with dash removal and repairing components. There're also one or two articles in prior magazine issues covering the topic.

 

[Ken Bultman]

My son did mine this past summer only it was not my heater core it was the AC evaporater leaking. He replaced them both while in there. He laid the steering colum on the seat,did not remove. If your doing heater core I suggest doing both of them while in there.

Ken

 

[kenny61]

My son did mine this past summer only it was not my heater core it was the AC evaporater leaking. He replaced them both while in there. He laid the steering colum on the seat,did not remove. If your doing heater core I suggest doing both of them while in there.

Ken

What he said!!! Thats what I did with mine

 

[krtcummins]

I spoke with a Dodge tech I know today. Yep, drop the steering column and pull the dash down far enough to get the AC Evap housing out. While I'm in there I'm going to do the TSB fix for the squeak on the left side 'A" pillar also. The squeak has been driving me nuts for years. Now I can fix it once and for all!

 

[klaybus]

Did my H\C about 1. 5 yrs. ago. It was a PITA that took I believe about 6 hrs. Not too tough but definately a PITA. Beats the heck outta paying a dealer about $1k! Buy the NAPA replacement heater core with the swiveled heater core tubes! It makes the job definately much easier. Good luck.

 

[CBlack]

My son did mine this past summer only it was not my heater core it was the AC evaporater leaking. He replaced them both while in there. He laid the steering colum on the seat,did not remove. If your doing heater core I suggest doing both of them while in there.

Ken

To replace the evaporator, do you have to drain and recharge the A/C?

 

[Ken Bultman]

To replace the evaporator, do you have to drain and recharge the A/C?

Yes you do.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Heater core replacement was covered in Issue 59, p. 90. This was a summary of the article in Issue 46, p. 12. Go to the TDR homepage and click on “digital magazines. ”

The "subject" truck was a 1997.

 

[CBlack]

Yes you do.

Thanks! Is that something that I can do myself or would I need a pro? I don't have any of the tools for A/C work.

Heater core replacement was covered in Issue 59, p. 90. This was a summary of the article in Issue 46, p. 12. Go to the TDR homepage and click on “digital magazines. ”

The "subject" truck was a 1997.

I think I've read that article a dozen times... still building the nerve to attempt it.

 

[Bob Cochran]

Well yes and no.



In the old days it was legal to release refrigerant into the atmosphere which is no longer the case. While I have not done this yet on my truck have on other vehicles. I took the vehicle to a shop and had them use their machine to draw out the old refrigerant.



Then replaced the AC evaporator and drier(my choice). Now in old days would have drawn down the system vacuum and add new refrigerant. I took it back to the place that drew out the old refrigerant. Had them add any oil if needed, draw the system to a vacuum, and refill refrigerant.



I don't remember what it cost now but I seem to remember it was not to expensive.



You still could yourself draw the system vacuum down and make sure no leaks, add refrigerant. All you need is AC gauges(how to use and connect them), thermometer(can do without), pump to draw the system to vacuum, add refrigerant and your good to go. I think doing this part is just easier to let a professional do it.



Getting lazy in my advancing years!!! I am sure there are some here much more knowledgeable than me can provide a much better answer.

Thanks! Is that something that I can do myself or would I need a pro? I don't have any of the tools for A/C work.

 

[JKosten]

Buy the NAPA replacement heater core with the swiveled heater core tubes!

I did the H/C on my truck a fews months ago and it only took a few hours. I spent more time cleaning the carpet than messing with the core.



The trick is get the H/C like stated above with swiveled tubes. Then carefully un-crimp them. Inside that crimp is just an o-ring. Once the tubes are separated you can slide the heater core into the dash WITHOUT removing the evaporator or discharging the A/C system. Once core is in slide each tube into the firewall and back into the core. Re-crimp and good as new. The purpose of the crimp is to prevent the tube from popping off, not creating a seal, that is the o-ring's job.



I hope that helps.

 

[tolmsted]

Did my H\C about 1. 5 yrs. ago. It was a PITA that took I believe about 6 hrs. Not too tough but definately a PITA. Beats the heck outta paying a dealer about $1k! Buy the NAPA replacement heater core with the swiveled heater core tubes! It makes the job definately much easier. Good luck.

Hello KAYBUS,



Could you post the part # here for me/us as my local NAPA counterman doesn't know anything about swiveled heater core tubes at all. The picture also didn't show them but he was going to have the heater in his hands in about 2hrs which is about right now!



Thanks Tom

 

[ABeattie]

I just replaced mine,TWICE. I got one from AUTO-ZONE { $65. 00 }, and it was alluminum. I found out that they will not put out enough heat to even defrost the windshield unless you wait till truck is heatted all the way up. Si I went back to the dealer and got an original copper unit for {$199. 00} and installed it. WOW what a differance. I found that you can fold the dash out, then remove the right side off the bottom mount bolt for more clearance, and instead of messing with the AC, I could apply a pry bar behind the heatter assembly and pru it out just enough to get the old core out and the new core in. It is very tight doing it this way, but I did not have to vac down my AC. { Word of warning- Do NOT GO WITH ALLUMINUM UNLESS YOU HAVE TO}

 

[ABeattie]

The one I had got first from AUTO-ZONE was supposed to be the same Style as the one from NAPA, and they where both ALLUMINUM instead of copper. Believe me when I say that they do not heat as well. You will have to have the engine allot warmer before you get decent heat. I had to wait till truck was up to at least 180 degrees before I felt any good heat, but with a copper unit, I could feel a little heat way before the gauge even left its lowest point.

 

[klcammie]

Read TDR Issue 46 and 59. Idid made changing heater core easier. Got H/C from Autozone it had movable tubes. The TDR article shows how to change without draing AC unless you are changing the Evap core. The hardest part for me was putting the five screws in the top of dash. Good luck and have some fun with it.

 

[klaybus]

Probably too late, but for the next guy that needs the part number of the NAPA heater core..... A picture is worth a thousand words. I found the box in my shop this morning while I was cleaning up.



Clay