2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heater Core

[nfox]

How difficult is it to change out the heater core on our trucks? I think i might have a leaker.

 

[TKremer]

Mine is leaking too. I am also intested in any help people can give.

 

[bmoeller]

Sounds like the WHOLE dash has to come apart.



http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54603&highlight=replace+heater+core

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Wait until TDR #45

You don't need heat during the summer anyway. Just block off the lines so it can't leak any more.

 

[Sled Puller]

Flopping the dash down is not as bad as it sounds, it almost hinges. Just be careful to get all the vacuum lines hooked back up properly.

 

[Andy Redmond]

It's a fun job, change the a/c evap core too while your inside!



Most shops charge at least 8 hrs to do this. After you've changed a few the speed picks up a bit and you can beat the flat rate. If you have a "birds nest" of wiring from aftermarket alarms, sloppy gauge installs etc. plan on some extra time.



Get the applicable FSM to guide you along.



You will need an a/c vacuum pump, and manifold gauges to evacuate the a/c system when you are finished and then recharge the system with 134A . You will also need some 100-150 visc. oil to replace the oil that was in the components changed. Now's a great time to do a coolant system service.



I always change the accumulator/dryer to. Aftermarket components are available, but the DC units fit best. . read $300 +/- for the evap core, htr. core and accumulator.



Good luck

Andy

 

[DRAG DIESEL]

Changing the core only took Kickin'Y2K and me about 2. 5hrs of work... . half of that was figuring out what we wanted to do... . i think we could do it in about 1. 5hrs next time..... make sure you get a replacement heater core with "swivling" lines, that is the most important thing... . i got mine at Napa, lifetime replacement.

 

[DRAG DIESEL]

Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

Wait until TDR #45

You don't need heat during the summer anyway. Just block off the lines so it can't leak any more.

Still havn't fixed the heater in your old truck, have you Joe?



Easy fix... . buy a new one

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Actually, Jake, I just replaced it, for the buyer He better get me the deposit check quick before my scratches and bruises have time to heal

I didn't discharge the AC and didn't know some aftermarket cores have swiveling lines, that would sure help some. I guess yo figgered out a big reason I bought the new one Then I got roped into changing it anyway.

 

[Matt42]

How Soon?

Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

Wait until TDR #45

You don't need heat during the summer anyway. Just block off the lines so it can't leak any more.

When will No. 45 hit the streets? I've blocked off mine waiting for when I have the time to do the job. Wife wants to take the truck to northern New Mexico next week. I told her to dress warmly.



I wanna get this *done* so I can wipe the mildew or whatever that stuff is out of the housing. Maybe the atomized orange stuff smells like mold.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Adding a drain "downpipe" seems to help the problem of water laying/puddling in the blower box/blowing back in and wetting the carpet. My floor has been dry since 1998 when I added the extension to the drain tube that sticks thru the firewall. DC even warrantied out the carpet, changed the rear sliding window and door seals looking for the "leak"



Once you get everything cleaned up inside you'll like the smell, much better!



FYI

The blower box seems to pick up leaves, pine needles etc. from inside the cab or thru the cowl/cab vents over time. I'm blessed that I don't live under any trees. So far none have sprouted in the garage either!



Good luck

Andy