heater fan sporatic

[Baron]

Sometimes it works sometimes Not... ... power windows seem to be associated with this as they seem to work or not work together. Cked fuses and they are good... ... Any ideas on where to go??? Anyone had this problem??? thanks alot baron

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Ok, I suck at electrical things as I've noted before, but... ... working/not working sounds like an intermittent ground problem.

Then again, I still stick a wet finger in light sockets to see if they work too. . so



Maybe one of the other guys has an idea...





Bob.

 

[Baron]

Bushw... . that is funny..... and it sounds right to me I wonder where a common ground may be for these features??? baron

 

[Philip]

Look on the back side of the fuse box. See if the main power bar for the circuits affected is loose. It is riveted on in a few places. The might have came loose.



I'll look threw the manual and see where they both have something in common.

 

[BCaldwell]

jellermeyer you obviously ain't seen his hair (Bushwker) bill

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

:-laf :-laf :-laf





bob - aka 'sparky'

 

[Baron]

well it is really strange... ... windows and heater fan on same faulty circuit. Everyting is working NOW but it will be off again tomorrow I bet. What is that funny fuse that is a silver box type?? It is for the windows it says . I dunno,... ... gotta do some more messing with it all under the dash... . baron

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

In my 93 manual it shows the power windows using a 30A circuit breaker in 'fuse #12 position", that kinda looks like what you are describing, but it is the only thing on that circuit from the look of it.



Bob.

 

[rkubicki]

Baron,



Your best bet at isolating the problem would be to pick one circuit or the other and troubleshoot it... . Probably the power window circuit since it is less complex than the blower circuit.



When they go out the next time, get your miltimeter and check for two things:



- 12 volts after the ignition switch on the power window supply wire.



- Continuity to ground from the power window switch ground wire.



This will essentially break the circuit in half and determine whether the cause is the ground or the power side.



Pay special attention to the voltage reading coming from the ignition switch... The two circuits may be tied together on a common pole within the switch... If this pole is bad then both circuits won't get their 12 volt supply.



Since your problem is intermittent you could also try wiggling the key in the ignition switch (when it is in the run position) with the blower on low and see if it comes on and goes off... If it does, replace your ignition switch.



Dodge was notorious for cutting corners with the electrical system... Another common place of electrical problems is under the dash around the steering column... . There is a metal perferated steering column part that has very sharp edges... There are several large wiring harnesses that are loomed over this column... Over time the harness suffers quite a bit of abrasion from rubbing on the sharp column (the extra vibrations from the CTD engine don't help either)... When the abrasive action finally wears through to the bare wires you can get all kinds of "interesting" things happening... This may not be the case for you but it is worth looking at and wrapping with plastic wire looming material to save future headaches.



Hope this helps,



Rob

 

[Paychk]

I noticed one time none of the power type items working in my truck. It turned out to be the mechanical part of the ignition switch wasn't returning completely to the run position so nothing was getting power. Now when it happens I help it get to the run position, one day I'll replace the lock cylinder.

 

[Philip]

I went threw he manual also. The only places that the two circuits are tied together is at the ingition switch and grounds.



I would start around the ingition switch also. If it was the ground side of the problem you would have all circuits showing problem instead of just two.

 

[Baron]

I appreciate the feedback... ..... I am still "working" on the problem. Now I find that the horn is also sporatic . I have wiggled the ign switch a bunch with no luck but I have wiggled the "area" under the dash near the fuse box with some luck..... like it was working and then not after wiggling but it is such a huge bunch o wires that I have not been able to isolate anything... ..... At least the window are UP now!!! But I sure wish the heater blower was working..... baron

 

[rkubicki]

Baron, electrical glitches can overwhelm you if you let them... Just work through one circuit at a time and you will get there.



Have you gotten a manual for your truck yet? ... Its a good investment - especially if you need wiring diagrams!



Rob

 

[Philip]

I have wiggled the ign switch a bunch with no luck but I have wiggled the "area" under the dash near the fuse box with some luck

This tells you something is wrong around the fuse box also. Did you drop down the fuse box and look at the rivets in the buss bars on the back of the fuse box? There are also some spade plug ins that could have come loose.



Here is a pick of the back side of the box.

 

[Baron]

yea I have pulled it out pressed on it twisted it and inspected it... . more later baron

 

[bkokotovic]

SAME ISSUE

Ok, I've had the same problem on my truck. A while back I posted the same question. The answer was:



"the ignition switch doesn't always come back to the start position. If you just slightly jiggle the key while the truck is on, the contact will be made. " It works in my truck, and it's FREE.

 

[dgibson]

Baron,

My truck had similar problems, window, fan, door locks, etc. I checked the main inputs for the fuse buss bars, one was low (I think theres three bars). The low one was fed from ign. switch the switch was fed from the fuss able link wire harness on top of driver side fender well. Fuss able harness has one main fed and 5-6 branch lines (this head has a unique shape) Black wire in, org. , grn, blue, black out Check the wires for a internal break or external burn and break. Fusible wire is stiff so the break is easy to fill. Mine was one of the org. wires.

Gibster