Archived Heater Grid - 1 bad. Cummins OK?

[Newf Limo]

I have a heater grid issue. One relay appears to be out. I get 10. 9 Volts at the grid on one side and 0. 2v at the other. They both go to zero when it times out.



By feel, the forward relay engages, the aft one does not. I get 12 volts to the relays via the fuseable links.



Cummins shows only a single relay on the parts list. Is that because the unit is sold bracket and all with two relays mounted to it, or is it just the wrong animal. It lists for $90. I called Dodge, and after convincing the parts guy that there really is such thing as an intake heater grid and relays , he said that they are $98 each.



Something tells me I only need to order one, and will get the complete unit. Does anyone know, as I have to order these post haste to get them before the weekend when they are closed.



Thanks folks.



Dennis

 

[Newf Limo]

I just called Dodge back again. He said that it is definately 1 relay only and it would be about a week out. He did a NAPA cross reference and said that they show an "general purpose" unit, with two relays mounted on a bracket for about $115. There is one in the New England ware house. Part # AR567



Anyone have any experience with this?

 

[Newf Limo]

Napa can will have the part tomorrow AM. $85 + tax. I guess I will give it a try and will post the results.



Weird, it's like I'm talking to myself. LOL

 

[PVanderlugt]

Weird, it's like I'm talking to myself. LOL[/QUOTE]



yep, nothing wrong with having a conversation with yourself, it when you start arguing with yourself is when you need to start to worry

pete

 

[mwilson]

Newf,

Shoot me your ESN and we'll have a look at the Cummins parts book.



Mike.

 

[GAmes]

Don't buy another set of cheaply made, overpriced Dodge relays!!! Here is a much better alternative.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...4-stanco-relay-fix-failed-heater-grids-2.html

 

[mwilson]

Dennis,

After reading GAmes post and looking at the pictures we have those relays at the dealerships, Freightliner uses them for starter relays.

If you want to do as the post suggests and just change the relays out then call my Westbrook store, ask for part number ESX 120 105112 2.

Sell for $13. 55 each.

Swing over and have a look, 10 Terminal Street in Westbrook.

They only have 1 on hand, I have 3 in Bangor. They can get another one from me and have it first thing Saturday morning if needed.



Let me know if I can help.



Mike.

 

[JJPage]

Don't buy another set of cheaply made, overpriced Dodge relays!!! Here is a much better alternative.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...4-stanco-relay-fix-failed-heater-grids-2.html

Dennis,

After reading GAmes post and looking at the pictures we have those relays at the dealerships, Freightliner uses them for starter relays.

If you want to do as the post suggests and just change the relays out then call my Westbrook store, ask for part number ESX 120 105112 2.

Sell for $13. 55 each.

Swing over and have a look, 10 Terminal Street in Westbrook.

They only have 1 on hand, I have 3 in Bangor. They can get another one from me and have it first thing Saturday morning if needed.



Let me know if I can help.



Mike.

WOW! You two really stepped up! Great Job helping a member out, Thanks!

 

[Sticks]

IIRC only both relays will activate below a certain temp, otherwise it is just one.

The PCM will show a code if one is bad.

 

[Newf Limo]

Ok... wow... there's some stuff to mull over!



ESN is 56678667 it took a half a cup of coffee to figure out what an ESN was before 7AM



GAmes, I had printed out you instructions yesterday IRT the Stancor method. I agree that it seems cheaper (by far) until you ad in the hours getting the supplies and making the kit. My truck lasted 11 years with the originals, and Maine can put a bit of stress on them (and everythiong else), so I just need quick at this point. Especially now that Sticks has confused the whole situation!



Yesterday it was in the high 20's when I was testing the relays. The truck was in the sun. That is the first I have heard that only one relay would come on unless it was cold enough.



So, now I wonder what caused my truck to crank only, an occasional chug, but no start at 22 degrees (above zero) early yesterday morning?!?!? My initial thought was gelled fuel. It is the same fuel I started the truck with, with no problem, a 10 degees the day before, and it had been sitting a few days. I run Irving Arctic Diesel. The best you will find. No additives, and have never used them. Now i don't know whether to replace the relays or not. NAPA ordered them already.



It is too warm out today to test the second relay.



I guess I will wait until the temp drops and try again. Maybe I will have time to make a bracket by then. Anyone have any photos of the actual bracket that GAmes designed? GAmes? I'm more of a visual person.

 

[Newf Limo]

Mike,

If it turns out I need to replace the relays afterall, I will make a bracket and take a look at those relays. Thanks for the support.



And that goes for everyone.

 

[GAmes]

I guess I will wait until the temp drops and try again. Maybe I will have time to make a bracket by then. Anyone have any photos of the actual bracket that GAmes designed? GAmes? I'm more of a visual person.

I didn't design it, but I modded mine like that. My truck went through two sets of relays before it had 200k. The first time it was in warranty. One or both of the relays stuck closed while my wife was in the grocery store and totally drained the batteries. The Newport News, VA dealership towed it in replaced the relays and gouged her for a pair of batteries because only the relays were under warranty#@$%! This fix only adds about 30 minutes to the job of replacing them.

 

[mwilson]

Here is the version that Freightliner uses, has a very nice bracket already made on it, I think I would throw the Dodge bracket away and mount these directly to the inner fender with sheet metal screws.

Or you could fold the tabs out on the factory bracket and set these into place, then fold the tabs back over.

Either way $13. 00 or so can't be beat!!!!

Once again, Part Number is ESX 120 105112 2 at any Freightliner, Western Star or Ex-Sterling dealer.

 

[Newf Limo]

:-laf Well Mr. Ames, I can certainly understand your extreme dislike for those relays! What a royal PIA. Your instructions printed out very professional looking. hmmmm, Newport News... I'm seeing Grumman in your background. (?)



Mike, those look excellent! I make things well out of wood, but my metal bending skills liiok like a 12 year old making his first go-cart. Hammer and vicegrips will fix anything.



One thing I may have neglected to post, is after I finally got my truck to start the other day, (with great difficulty and drain on my super-batteries) the heater grid was not cycling. No dimming of the dome lights, or drops in RPM and voltage. So that lead me to the Grids.



It is 35 degrees, I just started my truck, and all was normal. The grids were cycling just fine. I am wondering if I had some corrosion built up on the signal wire connections and by pulling them off and reinstalling them, i improved the connection. Tis better not be an intermittant electrical issue! Man I hate those!



So, wait and see I guess. Good lessons/info here for future grid issue recipients.

 

[GAmes]

hmmmm, Newport News... I'm seeing Grumman in your background. (?)

U. S. Army Transportation Center, Ft. Eustis (even uncle sam thinks it sucks). Permanant party there twice and several aviation maintenance test flight schools.



I wired the PCM out of the grid heater operation. The PCM provides a ground to the relay to activate them. The hot trigger wire is always hot. I brought a ground wire into the cab and hooked it to a toggle switch. I cycle the heaters before I start the engine while cold, and in very cold weather I might cycle it for a few seconds after the engine starts. Works for me.

 

[Sticks]

Have you done the Key on-off procedure to check for codes?