2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heater Hose Suggestions

[brn2fsh]

Hello,



I need recommendations on a good quality heater hose and clamps. I am talking about the two hoses the run from the engine to the firewall and go to the heater core.



Mine were leaking so I went to NAPA and bought regular heater hose and screw type hose clamps. I put these on and after several months I had a leak again. It is not a bad leak, just a few drops at a time. They leak where the hose connects to the metal tubing coming from the engine just above the exhaust manifold. I cleaned everything prior to putting on the new hoses so crud between the hose and pipe should not be an issue.



Thanks,



Scott

 

[Gene Arnold]

Are you sure it is the hose leaking and not the fitting itself? Look for a split, pitting, or if it is deformed.

 

[rweis]

I took out ALL the OEM heater hard lines a couple of years ago and replaced them with Gates hoses. Good quality.



Bob Weis

 

[brn2fsh]

Gene,



I will check the fittings, but I do not recall anything odd when I cleaned them up prior to putting on the new hoses. I will have to check closer for cracks.



Bob,



When you removed the hard lines and replaced them with Gates hoses, how did you route the hoses? In my 97, the hard lines pass directly over the exhaust manifold which is why I assume the hard lines were used. I don't think one would want to run rubber hoses in the same location.



Thanks,



Scott

 

[rweis]

Yeah, my hard lines were around the exhaust manifold too.



Let's see, cooling water threaded around the exhaust manifold?



In addition I really did not care for the rubber 90* bend pointed right at the alternator.



I come off the water pump and go over to the inside fender wall and use the fender wall as the contour to get back to the firewall and go into the heater core. I have an ETC and my ETC cooling line does the same thing.



When I come out of the ETC cooler and go back to the block I go in an unused plug under the alternator.



When I come out of the heater core I go into one of the water jacket threaded plugs over by cylinder 3&4. That hose comes out of the heater core and goes straight a brass 90* bend that goes down to the water jacket threaded nipple.



Nice big hoses (5/8" I think). Easy to get to, easy to change, easy to keep a check on. Nice sweeping bends so the water flow will flow well.



There was a thread about a water system filter that later seemed prone to crack and was not such a good idea for that filter in the end (GREAT idea though). Well RACOR makes a cooling system filter canister that screws onto a typical filter head. With the rubber hoses it will be easy to plumb into the water system.



Not OEM, but much more serviceable (like my ol 6 cylinder flat head Furd) and manageable.



Bob Weis



I rupture a hose in the middle of no where, I wrap the hose in duct tape, refill the water, loosen the radiator cap completely (no pressure), and go home safely , or just use some garden hose temporarially.

 

[brn2fsh]

Bob,



This sounds like something I would like to do. Do you have any photos? If you do, could you email them to me at -- email address removed --.



Thanks,



Scott

 

[rweis]

OK, I'll try to get some in the next couple of days. EMailing them works much better than posting here for me. have the hardest time trying to get the pics to upload here.



Bob Weis

 

[scotmartin]

Hello,



I need recommendations on a good quality heater hose and clamps. I am talking about the two hoses the run from the engine to the firewall and go to the heater core.



Mine were leaking so I went to NAPA and bought regular heater hose and screw type hose clamps. I put these on and after several months I had a leak again. It is not a bad leak, just a few drops at a time. They leak where the hose connects to the metal tubing coming from the engine just above the exhaust manifold. I cleaned everything prior to putting on the new hoses so crud between the hose and pipe should not be an issue.



Thanks,



Scott

Did you try simply tightening the clamps? When the rubber flattens from the pressure of the clamp, a leak develops because the clamp is now loose. It is a good idea to always recheck your clamps a few weeks after you install new hoses. I know this is rare, but I have had it happen.



Scot

 

[rweis]

Cardinal rule: No 90* bends unless it goes through a metal 90* fitting to change direction.



The rest of the routing use nice gentle sweeping bends so thehose stays full ID.

#1 out of the water pump

#2 across the fender cowl

#3 into out of the heat exchanger

#4 into out of the heat exchanger

#5 back to the firewall back to the engine

 

[georgej]

Thanks for the pictures, but what do you use to clean the turbo? Mine's the same color as the manifold

 

[rweis]

I use my next door neighbor to clean my turbo .



He runs a auto detail business and he just detailed the truck. Also my turbo is a S-300 (KSB1-B) with an aluminum compressor section. The turbo end is steel or cast iron and looks like the manifold too.



Bob Weis

 

[brn2fsh]

Bob,



Thanks for posting the pictures!!



Scott