Heater wont stay on......

[JSawtelle]

Host Camper with Suburban Propane heater.

After initial fire up... heater starts to kick out heat and then shuts off... .

will come back on after I tap on the main unit with a blunt object... LOL

Weird almost like there is a loose wire??

There is no access panel on the outside for servicing this heater...

looks like the only way for it to come out is from the inside which looks like a real pain.....

Has Anyone had this problem... ... ... ??????

John

 

[SHobbs]

I have a Suburban furnace and the control board went out causing the same symptom if I remember correctly. Might be what has happened to yours and yes it is a pain to get to but, not bad. Might be worth it to have a tech check it unless you can check it yourself.

In my fifth wheel there is a cover at the bottom of the cabinet that looks like a return air vent in a house, the heater is right behind it. Outside I had to remove the cover for the intake and exhaust, I think it was a couple of screws. The outside cover slides off the intake and exhaust tubes, they extend inward about four inches I think. Once the outside was off and the vent cover was off the heater slides right out, just watch for duct work that may be attached. As far as the control board it was a simple unplug the old and plug in the new. You will need your model number and serial number to get a new board and have the old one in your hand to make sure they match. I think the control board cost me $80.

 

[JSawtelle]

Thanks SHobbs...

 

[RonD]

A lot of them are powered by a auto reset circuit breaker, they fail a lot, try installing a new one, or check for power with a test light or volt gauge when it fails next time to see it that is it.

 

[Barry]

Another source could be the furnace exhaust ports on the side of the coach if not covered with wire mesh screen, dirt dobbers get in and build a nest. Then when the heater fires, it sends an overheat indication to the board and the heater shuts down until it cools off and then does again... ... ... and again.

Will do the same thing in a water heater.

mi dos centavos... ... ... .

 

[RVTRKN]

Remove the flame sensor and clean it with an abrasive pad, even if it looks clean. The technology it uses is called "flame rectification" and is sensitive to residue buildup. Of coarse you will have to pull it out, and I would bench test it before and after removal and cleaning. The classic symptom is, it will ignite and run for a couple of seconds then the flame will go out. It will attempt it several times until the trial period Programed in the logic will lock it out until the call for heat is off. When you call for heat again it will go through the same trial period.

 

[Blu-meanie]

I replaced he thermocouple/flame sensor..... whatever it's called..... fixed mine. Didn't cost much and for the trouble, I wouldn't install the old one after cleaning and adjusting the gap.

 

[RVTRKN]

I clean them all the time, that is why I recommend bench testing. Thermal couple's generate a small amount voltage (millivolts), the flame sensor (flame rectification) allows voltage (micro amps sensed) to travel through the flame that the Logic board can then prove there is flame and then allows the valve to stay open. The standard setup will have a rod that is positioned so the flame will cover the rod, that rod is solid. Unlike the thermal couple that jackets two different metals that when heated generates millivolts. If it is a thermal couple I recommend replacement due to difficulty of the job, but the flame sensor just needs cleaning or your wasting time and money.