Attention: TDR Forum Junkies In light of all the recent reports of problems with the new fuels, I’ve been looking into heating the fuel system during cold weather operations. There seems to be more interest in it now, talking between several threads, so I thought I’d start a new one addressing this. I specifically have a FASS, but this may apply to other fuel systems as well. I also have disconnected the stock fuel filter and by-passed it since I’m running with a FASS.
One consideration would be to route the line back through the stock filter housing to take advantage of the heater there. So if anyone has a stock, working fuel heater, who wants to test that out and post results, please fire away. I may get energetic and try that myself eventually at some time. Just trying to foster discussion and ideas to prevent future cold fuel problems since the new fuels are here to stay.
I’ve recently done a little "amateur" testing to see if the fuel system itself is heating the fuel in any way, or if a supplemental system would get the job done. I have been looking at either plumbing heat via a coolant line to the FASS unit as it’s designed, or electrically heating it somehow, which I have done here.
I weighted a probe on a digital thermometer and dropped it down the tank of my 2001. 5 2500 short box extended cab, 34 gal tank, and took some readings. For both tests the truck was cold soaked in an insulated, non-heated garage to start out. Just barely under the half tank mark for the first baseline run, a little less for the second, so the slightly less fuel in the second test is a variable to consider. But with the results, it still was effective for testing IMO. For both runs, done on different days, I used the same route and driving styles for standardization. The second day was about 10 deg F warmer ambient air temp, but again, after looking at the results you can see the effects that heating the water separator had. All temps are in Fahrenheit. OAT temps were slightly variable of course with the driving, so I averaged them best I could.
Baseline Test.....
-Pre-start fuel temp, same as ambient temp inside the garage------- +17. 8
-Started the truck and idled up to high idle
for 15 min, all cylinders, for 15 min OAT -5-------------------------------- +18. 9
-After 15 min of Hwy driving @ 55-60 mph OAT of -6
Fuel temp went between -------------------------------------------- +16. 3 to +20. 7
-15 mins of mixed Hwy and City driving ------------------------- +16. 0 to + 20. 7
-15 mins of City ------------------------------------------------------ +20. 3 to +22. 1
During the second test I attached a 150 watt stick on oil pan heater to the FS 1023 water separator. Since the water separator is prior to the filter, I thought that would work better to send the warmed fuel through the filter, and if you decide to build a "modded" separator for winter use, they are cheaper to purchase than the filters are. Warming the filter itself probably would have a similar effect I presume. I powered it on a 200 Watt Inverter. My archaic attaching system of duck tape and pipe insulation for the test leaves something to be desired, as it started to melt eventually. I think with the proper hose clamps and better insulation, it would have been even more effective, but sufficed well enough for my tests.
-Pre-start fuel temp, again, approx garage temp-------- +21. 7
-15 min high idle OAT +7 ----------------------------------- +22. 8
-After 15 min of Hwy driving @ 55-60 mph
OAT +7 ------------------------------------------------------- +22. 8 to +29. 1
-15 mins of mixed Hwy and City driving --------------- +27. 1 to +32. 2
-15 mins of City ------------------------------------------- +31. 8 to +34. 2
I have looked into these heated fuel lines, and also these fuel line heaters, just haven’t decided on what to do yet and thought I’d see what others are doing, or considering. Running a coolant line all the way back to the FASS seems like a lot of work as it would require valving to shut it off in warmer weather, and using a heating pad like I did here involves a lot of DC to AC electrical work that I am not good at. Any tips on anything would be appreciated. Thanks.
Ryan
One consideration would be to route the line back through the stock filter housing to take advantage of the heater there. So if anyone has a stock, working fuel heater, who wants to test that out and post results, please fire away. I may get energetic and try that myself eventually at some time. Just trying to foster discussion and ideas to prevent future cold fuel problems since the new fuels are here to stay.
I’ve recently done a little "amateur" testing to see if the fuel system itself is heating the fuel in any way, or if a supplemental system would get the job done. I have been looking at either plumbing heat via a coolant line to the FASS unit as it’s designed, or electrically heating it somehow, which I have done here.
I weighted a probe on a digital thermometer and dropped it down the tank of my 2001. 5 2500 short box extended cab, 34 gal tank, and took some readings. For both tests the truck was cold soaked in an insulated, non-heated garage to start out. Just barely under the half tank mark for the first baseline run, a little less for the second, so the slightly less fuel in the second test is a variable to consider. But with the results, it still was effective for testing IMO. For both runs, done on different days, I used the same route and driving styles for standardization. The second day was about 10 deg F warmer ambient air temp, but again, after looking at the results you can see the effects that heating the water separator had. All temps are in Fahrenheit. OAT temps were slightly variable of course with the driving, so I averaged them best I could.
Baseline Test.....
-Pre-start fuel temp, same as ambient temp inside the garage------- +17. 8
-Started the truck and idled up to high idle
for 15 min, all cylinders, for 15 min OAT -5-------------------------------- +18. 9
-After 15 min of Hwy driving @ 55-60 mph OAT of -6
Fuel temp went between -------------------------------------------- +16. 3 to +20. 7
-15 mins of mixed Hwy and City driving ------------------------- +16. 0 to + 20. 7
-15 mins of City ------------------------------------------------------ +20. 3 to +22. 1
During the second test I attached a 150 watt stick on oil pan heater to the FS 1023 water separator. Since the water separator is prior to the filter, I thought that would work better to send the warmed fuel through the filter, and if you decide to build a "modded" separator for winter use, they are cheaper to purchase than the filters are. Warming the filter itself probably would have a similar effect I presume. I powered it on a 200 Watt Inverter. My archaic attaching system of duck tape and pipe insulation for the test leaves something to be desired, as it started to melt eventually. I think with the proper hose clamps and better insulation, it would have been even more effective, but sufficed well enough for my tests.
-Pre-start fuel temp, again, approx garage temp-------- +21. 7
-15 min high idle OAT +7 ----------------------------------- +22. 8
-After 15 min of Hwy driving @ 55-60 mph
OAT +7 ------------------------------------------------------- +22. 8 to +29. 1
-15 mins of mixed Hwy and City driving --------------- +27. 1 to +32. 2
-15 mins of City ------------------------------------------- +31. 8 to +34. 2
I have looked into these heated fuel lines, and also these fuel line heaters, just haven’t decided on what to do yet and thought I’d see what others are doing, or considering. Running a coolant line all the way back to the FASS seems like a lot of work as it would require valving to shut it off in warmer weather, and using a heating pad like I did here involves a lot of DC to AC electrical work that I am not good at. Any tips on anything would be appreciated. Thanks.
Ryan
