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First want to say hello and a big THANK YOU to all the informative people here. What a resource this place is! I look forward to contributing whatever I can...



My new truck is approaching its first oil change at 3000. I do mostly in town, stop and start type driving, with quite a few shut-downs and low mile runs up and down hills. I do some highway driving, but not enough ;)



I have heard about synthetics for my situation, but was just wondering what the consensus ( if any ) is regarding the change, and which filter would be best.



Anyway, I look forward to being a part of this community and thank you in advance for any advice you can give!!!



Big Sur
 
oil and filter

my opinions:

1. synthetics are good. too early yet, by most thinking. change every 3k miles with a good organic oil (i'm using Rotella T 15-40), til you get 10,000-15,000 miles then switch to synthetic if you want to.

2. filter--use Fleetguard LF3894 stratapore filter. available at cummins stores, or from geno's garage, on line-www.genosgarage.com.

:)
 
Originally posted by BFC

Damn red,



one reply and you've killed the thread, nothing to add to that. :p



Glenn



Well, we could add one thing. Insofar as non-synthetic oils go, Chevron Delo 400 is a good alternative to Shell Rotella T. :)



Rusty
 
Yep - What they said and maybe a few more miles (15-20k) before going to synthetic since you don't tow.
 
rosmella

rusty... ... ... ... ... .

i like the smell of ROSMELLA!!! almost as good as diesel exhaust fumes. change the oil, and enjoy the smell for several hundred miles. (besides it is available at SAM'S):D
 
So, what about towing

So then, at say 15k miles and did change to syn oil, is it good or ? for towing. Towing and temps seem to be the point, and I thought syn is the best way to go not only for the engine but for everything because it lasts and holds up better. I am at 4500 miles and still a long way to go but its good to get the worries out of the way early. This is first diesel ever too.
 
filter

big sur:

it has been said that the original filter at the plant is installed by an out of sorts 500 lb gorilla. most have recommended a strap filter wrench, preferrably the type which usesa 1/2" socket handle to power. then a long breaker bar. mine wasn't too bad, got it with a bfpp (big funny pair of pliers) --slip joints about 2 feet long. also, remove the air hose from the airbox to the turbo inlet. stuff a rag in the turbo inlet to keep dirt out. that's a good time to remove the silencer ring in the neck of the turbo, if you haven't. also open the airbox, and lose the snorkel to the fender, to get more air to the airbox, if you haven't. some have had to remove the airbox to get the snorkel out, but i didn't. whilst my air box was off, a bfpt (big fun plastic termite) attacked the bottomn half of the box and ate about 6 or 8 bfh's (big fun holes) in the bottomn half. i didn't mind too much. . lets in more air. last two hints... ..... look at your alternator. the big B+ connection should be capped with a rubber cap. if perchance not, put some tape on it so you won't short it while you're changing the oil filter. blows a 140 amp fuse in the power center. that's a PIA. last ond--some tdr folks use a large --1 gallon or so zip-lock bag to put under the filter and around it after it's a little loose to catch the filter and the oil. pull it out , zip it shut, and dispose of.

sorry i got so long winded... ... ... .....

:(
 
Originally posted by CUMINNTSTRKN

big sur



you better eat your wheaties before you try to loosen that 1st filter.



jim



THATS NO JOKE!!!!! And make sure you have a really big pair of Channel loks around. Cause your gonna need them.



When I changed the oil in the wifes truck for the first time. I tried everything!!! Geesh, I thought that the filter was permanently attached. Until I called up Cryppie and asked him for a bit of help. He brought over a big'ole pair of channel loks and got that filter off for me.



Just be aware... . that filter is gonna be hard as heck to get off.



Kev
 
Re: filter

Originally posted by redneckdr



It has been said that the original filter at the plant is installed by an out of sorts 500 lb gorilla.



I guess he must have taken early retirement. I was dreading the first filter change on our 2002, but that sucker came right off with my trusty old strap-type filter wrench! :D



Rusty
 
2 more nft's

dang it i knew that in spite of the length, i'd forget something. two more nft's (necessary fun tips)--prefill the filter to at least 3/4 full and lower in carefully and start. twist backwards til it "clicks" then forward, should start easier. remember you are looking at it from above. clockwise looking from above will be backwards, and vice versa. last tip--be careful opening the oil cut the foil seal completely out, and get it out of the bottle opening. ther are a few posts of folks not noticing that a piece of the foil went in with the oil into the engine. obviously it immediately foes to the most sensitive oil port possible, and destroys some thing vital, thus the engine!!:(

i promise i'm done. I PROMISE!!!!:D
 
I have one other thing to add.



One of the best Ideas that I got off of the tdr is to put a big Zip Lok type bag over the oil fiter before you remove it completely. That way if the filter starts to leak oil, it goes in the bag versus the side of the engine or driveway. Just thought that I'd share.



Kev
 
I'm almost to 30K with changes every 3K, so I've done a few now.



A couple of points to share:



On the west coast Costco carries Delo 400. I like it also because I can always find it on the road at truck stops and at Chevron Stations (but I always carry extra oil and filters).



On removing the old filter: I've tried all of the suggestions, and all are good. What I've settled on was a rather traditional oil filter wrench that I got at Kragens. It's the round banded pinching type, but it is beefy and it has a pivoting point where the handle meets the band. Thus I can slip it on and angle the handle so as to leverage off the filter.



To brag... . My last change I didn't even take off the air tube to the turbo - I just worked around it. It was easy. And I finished the job with the baggie of course, and not a drop of oil hit the campground dirt. I was glad not to get caught! It is a real ***** to get an oil change done when you are on the road!
 
My oil job

I used a snap on oil filter wrench. Just enough room to work down behind and up around the filter. I moved it up to near the top and as you turn the wrench to tighten keep moving the handle to clear, then just turn off the filter. After loose I removed the wrench and put zip lock bag around. Getting the wrench on and off takes alittle time just to set up and around but it just clears the wires on the back lower side. It was harder to get the threads to start on the new one since it was filled with new oil. I think a good quaility tool about 1/2" wide would be perfect. Does any one know if there is a mac or snap on tool like tool out there. The brand would be great to know . Thanks
 
The plastic bag is the trick. . but watch those bolts on the clamps for the lower intake hose to the tubo. (or turn the to a different direction. ) Nuthing like poking a hole in the plastice bag. . to see the oil run all over the battery and the fender... :rolleyes:

Bryan
 
It is a real ***** to get an oil change done when you are on the road!

Yet another reason I'm willing to pay more for synthetics - the extended change intervals make it much easier to time changes so that they can be done in home port. May not work for retirees on the road 300 days a year, but works for me.



P. S. - I agree the second post was a good one, but I have never, no never, seen the TDR let an oil related post die after only one answer. :D
 
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