Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) HELP 12v Slug

[WadePatton]

I borrowed Dad's truck ('95 auto 4x4 2500) today. I'll have it for the weekend. It's a 160 pump, so I don't expect much, BUT it won't rev over 2250 and it was hard to start-like the heaters are out, then white/blue smoked for a while. I had to use the footfeed to get it started.



After I knocked 300 pounds of mud and cow dung off it at the car wash, the WIF light came on.



The fuel seems to slow down at 2000, and stop at 2200.



I'm planning on changing the fuel filter and checking the throttle linkage.



What else?



More details: Fuel gauge doesn't work, he's run it out several times. Turbo had a nice long spool down after I shut if off. Fuel shutoff solenoid doesn't work--now has manual push/pull PTO knob for off/on. transmission won't do a "passing gear"

shift. 137K on truck, always Rotella, never fuel additives.



Thanks.

 

[BillGotthelf]

Well you didn't say how many miles. If the fuel filter doesn't help you may want to check the lift pump. When they start to go out the power goes away untill it just won't go. I had one pump slowly lose power over 1,000 miles until it would barely go 30mph. Good luck.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Wade those RPM's sound about right I hate to admit. At least it was similar to my truck. It would run out of UMMPH about 2200, but you could "push" it to 2500.



Fact. Plate full fwd. gave me 2500RPM useage without problem, and 3K GSK made me very happy! Oo.



It was rather cold here today so I'm guessing it was around you too. I started my truck before I left work this afternoon to let it warm up since it had sat since 8AM and when I came back out it was blue smoking a little. I've noticed mine doing this a little since its gotten colder usually clears up and goes away though.



I'd change the fuel filter and check the connections at the heater grid to see if they are ok. I'd like to see his PTO conversion in case my solenoid ever craps out, already had the relay burn the contacts once.



If you got any questions call me (cell # is in your PM's)

 

[illflem]

It's not unusual for the WIF light to come on after washing, it's the connector shorting out, not water in the fuel.



Rpms sound right for a stocker.

 

[WadePatton]

Originally posted by illflem



Rpms sound right for a stocker.

But the redline is way over there at 3K. I pulled that sucker into L1 and it wouldn't rev. Is that really all the R's to expect without upgrades?



The umph is gone at 2k I had to push it to get 2200.



Oh well, where is that plate anyway?



And it may just need a relay. I don't know if that was checked before the manual shutoff went on. It's real cool, mounted on the hump almost under the center seat. Great anti-theft device.



When I get the shop built I'll gently BOMB it for him--heck he's still got a muffler on it!

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by WadePatton

But the redline is way over there at 3K. I pulled that sucker into L1 and it wouldn't rev. Is that really all the R's to expect without upgrades?



The umph is gone at 2k I had to push it to get 2200.



Oh well, where is that plate anyway?



And it may just need a relay. I don't know if that was checked before the manual shutoff went on. It's real cool, mounted on the hump almost under the center seat. Great anti-theft device.



When I get the shop built I'll gently BOMB it for him--heck he's still got a muffler on it!

Wade bring it by my house sometime and we can wake it up (in stock form) a little.

 

[JGK]

Overflow valve need replacing?

 

[DHRA]

That's it Wade. It sounds like it's a normal 95. The start up fuel sounds low, it may be time for new injectors or have them tested and cleaned, valves adjusted, and the pump needs to go on a stand. I'd put the GSK in it and set it up on normal to just above stock fuel. Maybe even put another degree or so in the timing for the higher revs.

 

[JJW_ND]

Full rack travel???/

This would not be something simple like not getting full throttle lever travel. It is pretty common on 12Vs. The last bit of pump lever travel accounts for allot of power and RPMS.



jjw

ND

 

[WadePatton]

1st, THANKS for the input

Now that sucker will barely hold 55mph on the hill where I try to race any/everybody. The 24v would do 80+ on that hill STOCK. I've been 90+ on it with the UFM.



Anyway. I took it back to the car wash and sucked 38# of crud off the floor.



Dad wants to "mildly" BOMB it. So I'll be "tuning" her up proper when I get the shop built.



Until then I guess she's just a slug and we'll live with it.



I will give it a thorough check up eventually. I'll pop the filter on today--took a few minutes to figure out how to drain it this morning. And it started fine this morning. I plugged it in. It had been sitting for over a week when I started it yesterday.



I finally did get it to downshift, but I had my arse off the seat and put my toe about 1/2 inch into the carpet.

 

[ronco]

Wade, sounds like you have your work cut out for you! I'm not the original owner of my truck, so I can't swear it's stock. It feels kinda poor at times though. I can rev to 2200 pretty easy, but above that, it takes all day to upshift and move faster. Now, out on the highway, I can open the throttle and attain 80-85 fairly easy, but not necessarily uphill. You should make sure the truck is running right before trying to make power mods (f. p. , overflow valve, clogged cat, etc... . ). That way, your mods will increase power and not create problems. HTH



ronco

 

[Smokin Dodge]

slug

I am pretty new at this diesel thing, but has anyone thought of the fuel shutdown sylenoid it maybe getting jammed up and not alowing full throtle. Mine did that.

 

[WadePatton]

Getting better

The more I hammer it with my LEAD FOOT. I was able to sustain 60mph up the hill today.



Haven't had time to dig into the other stuff.



The solenoid could be a problem. Like I said, it went out and has been bypassed. I also need to check the manual shutoff valve to make sure it's getting proper travel.



Fuel filter tomorrow. mebbe.



OH YEAH, new discovery. The engine shakes the truck at 900-1200 RPM. It's a gentle shake but very noticeable. Smooth as glass above 1200. Tried it P and N-same result.

 

[Deezul1]

It sounds like a loss of power problem if it wont go up a hill any faster than that. If thats the case then I would suspect the overflow valve and its easy to remove the spring and stretch it to . 550 and see if it helps any. I have cured 2 trucks with power loss problems by doing this and its easy. Otherwise put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see if it is getting at least 20lbs pressure from the lift pump.

 

[WadePatton]

okay where is the overflow valve?

It's not warm enough to ride yet, so I'll poke around on it a bit today.



Does the overflow have something to do with the fuel returning to the tank?

 

[crabman]

Wade,

If the truck still has the CAT, remove it and you will be surprised. My vehicle did the exact same thing. I put the CAT out and pick up 600 RPM and 1 mpg instantly.

 

[onestackdram]

i would check ALL of the rubber boots coming off the turbo, down to the cooler and back up to the heater. make sure they are tight and there are no leaks or holes in them. i just went through almost the same thing last week and had a loose clamp on the boot directly into the cooler.

 

[Deezul1]

Yes the overflow valve allows the excess fuel pressure over about 25lbs bleed off to the tank.

The overflow valve is in the banjo bolt attaching the return line to the injection pump. It is at the front of the pump at the top between the engine and the pump. Put a rag under the banjo bolt so as not to loose the sealing washers when they fall.

 

[WadePatton]

Found part of the problem.



This is the fuel that came out of the filter vs. fresh fuel. Guess which is which.

 

[BillGotthelf]

Where did that come from? Is there slime on the filter(algae)?