HELP!!! 3200 spring problem

[MPalmer]

Hey guys hows it goin? i just signed up but have been reading on here for a long time. ok i have a problem i put the 3200 spring in and did the AFC lever grind in the pump and got it all back on but now as soon as i start up the rpm's go way up without doin anything..... could it be that the full fuel screw is just in too far? so i wonderd if i turn the full fuel out some will it idle like it sould? or is it just the throttle shaft not set right?

it was fine before i did this and now its not. so i still have it tore apart :{ thanks for any help..... with PODs and full fuel screw all the way in i had so much smoke i could stop cars at lights :-laf just how much will it smoke now?

 

[bgilbert]

Way up and away then you shut it off, or up to a point then stops and holds? What rpm? Could be either or both the throttle lever not indexed correctly or the fuel screw in too far. You did put the lever back in the same position as before- the 2nd index mark right? Once you get that squared away, I'd back the fuel screw way out. And welcome to the TDR!

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Hi Michael, and welcome to the group..... I won't say what kind of group but you'll figure it out.....



Your problem sounds like the indexing of the throttle shaft. Just reindex the shaft clockwise ONE notch and try again... .



pastor bob...

 

[MPalmer]

thanks for the welcome and i think this is one of the best groups on here..... bgilbert... . yeah it goes Way up and away when you shut it off-dont know the rpm's cuz i dont have a tach... yet. when i took the thing apart the first time the shaft was set at the 3rd mark sould it be at the 2nd mark? i will go out and try to get it to work. thanks for the help

 

[MPalmer]

well i played with the throttle shaft tonight and no matter where i put it it would keep doin the same thing so i guess next i'll try the full fuel screw and see what that duz.

 

[Greenleaf]

The "incorrect" indexing was somebody attempting to correct for a weak governor spring. It works BTW. Anyhow, now that you HAD the pump set up with the OLD spring, and have installed a tighter NEW spring, you just threw all your previous adjustments out the window.



You gotta start all over again with the pump adjustments One thing is to re-index to the proper hash marks and another is to readjust that full fuel screw both of which play a major roll in engine speed (fueling). You'll be fine. Just think how much you'll have learned about the pump.



GL

 

[MPalmer]

Thanks for the help... . i have a real dumb question for yall-how do you get a full fuel screw out that broke off in the pump? :{ cuz after i turned it in it was leakin fuel so i turned the lock nut more... well you get the idea and can i just order a new one from a Bosch dealer and start over with the settings of it?

 

[rlyons]

You may have to pull the top off the pump and turn it from inside. If it is leaking it is the oring bad on it and all the tightening in the world won't help. I changed the oring on mine a few weeks ago. I don't remember for sure but it may extend enough to the inside to get ahold of it and turn it out. The threads do not go all the way through the housing so you can not turn it in to remove it and it will jam in the threads and freeze there if you turn it in too far.

 

[Greenleaf]

I would normally laugh at this episode (not you, the situation) but I have a serious question to further my knowledge.

How old is your pump? I mean miles. What I'm getting at is the fellows who report that they have the "fuel screw turned in ALL the way" have a higher milage pump or a weak pump. I'd like to know (for sure and for certain) if this is true or simply isolated.



There has got to be something that effects this. Some pumps cannot tolerate much in the way of a fuel screw adjustment. I have one that will not. Immenent runaway results.



You will find that the threaded portion of the bore that the screw is fitted is only threaded at the inner one half. The outter half is a smooth bore to accept the O ring that seals the screw. Or, in your case, WAS sealing the screw.



The screw will protude into and through the pump top. You'll have to remove the top and turn it back OUT if I understand you correctly in that it is broken off flush where the lock nut is located. Or, to prevent someone from stated that I'm wrong, remove it "somehow" by threading it back OUT by way of an extractor or the like.



Regards...



GL

 

[MPalmer]

Greenleaf yeah i do have higher milage on the pump but i dont know for sure the miles on it cuz the counter stoped working at about 265,000 so im guessing somewhere round 350,000 and on that full fuel screw i turned it in a few thousand miles back and at that time it came back to idle just fine but now that i have the new spring in there it started acting up... and it looks like where the screw broke off is at the o-ring

 

[bgilbert]

If you're lucky enough to have a diesel engine junkyard etc nearby, you could possibly find a 5. 9 b series with rotary pump there, and could obtain said fuel screw. Not likely, so next would be calling a Bosch authorized shop/distributor. I've had good luck with www.scheiddiesel.com for small odd and end Bosch parts.

 

[Greenleaf]

That is the likely spot as the dia. of said screw is necked down to accept the o ring. Just pick one up at the nearest dealer/injection pump shop.



I sota figured that you's have a high miler pump. I have one that's now @ 309k and another that is still somewhat fresh. I have been working with another member who's pump is suspected to be weak and I have the screrw in ALL THE WAY. No run-a-way.



The return to idle is something you have to watch out for. It's supposed to but you can set up an imbalance inside the pump where it will not.



I am suspecting the internal springs (plunger etc. ) are weak and will allow an agressive full fuel rate setting.



Scott