HELP!! - 911 - No A/C. Hoping to leave on vacation tomorrow.

[Royk]

Just in time for vacation, no A/C. I don't hear compressor clicking in and out. I have a 2006. Is there a fuse or relay, or something stupid I may be overlooking?

 

[Crunch]

Just in time for vacation, no A/C. I don't hear compressor clicking in and out. I have a 2006. Is there a fuse or relay, or something stupid I may be overlooking?

It may be low on refrigerant. I think the compressor is designed to not engage when it is low so it doesn't burn out. The right solution is to take it in for service and have it checked correctly. The easy "solution" would be to zip to Walmart and head to the automotive section. There you can buy a device that you can connect to a can of R134a (without leak sealer, dyes or anything else!!!!!) and charge your system. I think it's called an EZ something or other. This device is about $17, and buy the can or cans of refrigerant separately. You screw the can on to the device below the gauge, and connect the hose of the device to the connector located in the engine compartment, just below the windshield on the passenger side. Follow the instructions that come with the device and don't overcharge the system or you will blow your compressor. Do it on a hot day so the pressure will most likely always be lower. The new version has a range in a V-shaped set of hairs on the gauge, indicating the level to charge to depending on the ambient temperature. Obviously, the hotter the better because the hotter the outside temperature, the more pressure your compressor will have to endure. I try to do it on the hottest day of the year, at the hottest time of the day, but always only charge to the lower end of the mid range. I usually have to put in a can every 18 months or so, but have never had it so low the compressor didn't kick in. If, and I stress if this is your problem, you will probably need 1.5 - 2 cans of R134a. And if it's the problem, your compressor will kick in as you are filling when it reaches the minimum threshold pressure. I think the directions are to get your truck to operating temperature, turn you AC on recirc, max fan and take the temperature of the vent air from the center vents. Good luck.

 

[MLee]

If you do as Crunch suggest follow the instruction closely. connect The hose to the fitting, charge the hose, then connect the can, set for the temp of the day. and then check the charge. I just connected mine and it still did not work. Didn't follow the instruction closely. Went to Tunex, he measured it, drained it and put back in the proper amount. about an hours time and its worth it to have it done right. why guess with it.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Not sure where you got the hotter is better but that is incorrect, max recommended out side temp is 85 degrees unless you have a fan blowing over the condenser. hotter outside temps means the compressor pressures are higher. Overcharging any ac system is not only very bad but causes major damage to the compressor, also overcharging will not allow the heat to exchange and your ac still will blow warm. If you do it yourself buy the kits with a pressure gauge, prices run about $30 to $40 and are reusable. Very simple to use, attached to low side, start motor, set ac to coldest setting, set to inside recycle, and fan on high, set dial on gauge to outside temp (this will give you a green zone for correct pressure) attach R134A can (don't over tighten) pull trigger enough to read, IF pressure is BELOW the green zone on gauge add 134A by fully pressing trigger and shaking the can at the same time until pressure is in the green zone, if memory serves 30 to 40 psi for low side. IF pressure is above green zone STOP!!!! do not add anything, disconnect line from port, go to a good mechanic. ALSO VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT REMOVE 134A CAN FROM GAUGE until it is empty save it for later!!!!
I may have missed something so others please chime in.
Kyle

 

[Crunch]

Not sure where you got the hotter is better but that is incorrect, max recommended out side temp is 85 degrees unless you have a fan blowing over the condenser. hotter outside temps means the compressor pressures are higher.

That was my point. If you charge to the low end of the recommended pressure range on the hottest day, the pressure will never rise into the danger zone. If you charge to the high end of the recommended pressure range on a cooler day, the pressure will increase when the days get hotter and may exceed the high end of the range.

 

[Bob4x4]

The compressor is powered by the TIPM on the 06.If the A/C clutch requires too much current to engage, the tipm shuts off the power to protect the circuit.with out having gauges or a scanner you will be just guessing.With a scanner that can read pcm data you can see the high side pressure.With that info you will have a better idea where to go next

 

[Royk]

Thanks to all. I already have an unopened can of R-134, a guage and hose from my previous truck. The guage reads 0 to 200 psi. It's green from 0-25 psi, light blue from 25-45 psi, yellow from 45-65 and red the rest of the way. The guage reads 0 as it sits and when connected to low side on running truck. There are instructions on the can that refer user to read instructions with hose/guage. I no longer have the instructions for the hose/guage though.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Zero pressure is not a good sign, possibility of two things leak or a bad gauge. Add freeon the same way as I stated but watch the gauge and watch for your compressor to cycle, it show increase in cycling as pressure builds. If compressor doesn't speed up in cycling close off you freeon shut the motor and listen for leaks. Common places for leaks, bad Schrader valve at test ports and bad o-rings at condenser. Do not use stop leak, any shop knows that ac stop leak messes up their equipment and properly will not work on your ac system because of it.

 

[MLee]

Go to www.acprocold.com and look for the instructions for doing this task. As I pointed out above connect the hose first without the can attached. Get a reading on the gauge before attaching the can. ---Stop and think about the AIR you have in that hose before you pull the trigger!!!! If you attach the can It (air)has to go some where--inside the refrigerant line I didn't follow the instructions and I put air into the line. Its easy to do IF you don't read the words one by one, get in your mind first for you act.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

Sounds like good advice, I work part time at Autozone and we sell a ton of AC Pro but follow the directions. Also a sign of high pressure on the low side is it is hard to connect to the low side port( pressure on the low side will be around 75 psi with the compressor not on with a fully charged system), be sure to support the line when you connect, putting it on like in the commercial is asking for a broken line .

 

[Tuesdak]

0 PSI on a cheap gauge is a bad sign. As said above gauge/connector is bad or you lost a lot of freon and an unknown amount of oil. If the system is truly "0" you have a major leak and likely air in the system.

The charge it yourself cans are a BAD IDEA!!! They are a get you home in AZ 115+ degree weather compressor life be dammed and expect to replace the AC system when you get home. Not a way to start a trip.

These systems are charged by weight. That means you recover any freon in the system, pull a hard vacuum, fix any leaks, and charge the system by weight. If you had a major leak like a hose blow you are adding oil to the system as well as replacing the accumulator.

Using the AC charge can is a blind guess. Too low of freon and the oil stays in the evaporator, the compressor grinds itself up and expels metal into the system. Replace condenser, compressor accumulator, orface tube, and flush system.

These systems require a flooded evaporator to work properly. That is the evaporator is full of liquid freon with some liquid spilling out into the accumulator. This brings the oil out of the evaporator otherwise when low the oil stays in the evaporator. You got a 1/4 to 1/2 LB to work with depending on the OEM's built in leakage reserve and accumulator size. Too much liquid from overcharge causes poor performance and overwhelms the accumulator to where liquid reaches and ruins the compressor. (Washes oil off moving parts and liquid slugging breaks reed valves.) Too much freon and the system doesn't work well, pops the high side relief valve off that also looses oil, and can slug the compressor into submission from liquid return from the overflowing accumulator.

Even the dealer only charges $100 per hour +parts +R134A. A $50.00 can of 'guess the freon level' is half that rate and can damage an easy $1000.00 in parts plus labor.

The best way to "do it yourself" is:
1) Have shop recover the AC system unless it's empty.
2) Rent vaccum pump and gauge set. Leak detector may also be needed.
3) Fix leaks and replace high and low side service valves. (Service valves leak often so it's best to just replace them every time you take an AC system down.)
4) Vacuum system for 30 min - any less will let water remain in the system and is simply taking shortcuts.
5) Wait 10 min to make sure system holds the vacuum - fix leaks if it doesn't.
6) Charge system by weight this means use the 12 oz cans to add up to the system capacity and use a postal scale to make sure the correct amount gets in.
7) Check for leaks one last time to verify repairs and all leaks are fixed.

If the system lost oil that's a complete nightmare to make up for. Too much oil will hurt performance and too little burns the compressor up.

In depth AC info:

http://www.4s.com/upload/Four Seasons/Documents/Air Conditioning Diagnosis Service and Repair V2.pdf

I don't mean to get on anyone's case here, but, there is a proper way to do AC to get the best performance and life out of it. In some cases the tools and expertise of an AC shop is the cheapest solution even if you replace the parts yourself and have them do the R134A evac, vacuum and after repairs, and the final R134A charging.

 

[Motorhead]

I don't know how you figure that the EVAPORATOR has to be flooded to be working properly. The evaporator, inside the HVAC inside the cab, is after the expansion valve which transforms the HIGH pressure to low pressure through the sized orifice tube. The expansion valve turns liquid into a gaseous state by pressure differential from the high side to the low side. When the liquid expands to a gas, it turns cold inside the evaporator. The whole system doesn't hold enough liquid Freon to "Flood" the evaporator with liquid. They're are charts that show what the STATIC pressures should be at certain ambient temps. This can be checked on the LOW side without the system running. With R134a, the best inside temp out of the center vent is about 50 degrees. You can loose oil also if you have a leak. Check around the compressor clutch and see if it has oil and dirt buillt up around the back of the clutch between the clutch and compressor body. This means that the shaft seal is leaking. Also check at where the lines connect to one another for the same residue. If there is oil, you have a leak. The compressors on the third gens are at the low point and unfortunately, the way the system is designed, they can and do hydro lock to some degree on the first start of the compressor. This is hard on them. I have already replaced the compressor on my 2007, 5.9. I went through the whole system myself, replaced with a NEW compressor, flushed the condensor, evaporator and lines, replaced the oriface tube and receiver drier/accumulator. I switched from R134a to Duracool non CFC refrigerant and I run 40 degrees at the center vent on 90 degree days.

 

[PWong]

The right amount of liquid (100%, low pressure) should be metered to the evaporator by the fixed orifice tube.
The evaporator should be full of a mixture of saturated liquid and vapor.
The vapor(100%) leaving the evaporator should be just superheated.

All liquid entered the evaporator should be vaporized before leaving the evaporator.

 

[Crunch]

With R134a, the best inside temp out of the center vent is about 50 degrees. You can loose oil also if you have a leak.

Since my truck was new, the temperature coming out of the center vent (driver side, center) pegs right on 40* when rolling at speed, both fresh air and recirc. On the downside, I never got TSB 18-043-03 done under warranty, so when I'm running the AC on fresh air it goes up when I stop and let it idle. On recirc it still pegs at 40* at stoplights.

 

[Tuesdak]

To clear up expansion valve and orifice tube are two completely different system designs with regard to some liquid freon leaving the evaporator or not and how they handle the oil return to the compressor. The Accumulator handles the liquid overflow from the OT systems and the TXV, expansion valve, systems do not have liquid freon leaving the evaporator and don't have the suction accumulator. The liquid leaving in the OT system is critical to oil flow where the more forgiving TXV systems don't need or depend on it.

Our OT design makes the charge level critical and the temperature charts more or less worthless for determining the correct freon level in the system. The charts are for diagnostic purposes only.

Duracool is illegal in some states - I'd love to use it but the same "stupid" that banned R12 is worse in some states...

 

[B.G. Smith]

Hope you get your unit going. Take some of these suggfestions with a grain of salt, no, make that a block of salt. Just saying. Good luck. bg

 

[Royk]

Looks like I'm screwed. Dumped a can into the system and still no compressor. Now I have to take the little s***box Subaru Forester. And I believe I broke some ribs Friday night, so I'm not a happy guy right now. Oh, and currently unemployed, so it's gonna be a cheapo "vacation".

 

[Royk]

A new compressor is not an expense I need right now.

 

[PWong]

The guage reads 0 as it sits and when connected to low side on running truck.
Are you sure the system was empty???
Without this piece of info everything posted is salt.

 

[PWong]

Dumped a can into the system and still no compressor.

What's the gauge reading???