Archived HELP - Big problem

[Mactruck]

I've justed started working on installing a Painless wiring harness to add some accessories. I first disconnected a High power fuse for my Amplifiers, I then went to disconnect the battery, while I was doing this the pigtail for the amplifier fuse came in contact with the brakeline. It sparked as expected but upon inspection I arc-welded through it and it started seeping brake fluid.



I'm in trouble here guys. I can't drive it and I need to order a new brake line. Luckily It's a short one and not one that goes to the brakes. There is one thing I am not comfortable working on is brakes. It's also 4th of July weekend so time is of the essence.



I posted pics. The screwdriver is pointing to the arc weld and the damaged brake line. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=1643&width=0 https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=1644&width=0



Any help would be appreciated. This includes part numbers!



Thanx guys,



Kevin

 

[Straight6Jeff]

Hey Kevin,



Where does the brake line go to?



If you have no luck finding the part at a dealership, you can probably bend a new line yourself.



You can take the line off (plug the holes with some plastic caps that come in new brake parts, you can pick some up at pep boys or other part stores). Once you get the brake line off, take a piece of string and trace the line from end to end, so that you have a rough length. go to the parts store, pick up the closest lenth line, but go longer. Also pick up a line bender (die type, only $5-10). You can bend a new line up by tracing the old one. If you only have a few extra inches, you can re-route the line to take up the lenght. If it is way long, you can pick up a double flare kit, cut the line, double flare it and make an exact duplicate of the old line.



If you don't feel comfortable doing this, Take the line off, plug the holes, and bring the line to a shop so that they can bend you a new line. Most garages will do this.





Before all of this, go the store and get some beer. Sounds like you need it.



Really, it is not to bad of a fix, just sounds it.



JEff

 

[K_Arts]

Kevin,



I dunno what type of local parts stores you guys have, but I know our local AutoZone has many different sizes of brake lines and they will bend them for you. Or maybe you can cut that small section off and just use a piece of rubber hose until you can get down to the local stealer.



Kev

 

[JHansen]

No rubber hose! Unless it's just to keep brake fluid from dripping on the paint anymore..... the 1st time you stepped on the brakes you'll either blow the hose to bits or push the line out of it-hydraulics at work!



But like the others have said any decent auto parts store should have a pre-made length with the correct ends that you can get in there.



Jason

 

[Thomas]

If you are near a Mopar parts counter, try:



P/N 5003307AA TUBE, Brake Module Jumper Front

 

[CPFF]

Brake line

Kevin

If you don't make out with that line, call me. I have lines and the tools to make up custom lines. I'm going to HTFD. in the morning but will be back after lunch.



John

 

[BSoldie]

Mactruck,



If I were you, I would follow Jeff's advice. His idea of using a piece of string to measure the length is very thoughtful. I always used to just eyeball the line and cut the it to the length I needed it to be with a small pipe cutting tool. You'll find that flaring brake lines is very easy to do. If you can't find the pre-made line from either a parts store or dealer, bending a new line is pretty simple too. Remember that it isn't entirely necessary to get the exact factory bend ( although close is nice) when you are routing a replacement line. Good luck and I'm looking forward to seeing you in Maine on the 13th.

 

[Peter Campbell]

If it is one of the short ones to a proportioning valve or whatever and not to a brake "T" it may have special ends. I have run into that on the master cylinder fittings. Go to a store that has the double flaring tool available to use or buy. You may need it to reuse "proprietary" ends. Sorry to hear about problem- bummer. Good luck

 

[willyslover]

Kevin. . send me an address at

-- email address removed --

I have a donor rig at my home... I'll peel it off and send it to ya overnight. .

Gary

PS. . donor rig is a 98. 5 3500... I assume they are the same

 

[Mactruck]

Thanks for all your help.

I brought the line to a friend of mine's shop. He looked at it, and deducted that it wasn't that bad of a cut and brassed it for me.

It should hold up. I'm going to re-install it tonight and try to bleed the system throught the line to avoid bleeding the entire system. Hopefully this will work I would hate to have to bleed the whole system.



I really appreciate all your responses. It's great to see all of you rally around a member with a problem.

 

[Timinator]

I would still replace it.

 

[Mactruck]

I'm still debating that. Like I said when it comes to brakes I'm not to knowledgeable.



The problem he saw is that it uses a new type of end (double flare end I think) that takes a special tool and a real PITA to make.



It's not installed yet so tell me your Honest Opinion.

 

[CTRam]

Kevin, You know you won't be happy, or feel at ease until it is done the right way.



I'd do it the right way the first time around and be done with it.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

A double-flare is NOT special... . it's pretty much standard issue and can easily be made with a double flaring tool kit (good ones go for less than $50... or just borrow one).



Take pics of the 'brassed' line... . at the fittings end... if they're both the same just take a pic of one end... . both the fitting itself as well as with it pulled back a bit so we can see the type of flare it uses on the line itself.



Most U. S. manufacturers use 1/8" double-flare fittings and they're easy as pie to identify.



Simple fix, but a PITA.



See if you can borrow a brake bleeder that pulls out the fluid through the bleeders... . Phoenix makes a nice one... . I have used them and they work a lot better than the traditional Coke bottle and piece of rubber hose technique. The suction method is also recommended for many ABS systems as the flow of the fluid is similar to actual operation and has less worry of fluid contamination.



HTH,



Matt

 

[Mactruck]

Pic of Brakeline

Here is that Pic of the brakeline. You can see the type of ends used and the brass on the lower left side.

I have decided to get it replaced. Alot of people have commented both here and through email & PM's that they wouldn't use the fixed line either.



Brake line pic



You guys are the best!

 

[willyslover]

Kevin. . we're good to go. . it will be in the ups overnight today. . I'm sending both top and bottom one. . as you need to stretch then a little to get off... not a biggie to reposition. . just be careful to start the nut very carefully. . several threads in by fingers before you tighten with a wrench and not strip them.

 

[Bob Wagner]

clap clap clap

Way to go Gary

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Instead of: "The check's in the mail... . " We dieselheads say: "The parts are in the mail... . "



The fix is forthcoming... .

Way to go guys!



Matt

 

[willyslover]

correction Matt. . "pay it foward" is our term

 

[HoleshotHolset]

:-laf