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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Help! Cruise is dead and i cant fix it!

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Cracked Drivers Door

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Okay guys, heres a real brain teaser. I have a 99 3500 2 wheel drive, it has a 5 speed behind the engine, and 3. 55 gears (Not that it matters). This truck has never had cruise control since i bought it, and i would like to figure out why. Here is what i've figured out so far:



1) Cruise Control Light Does not Illuminate

2) The vacuum hoses are perfect under the battery tray

3) The brake switch appears to function normally by testing with a meter

4) The clockspring is fine, i just replaced it trying to fix the cruise

5) Its not just the bulb, the cruise really doesn't work (sorry guys)



I am absolutely stumped on this one, i cant get anywhere on it. Any suggestions or tests that can be done, i would be very grateful. As much as i hate to say it, i'm about ready to take it to the stealership and get the thing fixed, but i hate to see what the pricetag for something like that runs.



I'm all ears



Jake
 
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Views!

Aww, cmon guys, all these views and nothing to help me out? I'm seriously frustrated here :confused:



Time to go throw more tools thru the garage door :-laf



Just takin it back to the top

Jake
 
Fuse ??

#1 have u checked your fuses ? #2 While replacing the clockspring did you forget to plug it in ? #3 do you have power getting to the on/off switch ??



Other than this you'll have to wait until tomorrow so i can look up a wiring diagram on the computer and see how this thing is set up.

BTW is your old clockspring going up for sale in the near future, i need one and don't/can't pay dealer cost for it.



How good are you at wiring, on a scale from 1 to 10, 10 highest? and please be honest.



Curtis



By the way you're describing this truck, it sounds like the switch itself is faulty. i'll let you know more tomorrow.
 
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Thanks for the response! To answer your questions"



1) Yea, probed every fuse i can find on the entire truck, they're all just fine.

2) Nope, didn't forget to plug in the clockspring, everything worked out just fine

3) I'm not sure where at the on/off switch there should be power, the wires seem to be

multiplexed in some sort of a way (2 wires for 2 switches).



As far as selling the clockspring, it might be up for sale, ill have to look it over and make sure i

didnt break it or something taking it out.



How good am i at wiring? I'm pretty good i guess, i have a degree in computer engineering

which is pretty wiring intensive, i can follow things pretty well. On a scale of 1 to 10 i would

have to say probably 8 or so.



Jake
 
Jake i'll definately look into the problem with your truck tomorrow, i need a wiring diagram from the shop computer. To be totally truthful with you, it sounds like a bad on/off switch, or bad computer. We'll get to the bottom of it.



Later

Curtis
 
The PCM runs the cruise control on that truck You can see all the switch inputs with a diagnostic scanner. You can also trigger the cruise actuator with most scanners. Any chance you know someone that owns one? It'd be much easier to figure out that way.

Joe
 
Mine is dead too but my light illuminates so I would not think the fixes posted here will be applicable, but maybe.
 
Scanner

As a matter of fact i do have a diagnostic scanner, it will trigger the cruise actuator, but it is something that you cant do going down the road on my scanner. As far as watching the cruise inputs, i cant see that any of them do anything on the scanner screen, they dont change state according to my scanner.



Jake
 
Hi Jake,

If you can trigger the actuator then the PCM is OK and the actuator is probably OK. If none of the cruise data changes when you push the buttons then the cruise on/off switch is the first place I wold look.



Joe
 
I too have no cruise but my light comes on at wheel as somebody else stated above. I believe on ours it is vacuum? Anybody shed some light on somewhere to start.
 
I had problems with my cruise and got no replies here when I asked about it. This is what I learned. Switch assembly is in stock and $60. 00 at stealership. Only reasonable priced part they have ever had. I didn't have the $60. 00 so I took mine out and washed it out with contact cleaner and it has worked perfect ever since.
 
Ttt

Okay, update guys, i replaced the switch on the steering wheel, so now we've replaced that, also the clockspring, and the actuator will turn on with a scanner but not by the switch, i guess im up the creek without a paddle on this one .....

what next?



Jake
 
Abs

As a matter of fact, this is an ABS truck. There is indeed a sensor on the rear diff, and i have no clue whether or not it is working. Anybody know a way to test this, or maybe theres a parameter in the MT2500 snap on scanner i can look at to see if it is properly working?



Just a thought, is that also the vehicle speed sensor? if so, then that idea is out, because my speedometer still works.



Jake
 
You Need To Check Your Wiring From The Clockspring To Pcm For Continuity, I Have Had Several Trucks Come In And No Cruise Lamp And Wiring Is Broken On Steering Column Due To Tilting Up And Down And Wires Are So Small Of Gauge.
 
It's electrical check for power coming from stoplight swith. On pin three of the connector going to the speed control servo check for 12 volts. Then press the brake pedal the voltage should not be present. When looking at the connector end of the cable with the pins on top count left to right to find pin 3. Do it with the ignition swith on.

Calvin
 
Pinout

DCTECH, could you tell me what wires to check continuity vs. what pins at the PCM connector? im assuming by PCM you mean the one up near the airbox? ill check the wires in the steering column as best as i can, but a pinout or such would be helpful... ... . thanks in advance



Jake
 
Update

Okay guys, update, there is NO power on pin 3 of the connector for the cruise servo, i guess the next thing will be to try a brakeswitch? In any case there should be power there according to all sources, maybe a continuity is in check.



Feel free to throw any ideas out there that you have.....



Jake
 
Another Update

Okay guys, at the brakeswitch the blue wire with the red tracer seems to be the one with continuity to the cruise servo, with that said, there is a yellow wire with a red tracer next to it that i beleive should have the voltage that will be provided to the blue/red wire when the brakeswitch is NOT depresssed. Now with THAT said, there is never, never, never any voltage present in that yellow/red wire under any condition.



Does that get my anywhere?



Jake
 
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