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[Diesel Dummie]

Ok, i have put one used vp-44 on this truck and i just bought a new one fro II put it on and no go truck will crank and crank but no fire on its own, i tow it down the road and it will fire right up and run fine. Shut it off for not even 10 minutes and just crank and crank again. I have good fuel PSI, new overflow valve all connections are tight, new vp-44, but it still will not start on its own. would ecm cause this.



DD

 

[rkressg]

Almost sounds like some type of air leak causing the VP44 to loose its prime.

There is a T-Fitting on the fuel return lines (back right side of engine compartment) that sometimes comes loose. Try gently tightening these fittings up.

After changing the VP44, you will get air into the fuel system, which can take a little while to get completely out, causing hard starts for the first 5 or 6 starts.

If you pulled the injectors, you might have one that is not completely sealed. I would re-pull them and replace the copper washers on the bottom.

Re-Check all your fuel lines for any signs of leaks. Just as a note, do not check for leaks with your hands while the engine is running, the fuel pressure is extremely high, and will cut your skin. Use a piece of cardboard around the high pressure fittings.

There could also have been something internally wrong with the used VP44 you installed.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Is it a manual trans?

When you are towing it down the road I take it you are putting it in gear to get it started.

You can bleed air out the system by opening one to three injectors line (at the injectors) at a time closing them when fuel come out of lines.



Going back to starting is your starter turning fast enough?

Are batteries/connections up to par?

Is starter up to par?

 

[Diesel Dummie]

I can get fuel at the injectors no problem, i had it pop a few times, but i killed the batteries so i towed it again, but once i got it running, and shut it off for only ten minutes it wont fire up, it will crank over like it has two brand new batteries in it, so fast it will move the tach, so im thinking it is electrical somewhere like a cam or crank sensor or even the ecm.

 

[WDimig]

if you can get it running, and running normally, meaning no misses, no smoke, then you should have no air in the system, now you say that you can shut it down, and try to restart, and the engien just cranks, then you still are getting air in the system, some kind of drain back, if you have a stock fuel filter canister, pull top off, and check the oring, if it is cracked, or even cut, it may not leak fuel, but it may let air in the system, seen it happen. did you replace all of the fuel banjo sealing washer that you removed?, i try to never reuse these cause they can give you problems also with air getting in the fuel system, and finally, cycle you key three times, and check your odometer, if there is stored faults in the pcm, or ecm, they will display, if there are , write them down, and check what the fault is on here in the 911 forum generic obdII thread, it has a list of all the faults that can be displayed. good luck! let us know what you find.



wes

 

[Diesel Dummie]

every washer i took off got new, every time, checked canister but did not look at oring, ill do that to, could the ignition switch do this in the start position, i think ill try jumping solenoid and see if that is it, i will try anything at this point. DD