2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission HELP!!!!! I screwed up.

[ESwartzer]

I was changing my brake fluid the other day and wasn't watching closely to the level in the master cylinder and before I knew it the resevoir was empty. I added fluid anyway and bled the brakes like nothing happened but now when I hit the brakes hard, it pulls strongly to the right and nothing I do seems to get rid of it. What happened, and what can I do to correct the problem? Thanks!

 

[Joe Mc]

Bleed, bleed, bleed. Right rear, left rear, right front then left front. Got some air in there somewhere still. Of you can take it to a shop for power bleeding.

You should create a signature so we know what you're driving / working on.

 

[fest3er]

I was changing my brake fluid the other day and wasn't watching closely to the level in the master cylinder and before I knew it the resevoir was empty. I added fluid anyway and bled the brakes like nothing happened but now when I hit the brakes hard, it pulls strongly to the right and nothing I do seems to get rid of it. What happened, and what can I do to correct the problem? Thanks!

You might've gotten air in the left-side brake lines. Basically, bleed the lines again just as thoroughly. I think the correct order is right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front (longest to shortest).

[EDIT: correcting the order; it should be longest to shortest. ]

 

[BHanna]

I've always thought it was longest to shortest for bleeding. Do you have ABS? If more bleeding doesn't do it, you may have air in the ABS system. When the dealer bleeds those, they're supposed to hook up the DRB and cycle the solenoids to flush them.

 

[Texis]

Get a helper!



Have a buddy watch the level and add as required... while you bleed, bleed and bleed some more.

 

[fest3er]

I've always thought it was longest to shortest for bleeding... .

I was afraid I had it backward. Early-onset CRS, you know.



I've corrected my post.

 

[SHobbs]

I picked up one of these not to long ago, makes bleeding the lines a snap. It works exactly as they say it does. Did the truck in less than 20 minutes, even did dads Ford Ranger with the right adapter. Now I don't have a reason to not do it on a regular basis.



Pressure Brake Bleeder

 

[ESwartzer]

I have a 98 1/2 4x4 Quad cab . Ive bled the brakes over and over again to no avail, it still pulls to the right. So it must be air in the ABS system. Is there any way I could bleed that system myself or does it have to go to the dealer for service? I have seen that flush kit that uses pressurized fluid and a tight fitting cap to the master cylinder, could that be used?

 

[Skydiver]

How many miles have you drove it since this happened?
I have not had your problem, but the reason I ask is what happens if you allowed brake fluid to cover the disc. If it's pulling to the right your left brake is failing. Be careful.

 

[kenny61]

The rubber line going bad can cause a similar situation

 

[BHanna]

I have a 98 1/2 4x4 Quad cab . Ive bled the brakes over and over again to no avail, it still pulls to the right. So it must be air in the ABS system. Is there any way I could bleed that system myself or does it have to go to the dealer for service? I have seen that flush kit that uses pressurized fluid and a tight fitting cap to the master cylinder, could that be used?

It may or may not be air in the ABS system but the service manual (for 3rd gen - I assume it's the same) says you should cycle the ABS actuators while bleeding. As far as I know the dealer's scan tool is the only one that will do that. I don't think there's anything wrong with replacing the fluid without cycling the ABS actuators (I've done it) but you'll have to decide if you want to take it to the dealer to let them try the service manual procedure. It may or may not work.



Since you're asking about the pressurized bleeding system, can we assume you bled the brakes by using the brake pedal? I'm not a fan of that method because if you push the pedal to the floor it causes the master cylinder piston to hit parts of the bore that have never been used and are corroded. This damages the seals on the piston which gives you internal leaks and it can also dislodge debris that can get stuck in a line. It's possible that's what's happened.

 

[JohnBoy5]

i had air in my ABS system, this might have jsut been pure stuipd luck but i was so mad i started the truck and with it sitting still i pushed the brake pedle to the floor. you will hear the abs system start to do its thing. i cycled it a few more times. after that the brakes work great and no more pulling. Maybe someone that knows more about the system can elplain why this fixed my proble. or like i said might have jsut been plain stupid luck..... thats my 0. 02 cents

 

[JMcCoy]

Did you get brake fluid in one side of the front pads? Any fluid or grease on a pad or rotor will ruin the pad. They will then have to be replaced. Good luck.

 

[ESwartzer]

Thanks guys I ended up bringing it in to the dealer and they used the scan tool to cycle the solenoids to bleed the air out. All is well with the brakes now, but it galls me to have someone else do my maintenance for me!

 

[Matt42]

I picked up one of these not to long ago, makes bleeding the lines a snap. It works exactly as they say it does. Did the truck in less than 20 minutes, even did dads Ford Ranger with the right adapter. Now I don't have a reason to not do it on a regular basis.



Pressure Brake Bleeder

Ditto that. Until recently, I was using a bleeder outfit purpose-built in 1939 for a 1940 LaSalle, but with an updated master cylinder reservoir fitting. Can't say I didn't get my money's worth out of it, but it was flaking off internally. The Motive is a good product and not expensive.