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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Help me fix my transmission

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) RASP w/relocated LP

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Ok, I'm trying to decide how to best fix my situation. My truck is a 2000 2500 4x4 with a little over 150,000 miles and the transmission has been slipping for a while now. Originally it wasn't bad. Light throttle with a load is when it happened. It had a Van Aaken box at the time. A new transmission filter and fluid change cleared it up for a few months. It comes back late last year. I do transmission fluid and filter again, and it helps but not near as much. Now it's getting bad. It only slips when the tc is locked up. It's the worst under acceleration after slowing down behind a car to about 25 or 35 mph and anytime I'm low in rpm's and light to medium on the throttle. I have to keep it out of overdrive when going under 60 mph and am often shifting to 2nd in town. Does this sound like my transmission's internals or the torque converter dying? I really want an ATS, DTT, Suncoast or the like full rebuild but I just cannot afford it now. I'm basically looking to fix it and make it driveable or sell it. I'm not towing currently, but in a year or so I'll be hooking up a trailer hauling a light Toyota crawler which won't amount to much load.



Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated. I've removed my Van Aaken box and I do have a BD pressure loc for my transmission that's brand new. I know it sucks to look for the cheap way out but I wanna keep my truck.



What makes it worse is that the steering has that textbook clanking in the column and my front brakes pulsate hard under heaving braking. It also needs new tires. So as this all comes together it really starts to hurt.



Thanks for any ideas!
 
Do it once and do it right. Call the three big transmission companys and talk to them. I love my choice. SNOKING
 
When my 01 started to slip I talked to Bill K. I ended up buying a vb from him. I stopped the slip for about a year or longer.
 
Another thing to consider is just a full regular rebuild since you can not do a full unit. With 150k it is not only clutch wear that is of concern but the seals in the trans that get hard and start to loose the ability to hold pressure which cause some of the symptoms you are talking about. Not to mention since you are focusing on the od unit that you may have worn hard parts as well as fibers and steels. I agree with the cost of the trans but remeber what you get in return.



Richard
 
Look you and everyone else knows the promlems most have with the automatic transmissions. Yours has lasted for 150,000 miles, and is in dire need of retirement. If you were smart, about a year or two ago you would have started putting a little money aside every month, for the eventual trany repair. It not, you really do need the help!!

Do it right the first time, and you will be money ahead. The short turm fix is just that, temporary. If all you can afford is a stock rebuild, then so be it. But don't think you can get the trany rebuild and throw in a VB, and have a great new trany. There are two many problem areas for a quick and cheap fix, Take it to anyone of the three major transmission specalist that advertize in the TDR and you will be a very happy man. I can say that getting a new transmission was one of the best movers I ever made, but it wasn't cheap, nothing is anymore.

Your transmission sounds like that of most others, it was pushed past it's limits and the overdirive unit is slipping, hence the lack of performance while locked. good luck now and latter trying to pull that Toyota around.
 
raychem said:
Another thing to consider is just a full regular rebuild since you can not do a full unit. With 150k it is not only clutch wear that is of concern but the seals in the trans that get hard and start to loose the ability to hold pressure which cause some of the symptoms you are talking about. Not to mention since you are focusing on the od unit that you may have worn hard parts as well as fibers and steels. I agree with the cost of the trans but remeber what you get in return.



Richard





You talking about a full regular rebuild from one of the big transmission companies that advertises around here? I wish I knew someone local that was competent enough to actually rebuild the thing but I can't trust any of them has ever done anything good with one of these trannys.
 
y-knot said:
Look you and everyone else knows the promlems most have with the automatic transmissions. Yours has lasted for 150,000 miles, and is in dire need of retirement. If you were smart, about a year or two ago you would have started putting a little money aside every month, for the eventual trany repair. It not, you really do need the help!!

Do it right the first time, and you will be money ahead. The short turm fix is just that, temporary. If all you can afford is a stock rebuild, then so be it. But don't think you can get the trany rebuild and throw in a VB, and have a great new trany. There are two many problem areas for a quick and cheap fix, Take it to anyone of the three major transmission specalist that advertize in the TDR and you will be a very happy man. I can say that getting a new transmission was one of the best movers I ever made, but it wasn't cheap, nothing is anymore.

Your transmission sounds like that of most others, it was pushed past it's limits and the overdirive unit is slipping, hence the lack of performance while locked. good luck now and latter trying to pull that Toyota around.



Yea, I know the trannys have their troubles but there's been no money to set aside. It has done okay to make it 150k. When it comes to no expenses spared that's why my Toy project is for and that's one reason I have no "hotdog" money. Of course I want to do it right the first time, but when that means $4k I just don't have, well then I just don't have it. If the thing was paid for it'd be no sweat. If I can just get a rebuild I'll take that. . but what's a straight up rebuild run from someone that can do it. I know it won't be great, but it will be DRIVEABLE and that's my goal. . If I can't get it driveable then I have to get rid of it. Period. I know putting in a good transmission would make my truck ten times better. You're preaching to the choir. But my hard earned money is prioritized elsewhere.



In all seriousness I think what I'd be happiest with is a stock rebuild with a decent torque converter. But if what you're calling a stock rebuild is the low level transmission on the dtt and others websites then that's just too much and I'll be getting rid of this truck.
 
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Is this what you guys mean by base/stock rebuild? This is right off their webpages.





HTS

47re Improved Stock $1875 + $1000 core no TC

Torque Converter - $????





ATS

47re Rebuilt - $2,409. 00 + $900 core



OPTION I Approximate Cost $1388. 00

Five Star Viskus Clutch Drive Torque Converter

- Stall speed matched to engine for better acceleration. .

- No lockup clutch slippage.

- Lower ATF temperatures.

- Ability to reliably pull or haul heavy loads.

- An excellent replacement for a worn out torque converter.





Suncoast

$2595 Rebuilt I assume with no TC

TC - $1295





DTT

Performance transmission w/ TC $3699









Anybody wanna buy a 2000 Dodge Ram that needs some transmission work? It's got leather! I'll take $15k!
 
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