2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission HELP needed on Sport Light mod...

[Gary - K7GLD]

Last year, I bought a set of sport light headlights to upgrade the stock setup on my truck. I began the conversion one day, but had a REAL hard time removing that dern metal push-on clip that's WAY up between the panels, and that holds the light assembly in place even after the mounting bolts are removed.



After a few false tries to get at it with various tools and schemes, I finally managed to get it off - but then ran into interference problems between the headlight assembly and front bumper. I was out of time by then, and wasn't ABOUT to remove the bumper to get the old assembly out - so just put it all back together again.



I'm about ready to start over - and DID discover that the whole bumper can just be loosened and swung down slightly to gain removal clearance for the headlight assembly - but I'm still faced with that elusive push-on clip that's hidden from view and tucked way up between body panels - so how have you other guys who have done this mod removed that clip?



I finally got the first of mine off by forcing an ice pick in under that clip and prying it off - still hard to do, and pretty hard on the post it attaches to and the panel that gets all dinged up in the process - not to mention the cuts and scrapes to my hands!



There's GOTTA be an easier way, or tool to use - what IS it?

 

[T-Bone]

Any tips? I am getting ready to tackle this.



T-Bone

 

[wildmanben]

I have heard of guys breaking that tab off and not worrying about it, its really doenst have a purpose.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I really don't even see a way to break it off - the post it attaches to is threaded into the body of the headlight assembly itself...



In any event, I used the same pair of icepicks as the first time I tried to make the change - being a bit more familiar this time around, it didn't take long, and carefully inserting the picks between the metal post and the spring steel securing fingers allowed me to spread the fingers and then pull the headlight assembly out clear of the pocket.



Getting the assembly CLEAR out and over the bumper was another matter - be prepared to loosen and drop the bumper for clearance - and maybe, even pull the bumper if necessary to get enough room for non-damaging removal of the old assembly, and install of the new one.



Here again, that same dern post is the main obstruction to removing to light assembly - and attempts to tilt and twist the light assembly to force it on out past the bumper can easily leave ugly scrapes and scars wherever it comes in sharp contact with the truck on the way out.



Installation of the new lights was easier - as was stated in a previous post, that post and push-on clip serves NO necessary purpose - I simply unscrewed the posts outta the new assemblies and tossed them - much easier then to get the lights into place!



More suggestions? If you do loosen and drop, or remove the bumper, carefully note the gap spacing between the top bumper surface and the bottom of the grille and lights for future reference - makes it easier to get it back where it was originally.



The bolts on my bumper (10 of them) were #19 metric - deep socket is recommended - and a standard 11/16 socket worked on most of mine, but was slightly too small for about 4 of them. On mine, merely dropping the bumper was only BARELY adequate - but complete bumper removal - especially with the optional fog/driving lights installed in the bumper, is something I really wanted to avoid - also, I was working by myself, and that bumper is too much for an old coot like me to handle by myself...



I'll make one more short comment in passing, relative to choosing wiring for the new lights. I was VERY disappointed with the quality of some of the hardware supplied with the Daniel Stern wiring kit I choose - and would strongly suggest going for one of the available completely pre-assembled wiring setups instead - might save you lot's of headaches and lost hair... :-laf



Having said all that, the new lights are very superior to the OEM stuff - you'll really like the improved night time visibility they provide!

 

[T-Bone]

Hey Gary,



Thanks for all the information. I’ll take the ice pick thing and run with it.



As for the bumper, I have a UTE. I’m not sure if the lights will clear or not. It’s aluminum so scratches are a real easy thing to do. I have had it off a few times - once to do the fog lights and twice more to do the winch. I’m sure it’s quite the sight to see me on my back underneath that thing balancing it on my feet while trying to undo and then redo all the bolts. Lol Oh well, I’m getting better at it!



If I get a chance, I may try and pull the clips prior to jumping in with both feet (no pun intended).



Thanks again,

T-Bone

 

[MCummings]

When I replaced my lights with aftermarket "clear" lights, I took the top plastic cover off the bumper it was easy to install them,, however, removing and installing the plastic cover wasn't that easy, but I was replacing the black cover with a chrome cover while I was there anyway,. .



Merrick

 

[JamesL]

mcummings,

do you have a pic of the chrome cover you installed and where did you get it from? thanks,

james

 

[MCummings]

I don't right now, but I will get some pics soon. Here is what it is like. I couldn't find the exact thing, ebay item # 330045720631



I'll get some pics up as soon as my truck gets out of the freakin' transmission shop. (been there 6 months out of this year... )





Merrick

 

[SBettencourt]

The headlight assembly simply pulls out after 3 fasteners and the turn signal are removed. No tools required. That 4th fastener is fiction fit. I too thoght it was a real fastener when I replaced one of the lites on my '01. I can't remeber how I figured it out, it might be it the FSM. Last week pulled the lites out of my 96 and they just pulled out (like the '01) The bumper has to be moved on both to prevent scratching the underside of the lite opening with the "threaded" friction fit stud.

 

[Bob4x4]

I had a really great parts guy when I did my 94. He found me all the correct insulators and terminals so I could build a correct wiring harness. I wired all bulbs through relays to get full battery voltage to all filaments. That is probably one of the best upgrades to do for anyone that does any night driving with a second gen. Remember all trucks built before the sport lights were factory installed will have to do a bit of sheet metal trimming.



Bob

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The headlight assembly simply pulls out after 3 fasteners and the turn signal are removed. No tools required. That 4th fastener is fiction fit. I too thoght it was a real fastener when I replaced one of the lites on my '01. I can't remeber how I figured it out, it might be it the FSM. Last week pulled the lites out of my 96 and they just pulled out (like the '01) The bumper has to be moved on both to prevent scratching the underside of the lite opening with the "threaded" friction fit stud.

Mine sure wouldn't just "pull out" - that's what I had hoped for, but tried as hard as I could to get them to kick loose simply by pulling forward on the light assembly as hard as I dared - no joy...

 

[T-Bone]

Well, last night I removed the passenger side headlight just to see what I was looking at. I removed the turn signal (one screw on the outside at the bottom) and the three bolts on the headlight assembly. I pondered the stud thing for a bit and even got a mirror to take a look at what was back there. I was figuring I needed to pull the battery to really tackle it when I got brave and took a screw driver and pried a little. The headlight came right out! I was able to get the old one out and the new one in place (for the most part) with out removing the UTE bumper. I still need to do the sheet metal work for the extra light. If I can get a saw in there to do the surgery, I should be good to go!



T-Bone

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Well, last night I removed the passenger side headlight just to see what I was looking at. I removed the turn signal (one screw on the outside at the bottom) and the three bolts on the headlight assembly. I pondered the stud thing for a bit and even got a mirror to take a look at what was back there. I was figuring I needed to pull the battery to really tackle it when I got brave and took a screw driver and pried a little. The headlight came right out! I was able to get the old one out and the new one in place (for the most part) with out removing the UTE bumper. I still need to do the sheet metal work for the extra light. If I can get a saw in there to do the surgery, I should be good to go!



T-Bone

That's great! Maybe I just wasn't brave - or strong - enough to get mine out that way - or else there's a difference in the clip hardware used. But anyway, glad to hear yours is going better than mine did! :-laf