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Help - newbie here - NV5600 lube

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Water-in-fuel light

What Turbo do I have?

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Gentlemen - I'm in the first week of ownership of a 2003 quad cab. The previous owner - a friend included a maintenance oil change and pseudo diesel intro. We put Valvoline Blue syn in the engine, in the trans we put mobil1 5w-30 engine oil. Previously he used Redline MTL but we can't find it here (San Diego). After looking / searching I'm thinking we used the wrong oil. There's only a couple a miles on it - less than a 100, so I don't think (hope) anything is damaged. I did see that an Amsoil product is used frequently.



I know newbie questions can frustrate the experienced guys, please bear with me.



Please advise.



Fred the programmer
 
Better get that engine oil out of there quick! Autozone carries the correct lube for the 5600... Pennzoil Synchromesh, around $7-8 a qt IIRC. Blumenthals also has a lube they specify for their remanned units. Lots of people have had good luck with others too... but get the Mobil 1 stuff outta there !!
 
Never use engine oil in the NV5600. Pennzoil has a lube that meets the Mopar specification; it is called “Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid. ” Amsoil makes a lube for the NV5600 also. These lubes are roughly equivalent to 5-30 weight oils. If you have added a lot of power and/or tow very heavy trailers, Torco RTF may be advisable; it is about 10-40 weight and has more anti-shock and anti-wear additives but may be a little harder on synchronizers.
 
Update

Sunday morning. It took 2 Autozone stores to get enough of the Pennzoil to change it. I read a couple other threads recommending that an extra quart be added. After draining and sopping up as much as I could of the Mobil 1 (I let the truck set overnight and drained it before moving) I put 4 qts of the Pennzoil in, moved the truck to a bank at the bottom of my drive way and added 2 more for a total just shy of 6 qts. (I was able to get the drivers side 18-24 inches higher).



I have a couple more questions/observations -



Was the extra quart a good idea or do I need crawl back under?

Do you think the remnants of the Mobile1 will contaminate the Pennzoil?

On the issue of my friends fluid knowledge, the deal he gave me on the truck was excellent, it was very well maintained. Do I mention it? (This was the first time he had used the Mobile1)



After a little over a week with the truck I have to say I'm happy as a clam, I get 19-20 miles per gallon (vs. 15 another friend gets in with a Duramax) and it rides like a Cadillac.
 
Was the extra quart a good idea or do I need crawl back under?



Overfilling is common, and should work fine for you.





Do you think the remnants of the Mobile1 will contaminate the Pennzoil?



Absolutely not. No way. I'm not sure, but I suspect the reason you don't want to use 5w-30 engine oil in the transmission is the "detergent" aspect. Motor oils are meant to hold contaminants in suspension, and that's not good for soft yellow metals in the transmission. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.



On the issue of my friends fluid knowledge, the deal he gave me on the truck was excellent, it was very well maintained. Do I mention it? (This was the first time he had used the Mobile1)



That's up to you. I'm more-or-less socially inept, so I'm not sure whether it would be better to call him on it. If it were me, I probably wouldn't say a word. Maybe suggest he get a TDR membership, if he's still a diesel owner.



it rides like a Cadillac.



Really!? Is it a 2500 or 3500? Mine is a pretty rough ride unless there's some weight in the bed.



Ryan
 
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Guess i should have said it's 2500-quad cab short bed



And yep, rides like a Caddy after spending the last 25 years in a Toyota 4x4 mini truck or a Jeep Cherokee. Funny thing is the Cummins gets better mileage than either.
 
anther newbie question

Please de-code:)



2004 SLT QC 4x4 HO 6 speed - got this

DDP injectors - after market ?

BD twin turbos - got it

Smarty - What the ___ is this:confused:

South Bend Con-Fe - ditto

Transfer Flow - yep I'm ignorant

SRT hood - ?

Reunel stainless bumpers with Warn 16. 5ti and XD9000 - ok

Brite Box & Fogzilla - this one really has me wondering

Mag Hytec/LE607 - let'me guess - ecu programmer

Line-X;Optima batteries;KORE Chase suspension. - ok



Have in jest but I am curious and have not idea what the marked stuff is.
 
I'll give it a stab to the best of my limited ability:):

DDP injectors - Dynomite Diesel Performance Injectors. Depending on the nozzle, can deliver stock or higher horsepower levels.

Smarty - Many models available. Programmer for the ecm. Great asset to your diesel:D

South Bend Con-Fe- Single disc with both sides lined with a feramic coating. Stands up well under increased hp.

Transfer Flow -Makes aux fuel tanks that usually mount in the box of the truck.

SRT hood - Hood styled after srt 10 p/u hood?Guess?

Brite Box & Fogzilla - I believe it allows you to run both high and low beam lights as well as fog lights all at the same time BRITE!

Mag Hytec/LE607 - Differential covers. I believe the one you listed is the rear diff cover... might be wrong though?

Sounds like you have a real nice truck there! Good luck with her:)
 
It is a real SRT-10 hood! LE 607 is the diff lube I still use, now LE (Lubrication Engineers) has superceded it. The South Bend feramic clutch disk facings are not a coating, but a full thickness material.



I also have the new TST Powermax-CR with PDA (Palm computer) and other things I won't admit to. . .
 
Absolutely not. No way. I'm not sure, but I suspect the reason you don't want to use 5w-30 engine oil in the transmission is the "detergent" aspect. Motor oils are meant to hold contaminants in suspension, and that's not good for soft yellow metals in the transmission. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.



Ryan





The main reason not to use a motor oil is the fact they are not as shear stable as a gear oil... different additives obviously for different applications. As for the yellow metals, that typically only applies to gear oils because they contain wear additives consisting of compounds of sulfur (that is the component that attacks yellow metals).



As for not running the 5w30 motor oil... BULL! If you read any of the older threads on this board, you will see a LOT of guys ran 5w30 motor oil in lieu of synchromesh because the synchromesh was very hard to find, not to mention very expensive. If I remember reading correctly (on this forum no less), Amsoil was one of the first to recommend their 5w30 motor oil as a lubricant in the NV5600 and then developed their MTF. I'll bet some of the older members of this forum still run 5w30 motor oil in their NV5600s.



Would I run a motor oil in place of a synchromesh fluid? If I could not get the correct fluid and it was a temporary thing, you bet (or I would complete more frequent changes). FYI, you can get Redline MTL from Summit Racing via the web... it is the MTL, and not the MT-90, that you want. You can also get Amsoil MTF and Royal Purple SynchroMax via the web. And you can obviously stick with the Pennzoil flavor if that works for you...
 
I put 4 qts of the Pennzoil in, moved the truck to a bank at the bottom of my drive way and added 2 more for a total just shy of 6 qts. (I was able to get the drivers side 18-24 inches higher).

Was the extra quart a good idea or do I need crawl back under?



Lots have done the one quart extra. I have the PTO extenders on the trans to gain extra lube and cooling. I also added one extra quart above the fill hole for many years, but was allways bothered by the oil residue on the oil pan between the bellhousing. I lowered the fluid back to the fill hole and no more oil residue on pan.
 
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