Archived Help !! -- No start after fuel filter change

[dzldodge]

:{ Help

I am new to diesels. I thought I'd change the fuel filter in my new-to-me truck. It seemed fairly straight forward. I put it all together and fired up the truck. It ran for about 7-8 seconds then shut off. It will not start now. I have searched the forums but have not found a similar problem. I did find in one thread if you bump the starter, the lift pump will cycle for 30 seconds to prime the filter housing. I have done this at least 10 times if not more. I checked for any fuel at the banjo/shraeder valve deal. Nothing! I cracked the water drain deal on the filter housing and got just a dribble out the hose. Do I just keep cycling the lift pump ? Is there a way to make it run constantly to help it prime faster ? Have I really f'd things up ????



Please help !!!!!



Thanks

 

[DieselMinded]

Relax,,,, we all paniced the first time ..... Just go out and keep cranking in short burst it will start



DM

 

[dzldodge]

DieselMinded --- thanks for your quick reply...

I have tried and tried and tried...

I am afraid my starter is gonna puke !!

Just for grins, I took the top off the filter housing

It is only 1/3 full (not 2/3 empty, as I am trying to remain optimistic)

I bumped the starter

Lift pump runs for 30 seconds

No change in fuel level within the housing

I did this 3 times

No change whatsoever -- No activity like fuel spraying around

Should I pour fuel in the housing and try again ???

Is my lift pump bad ???



Thanks

 

[DieselMinded]

If your cranking and cranking and still are not able to get fuel in the canister ,,,,yes I would say your lift pump is bad and you have possibly been running on the VP for who knows how long,,



You need a fuel Pressure gauge to see whats going on But I guess if your not getting any fuel at all in the canister that LP is a goner.



This same senerio happens to everyone usually it just takes more cranking and every thing was fine



Good Luck



DM

 

[Ron Bissett]

:{ Help

I am new to diesels. I thought I'd change the fuel filter in my new-to-me truck. It seemed fairly straight forward. I put it all together and fired up the truck. It ran for about 7-8 seconds then shut off. It will not start now. I have searched the forums but have not found a similar problem. I did find in one thread if you bump the starter, the lift pump will cycle for 30 seconds to prime the filter housing. I have done this at least 10 times if not more. I checked for any fuel at the banjo/shraeder valve deal. Nothing! I cracked the water drain deal on the filter housing and got just a dribble out the hose. Do I just keep cycling the lift pump ? Is there a way to make it run constantly to help it prime faster ? Have I really f'd things up ????



Please help !!!!!



Thanks

If you fill the canister and the truck runs the injector pump is doing the work and will soon burn out . So Go to Cummins and get a new pump and that should do it ,But do get a 0 to 16 psi pressure sending unit and gauge . Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville Ky Punp cost from Cummins 118 to 160 or so . Dealer price who knows ... . what the traffic will bare.

 

[DavidC]

Try holding half throttle. Crank for a few seconds. Turn ignition completely off and try again with half throttle. This will run the lift pump each time for about 25 seconds and holding the throttle helps purge. I just changed mine this morning and used this method. Finally started about the fifth time.



Dave

 

[jandtjil]

Depending upon what the local price for a LP is, or if you can have the truck sit for a couple days. These guys have a pretty good price on LPs

Once you get the LP installed you may have to crack open the injector lines at the cyl just a smidge, usually no more than a couple and she will take off.

 

[dzldodge]

I poured some fresh diesel in the housing and put it back together. It fired up on the 4th try. I let it idle for about 15 minutes and took it for a test drive. It runs fine. It did set a code so I went to the local auto parts store (They'll pull the codes and clear 'em for ya). The code was P1689. The guy did not know what it was for. It also says on the print out "Manfacurer Contrl. Auxiliary Inputs Auxiliary Outputs". He cleared the code and I drove home. All seems to be fine. Tomorrow, I am going to buy a hand held fuel pressure gauge to check the pressure. Tonight, I am going to search around and figure out which gauges I am going to buy for inside the truck. I want to install fuel pressure, pyro, boost, trans temp. I am thinking about a 3 pod pillar mount and mount the last one under the dash or maybe right next to the pillar on the dash.



I wanted to say thanks to all that responded and helped. It is great to have such an invaluable resource to fall back on when you get into trouble !!



Thanks Again

 

[DieselTweaker]

Sounds like it's time for a lift pump.

 

[tp0d]

Yea I`d get a new LP for that before you have to get both a new VP and LP... the price of a LP is good insurance, and an easy 25-30 min changeout.



good luck



-j

 

[rkressg]

p1689, error in communication between VP44 (PECM on pins 1,2) to ECM (pins 13,23). You have a damaged/dying VP44 (probably due to lack of sufficient fuel pressure/volume). Unfortunately, the only fix for this is a new injection pump. If the truck is still running fine, I would just ignore this until it begins to run like junk.



I would strongly recomend a mechanical fuel pressure gauge.

-Rich

 

[Black Cloud]

dzldodge,



That is excatly what happened to my truck this past winter. I changed the fuel filter and after running through the start cycle a few times. . nothing. The lift pump was on its way out and by changing the filter there was not enough pressure to start the truck. Installed a new pump and viola... Good Luck.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Where are you located? Someone could give you help as needed. . .

Be very sure not to let any dirt into the filter can. The filter removes everything over 10 microns and you won't even see stuff that small.

 

[dzldodge]

Well this afternoon, I ordered a SPA Fuel Pressure/Trans Temp Gauge Combo along with an Autometer Boost and EGT Gauge so the 3 will fit in a triple pillar pod set up.



Also, I could not find a hand held pressure gauge locally so I took the needle assm. out of the Shraeder valve. I took my cheesy vacuum/10 PSI pressure gauge and hooked it up to the valve. Idling it had 3 PSI and revving it up, it would drop to 2 PSI. Looks like the lift pump crapped out !!! So now, I want to put a pusher pump on it like a friend of mine did instead of dealing with the lift pump again. He has Holley electric fuel pump mounted near the tank. I will check out his install plus others on TDR.



I'll post my progress

 

[dzldodge]

Where are you located? Someone could give you help as needed. . .

Be very sure not to let any dirt into the filter can. The filter removes everything over 10 microns and you won't even see stuff that small.

I'm in Jacksonville, FL --- That would be quite a haul to New Mexico !!

Yeah, when I had the filter out, sucked all the fuel from the housing, cleaned it and the water sensor and put it back together.

 

[dzldodge]

Well, I finally got around to installing my gauges. I absolutely love them !!!! They were a pain to get in but definitely worth the effort. I believe this is the first thing anyone should do to their truck if they are going to modify it. I put 4 gauges in a 3 gauge pod. I have an Autometer Boost at the top with a Autometer EGT in the middle and a SPA fuel pressure and transmission temp gauge in the bottom. Now, I have a good baseline of what the readings are before I do any bombing. Except of course for the Carter pusher pump. From the moment I fired up the truck after the gauges were installed, I knew I had a problem. The fuel pressure gauge read only 3 pounds at idle. While cruising, it read zero. With the hammer down, it would actually show a vacuum (as much as -4. 5 pounds). So of course I poked around on TDR to figure out what to do. I decided to go with a Carter pusher pump instead of replacing the stock lp and adding the Carter low pressure pump. Instead, I added the 4601 16 PSI pump. The install went off without a hitch using info I found on TDR like the lp wire harness extension used to signal the pusher's relay. Anyway, the set up works great ! At idle, I have 14-15 psi, 7-8 psi at WOT and no hard starting. My VP-44 is happy now !!!