Help on Pyro & thermocouple

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I am now installing my Isspro pyro and boost guages. After long debate I have decided to mount my pyro post turbo on the elbow, but have a question or two. The thermo couple I received was the adjustable weld in type. It says to drill a 3/4" and weld the one piece in and screw the other into the welded one. First question I have is would it be a big deal to just drill and tap the elbow and eliminate the weld in piece? Second, what size drill bit and tap? Third question is how far in does a guy put the adjustable thermocouple, I would assume just center the tip, but I don't know? Finally, the last question (or concern). I have actually had the guages mounted on the a-pillar for a couple of weeks, but haven't had the engine side hooked up yet. I noticed my pyro guage has always read about 99 degress right out of the box, what is the deal with this? Thanks in advance for the replies, you guys are a great source to turn to. Now I have to get out to the garage and install my TST power kit, JRE exhaust, and scotty air. This bombing is just too much fun!!!

 

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I drilled and tapped the dimple in the side of the elbow on mine. I used a 1/4"NPT (national pipe thread) adapter and then screwed the pyro into it. I beleave it took a 7/16" drill bit for the 1/4"NPT plug. 1/4" NPT is actually about 1/2". The 1/8"NPT coupling is about 1/4" diameter. Do like I did and take it to Home Depot or somehwere where you can get the bit and tap together as a set. And you can try the adapter on for size with the thermo coupling. Removing all doubt before drilling takes the anxiety out of it. The elbow comes off pretty easy if you have enough extentions to reach the nuts from under the truck. My coupling is about 3/4 of the way across the elbow inside.

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Steve McDaniel, IUEC local 74
98 2500 "Buckwheat" CC 4X2 12v 5spd 4. 10, Comanche 245/75R16Es, Monroe LT Plus shocks, Silencer ring removed, Stainless exhaust flex coupling. VDO boost and pyro gauges. AFC tweeked just alittle.
97 Dodge Stratus 150HP
92 Harley Fatboy, Dynojet fuel management, Supertrapp 2-1

 

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It's also a good idea to use antiseize on the fitting before you screw it in.

 

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I installed mine pre-turbo, in the exhaust manifold.
I used a 27/64 drill bit, and a reamer, then the 1/4 NPT tap. The reamer comes with the tap in quality(expensive,industrial type) kits. In the absence of a reamer, I'd simply drill the hole with a 7/16 bit. Diesel Dynamics has a great set of instructions on this very type of installation, you can find it on their website, and print it out... Use axle grease on the drill bit to keep shavings that fall in to a minimum. A small extendable magnet with a head no bigger than a pencil eraser,commonly found at NAPA or AutoZone,works wonders in getting ALL the chips and shavings out of the manifold. And a tube of Permatex Anti-Seize is a good idea, put a little on the brass threads before you screw it in. Post turbo is okay, but I recommend pre-turbo i you're going with any black box or injectors, it may help you save your engine.
Also, run a search on this topic, for more help. Email me if this isn't enough info, I'll help all I can !

 

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All of the above is good advice. I'd like to add one more thing and reaffirm another. When I put mine in I didn't use grease or a magnet to keep shavings out. I took my air nozzle and taped it to my tail pipe. I set the regulator on my air compressor to ~10 psi. Then commenced to drilling. WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES IF YOU TRY THIS! Not one filing fell in the pipe. It worked great. Finally, I'd like to reaffirm the anti-sieze comment. That stuff is a must. Get some of that good nikel or high temp copper stuff. There's my $. 02. Hope this helps.

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1999 2500 ISB QC SLT (No Leather!), 4x4, 5sp, 4:10, 275 inj. , 4"exhaust, Poweredge, A-Pillar gauge pod w/boost and pyro, Line-X, V-1, lights, siren, lic. plt. frame that says "Diesel Fumes Make Me Horny!", and much more goofy stuff. (Too much to be listed. )