Help! over/underdrive question

[Archive]

I have a question about the best O/U two speed unit. My problem is that the truck idles too fast while picking up hay and straw in the field. My pickup crew mutinies, because they have to jog to keep up with the truck and trailer. The first load is alright, but after about five loads I have to take them to the coroner! I want a two speed that goes under 1st and over 5th so I can have a creeper and a better overdrive. Are there any products that do this? Gear Vendors, etc? Do they go under the gears, over, or both? Am I making sense? I want a . 5, 1, 1. 5, 2, 2. 5, 3, 3. 5, 4, 4. 5, 5, 5. 5 speed. HELP!!!!!!!!!! Myself and my pickup crew will appreciate any help you can give me!

------------------
'99 3500HD flatbed, 5 spd 4:10 Posi, homebuilt underbody toolboxes & cowcatcher, 4" straight stack, K&N filter, what silencer ring? mudgrips, banks pyro & boost guage, sw fuel guage, 50% 3 wire BlueBox(HOLYSMOKE), Psycotty air & 4" down coming!, thinking about 1/2" fuel lines(real hard)

 

[Archive]

Ole bud, you need to update that profile to show that your "Psychotty Air" and 4" down pipe and guages are installed instead of 'coming'... Just thought I'd let ya know! #ad


------------------
1996 White, Extra-cab, 4X4, 5-speed, 4. 10 Model 80 rear, Laramie Pkg, Rickson Truck Accessories 19. 5" wheels with Michelin 265/70 XZT load range 'G' mud type tires, 4" turbo-back full-straight pipe exhaust with through the bed stack, Mopar brush guard, K&N RE-0880 air filter,"Psychotty Air", removed turbo silencer ring, Banks Boost & Pyro Guages (pillar mounted) 'tweaked' injector pump (cam plate all the way forward, AFC control run all the way in), well over 120k miles, lots of GOOD, BLACK SMOKE!!, Rollin'-S 25-foot, 10 ton flatbed trailer, with Vacuum/Hydraulic brakes, 16. 5" tandem dual Dexter axles.
-->5th gear out Thursday, June 22 @ 126,680 miles<--

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by strick:
I have a question about the best O/U two speed unit. My problem is that the truck idles too fast while picking up hay and straw in the field. ...

I don't know about O/U units (you might need a 3 spd unit; I would expect 2 spd units to be direct with an over or under gear. )

A silly idea would be to bolt on a 4WD transfer case and an OD unit. The 4WD would give you at least three *real* creeper gears, and the OD would give you better cruising RPMs.

Just a thought.

Fest3er

 

[Archive]

What you are looking for is a Brown-Lipe box. They were made by Spicer and were a 3-speed (over, direct, and underdrive) unit. I have a 20% box on a 1988 Chevy V-30. LargeCar has one mounted with an Allison 4-speed auto behind his Cummins (originally a 5-spd stick). I believe they also made a 30% unit. Check with shops that work on dump trucks, etc. They might have one or know where you might find one.

------------------
Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring, cat,& muffler all stolen.

 

[Archive]

Is your truck 4WD? if so try talking with Greg @ Klune V. They make a planetary box that goes between the transmission / transfer case. You can get some really low gearing. Your workers could actually sit down and take a break while the truck was still moving. Try www.klune.com/v/ Sorry no overdrive though.

------------------
TOWER: '99 3500 4X4, White, 3. 54 LSD, 5spd, CMPR&TRL package. Glass shell or 9 1/2' Shadow Cruiser slide in. Geno's combo gauge. DynoMAX, K&N RE 0880, Jacob's E-Brake. PUTCO Max Boss boards and Flaps.
TOWEE: '82 CJ-8,Lime Light, Injected 440, 727 T flite, IH Dana 300, Dana 44 frt, Dans 60 rr 4. 88's & Detroits, 38. 5 X 14. 50 TSL/SX's, 15 X 10 Eagle 589's. Full soft top and full length cage.

BIGGER IS BETTER!! MO POWER

 

[Archive]

DNUT- Thanks for the reminder. Been awhile since I've veggged.
Fest3er- Actually I may do something very close to what you say. I may just convert the thing to 4wd. I wonder how much trouble that would be since it is already set up with the straight front axle? I won't get my overdrive, but I need the low hole worse. Something to think about anyway right. Anyone have an opinion on cost?
Bill Lins- I've never heard of them, but I'll certainly give them a call. That sounds like what I'm looking for. I wonder what the cost is? Probably my first child. 'Course that would be ok too #ad

Scrambled- Unfortunately it's not a 4wd. If it was I could run it in 4lo in the fields and everyone would be happy. Darnit. Why didn't I get that 4wd! #ad

Anyone else got an opinion? Is Gear Vendors better than US Gear? I can't figure out how to get in touch with US Gear. Anybody have a number? How about the Brown-Lipe box that was mentioned earlier?

------------------
'99 3500HD flatbed, 5 spd 4:10 Posi, homebuilt underbody toolboxes & cowcatcher, 4" down w/straight stack(speak-up! I can't hear you!), K&N filter, what silencer ring? mudgrips, banks pyro & boost guage, sw fuel guage, 50% 3 wire BlueBox(HOLYSMOKE), Psycotty air, thinking about 1/2" fuel lines(real hard)

 

[Archive]

Here is the web site for US gear they offer an under or overdrive. http://www.usgear.com/dual_range.htm

------------------
1996 4x4 3500 4. 10 5spd, Diesel Dynamics stage 2 injectors, #5 TST plate, Pump mods, 16cm2 housing with 4" exhaust, Cummins exhaust brake, US Gear overdrive, Grover air horns, Mag-Hytec cover, and more.

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by strick:
... I may just convert the thing to 4wd. I wonder how much trouble that would be since it is already set up with the straight front axle? I won't get my overdrive, but I need the low hole worse. Something to think about anyway right. Anyone have an opinion on cost? ...

If you haven't needed 4WD, then it wouldn't really pay to convert it. Install the transfer case and cover over the front propeller shaft connection. To opine a cost, I should think you would be able to do it for $1200 or so. You would need the transfer case, shorter driveshaft, perhaps a different tail housing on the transmission and the 4WD shift linkage.

Hmmm. You could bolt a DC motor/generator on in place of the front shaft. Combined with a few batteries, you could have both a speed retarter and an extra 100HP for acceleration. Or you could use the front shaft connection to power a bale loader/stacker. Then you could dispense with the crew completely. #ad


Fest3er

------------------
'98 auto, 4X4, valve- and BOMB-challenged; Yokohama 225/75-19. 5 on Rickson wheels; 67K miles; Amsoil dual remote filter

 

[Archive]

Strick, Seriously call Greg 1 800-222-3619 X262. They make a planetary that can be divorce mounted. Also make one that will bolt to the back of the trans and has a yoke on the output.

Putting in the transfer case would also work. Best suggestion there would be to find a donor 4wd truck and change the trans and case as on unit. (save you from tearing your trans apart to change the output and tail housing) You'd also be able to get the crossmember and probably the drive shaft. Should be a bolt in. Just let the front output go along for the ride.

If you can fabricate another solution could be using a mid 70's Ford divorce mounted New Process 205 transfer case. Would require a short shaft between your trans and the case, and shortening your existing shaft. Linkage could be interesting, as could the mount. The 205 is indestrustable (was used in 1st Gen trucks) BUT H E A V Y!!

 

[Archive]

Scrambled-Thanks for the suggestion. I checked the web page out. I really don't think that I can use their product. I want to be able to shift it on the fly. Greg said their box is more like a transfer case. US Gear seems to be the only supplier of a shift on the go underdrive. Plus US Gear is cheaper and easier to install. Gear Vendors doesn't offer an underdrive. I don't know of anyother manufactures. I checked on a Brown-Lipe box, but the few people who knew what they were said they haven't been made in years. Also they cut out your primary gear only giving you above and below the primary. I'm not sure that I want that big of a jump between the gears. What say you Bill or Largecar? This is starting to be an interesting post. Jason

------------------
'99 3500HD flatbed, 5 spd 4:10 Posi, homebuilt underbody toolboxes & cowcatcher, 4" down w/straight stack(speak-up! I can't hear you!), K&N filter, what silencer ring? mudgrips, banks pyro & boost guage, sw fuel guage, 50% 3 wire BlueBox(HOLYSMOKE), Psycotty air, thinking about 1/2" fuel lines(real hard)

 

[Archive]

The Brown-Lipe offers a low/direct/overdrive. Direct(primary) being the same gearing as you have now. I shift mine on the go with allison auto in drive with very little trouble. With the 5spd setup , should be a breeze to shift. The one I got is about the same size as a NV 4500 less the bellhousing. Here's the fun part, you will have to fab up your own mounts , shift linkages and modify your driveshafts. I mounted mine where the carrier bearing was. I 've got close to 5k on the truck since I did the swap. Only problems was a couple oil leaks on the brownie but I finally won that battle #ad
. Low is comparable to 4low in a 4x4, plus you can shift the brownie up as you increase speed.

------------------
97 Dodge cab/chassis 1 ton,Allison at 545 4spd auto, Brown-Lipe 3spd auxillary, 4. 10's,11'flatbed w/ monorail, bd injectors, K&N filter,Cobra 29 CB, Wilson 2000, electcric & V/H brakes, 50 gal. aux tank, pulling 20' 12 k cap tag-along flatbed trailer,
214,000 miles and counting
86' ford 1 ton,4 spd, 4. 10's, 6. 9 non turbo,("slow motion"),4spd ,90gal. aux tank, elecric & V/H brakes, pulls 40' G/N flatbed w V/H brakes
187,000 and counting

[This message has been edited by LARGE CAR (edited 06-27-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by strick:
"I checked on a Brown-Lipe... they cut out your primary gear only giving you above and below the primary"

Not mine- it has under, direct (primary), and over. I normally start off in direct (4. 10 axles) and split high gear when on the road. If I want SLOOOOOOW, I select First (SM465 trans), put the transfer case in 4-Lo (NP205), and pull the Brownie into underdrive. I don't know what my numerical crawl ratio is, but I can walk to town, get a cup of coffee, and wait for the truck to catch up!

 

[Archive]

Thanks guys. The guy I talked to said that you lost the primary. I guess that's not true. Boy it sure sounds like what I need. Do you have a clue how to go about getting one? I talked to a guy at Gear Vendors that thought he knew a guy who rebuilds Browns. I'll try to give him a call back. What would be the approximate cost of one do you reckon? When you were talking about linkages on the brown I assume that it doesn't have a switch like a two speed rearend that mounts on the stick. Does it have its own shifter or how does it work? I'm in unchartered territory here as you can tell. Thanks guys, Jason

------------------
'99 3500HD flatbed, 5 spd 4:10 Posi, homebuilt underbody toolboxes & cowcatcher, 4" down w/straight stack(speak-up! I can't hear you!), K&N filter, what silencer ring? mudgrips, banks pyro & boost guage, sw fuel guage, 50% 3 wire BlueBox(HOLYSMOKE), Psycotty air, thinking about 1/2" fuel lines(real hard)

 

[Archive]

I used a Mr Gasket 3 spd shifter from Auto Zone. The linkages are 1/2" pipe that were bent to go from the shifter to the brownie. On the Brownie end of linkage we welded a piece of all thread, then put a locknut and shift yoke. On the other end we welded the linkage that came with shifter to fit it. The all thread gives you room to adjust the linkage if necessary. I sent you an e-mail with some more info.

------------------
97 Dodge cab/chassis 1 ton,Allison at 545 4spd auto, Brown-Lipe 3spd auxillary, 4. 10's,11'flatbed w/ monorail, bd injectors, K&N filter,Cobra 29 CB, Wilson 2000, electcric & V/H brakes, 50 gal. aux tank, pulling 20' 12 k cap tag-along flatbed trailer,
214,000 miles and counting
86' ford 1 ton,4 spd, 4. 10's, 6. 9 non turbo,("slow motion"),4spd ,90gal. aux tank, elecric & V/H brakes, pulls 40' G/N flatbed w V/H brakes
187,000 and counting

[This message has been edited by LARGE CAR (edited 06-28-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Mine came out of an old rusted-out winch truck with a blown engine. The linkage was welded up out of steel rods. You might check with some boneyards that have old medium-duty trucks with gas engines, dump trucks, etc. My friend had gotten it to put behind his PSD, but got rid of that and bought a Dodge/Cummins instead. He sold the Brownie to me for $350. 00 and charged another $400. 00 to install it, including fabbing a crossmember and having the rear driveshaft cut and balanced.

 

[Archive]

Bill
Do you know what model Brownie you have? how about the ratios. It seems that the truck yards around here have so many that I get a choice.
Thanks, Larry

 

[Archive]

Larry- sorry about the delay. I couldn't get on this site last night due to the server changeover. I'll get under the truck tomorrow and check the data plate. All I can tell you about it right now is that the overdrive is approximately 20%. I'll post the data from the plate tomorrow evening.

 

[Archive]

Thanks Bill
I was on the phone today and found 2 units in Portland, OR, 1 for $450 rebuilt and 1 for $500 like new. They are both 3sp +/- 20%.
what did you have to do to the center bearing cross member to mount the Brownie? What did you use for yokes?
Larry

[This message has been edited by LarryB (edited 07-01-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Info from data plate- "Watson Transmission
Manufactured by Brown-Lipe Gear Division, Spicer MFG. - Toledo, Ohio
Model #- M42 S/N- 019431

Mine is mounted between the transfer case and carrier bearing with a new crossmember. The unit came with the yokes already attached. The installer cut my front driveshaft and welded the yokes to the driveshaft pieces. The carrier bearing and its crossmember remain as factory. It would probably have been a more elegant installation to have the box replace the carrier bearing, but rigging the linkage would have been even more fun than it already was!

[This message has been edited by Bill Lins (edited 07-01-2000). ]