2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission "HELP" regulator for fuel pressure gauge autometer.

[dsherman]

Any one else having problems with their autometer fuel pressure gauge sending unit? My sending unit is lasting me 2 months before the needle is jumping all over the place. I called autometer and they say the lift pump is spiking over 15 pounds which is damaging the sending unit. So my question is has anyone tried to put a pressure regulator in to cut the spikes? And if you have what brand did you use and where did you get it? I called Holly and Mallory and they don't make a regulator that will work for diesel. My autometer gauge is model # 5461. I've gone thru 2 sending units already. My gauges are 2 5/8 inch gauges. I have 2 gauges. One before the filter and one after the filter. I would really like to keep these gauges.

 

[lmills]

I wouldn't see why any holley regulator wouldn't work as long as it was made to go that high on the pressure side. They are nothing more than a ball and spring pressure set up. As for the gasket, it should be OK for diesel fuel.

 

[lmills]

What is the max that you want for the fuel pressure?



Also keep in mind when the catalogs say "gasoline only", they usually mean that the regulator, carb, or pump is not compatible with alcohol fuel.

 

[illflem]

no need for a regulator

You need a gauge snubber ahead of the sender to even out the spikes. An 1/8" needle valve available from most hardware stores for under $5 will work great. After installing the valve start the engine with the valve closed then open it very slowly till someone in the cab signals that the gauge is reading pressure. You can tighten the packing nut under the valve handle to keep the setting from moving. Even then there is no guarantee that your sender will last, vibration and pump pulsation will wear though the resistive coil in the sender eventually. I went though three senders even with a snubber before I gave up and went with a mechanical gauge. The longest I had a sender last was 15k, mechanical gauge has preformed flawlessly for five years.

 

[Bigsaint]

You don't need a regulator, you need a snubber if the psi's are killing your electric senders. Did a search for ya, read on ... .



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...d=205074&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending



Most senders are 1/8"NPT, all you need is a short length of grease gun line, which you mount to the port ( pre/post filter) and then attach your sender to the other end. I'm no expert with snubbers, in fact I don't use one with my SPA sender. Those that do usually go this route. Hope I helped !



Scott W.

 

[Bigsaint]

Damn, whispering Bill beat me again



Scott W.

 

[rweis]

listen to Bill, simple, works!



I am going to test Westach solid state pressure senders, NO moving parts ie nothing to wear out, much smaller and lighter. The test setup will be: needle valve, snubber line, solid state pressure sender. I am betting that solid state will work!

 

[illflem]

There must be at least one moving part right? or am I falling behind?

 

[lmills]

has anyone ever tried using a fuel pressure isolator? The type with a diaphram? This has no electronics. The fuel would be run into the isolator whcih pushes against the rubber diaphram. On the other side of the isolator the diaphram pushes against a non-flammable fluid and sends the pressure reading to a standard gauge.



Wouldn't this take car of the issues with the senders getting shook to death?

 

[illflem]

NO

 

[lmills]

No, it wouldn't work?



or



No, no one has tried it?

 

[OL RATLR]

fuel pressure

Go to a mechanical gauge and solve all your problems.



Oo.

 

[illflem]

No it won't work. All of my Ag sprayers came "stock" with isolators to protect the gauges from caustic chemicals and a snubbers to protect from pulsations. The pulsations will go right though an isolator. Some isolators have a snubber built in but are much more expendsive, just a snubber is cheap, under $5.

 

[Joe G.]

Set the needle valve so that the gauge barely works. If the pressure rises quicky when you start the needle valve needs to be tightened.

 

[lmills]

Originally posted by illflem

No it won't work. All of my Ag sprayers came "stock" with isolators to protect the gauges from caustic chemicals and a snubbers to protect from pulsations. The pulsations will go right though an isolator. Some isolators have a snubber built in but are much more expendsive, just a snubber is cheap, under $5.

OK thanks for letting me know before I ruined mine. I have been meaning to ask but kept forgetting. I figured with all the members someone had to have tried it.





Does anyone have a picture of the snubber that they can post? I think I might know what yopu are talking about, just not sure.

 

[illflem]

Grainger 1/8" needle valve 6MN31 is what I use, actual size is much smaller than the picture



http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=1612835462 think this link will timeout and will not work after an hour. If it does go to www.grainger.com and do a product number search for 6MN31



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[illflem]

Here's a picture of an actual gauge snubber. All they really are is a coupling filled with sintered material to cause a restriction. I prefer a needle valve because you have the option of shutting it down if there's a leak. Snubbers are also hard to find in any size other than 1/4", you will need more fittings.



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[lmills]

Thanks, I finally got around to checking my pressure tonight. Pretty much what I figured. 2-3 psi at WOT. I checked it with a manual gauge. For the hook up I used an A/C hose fitting. Simple screw on screw off hook up

 

[lmills]

One more thing. Any idea where I can pick up a snubber? Is it a plumbing part, or more towards automotive parts?

 

[dieselshu]

Needle Valve

Try your local Napa p/n 6800 brass, double female.

Just my 2cents...

David