Archived HELP! Reinstalling O-ringed head need TQ #'s

[Got Smoke?]

Ok I'm reinstalling my freshly O-ringed head in just a few short hours. So far these are the only TQ specs I've been able to find close to my year model through the search feature.

Try the service manual. Other wise do this:



Number the head bolts on drivers side starting at rear: 26, 22,18, 14, 10,6, 2, 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23. On pass. side starting at rear: 25, 21, 17, 13, 9, 5, 1, 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24.



1) Tighten al bolts in sequence to 66 ft lbs. Check the torque. If lower than 66, tighten to 66.



2) Tighten all long 12mm bolts (nos. 4, 5, 12, 13, 20 and 21) in sequence, to 89 ft lbs. Check the torque. If lower than 89, tighten to 89.



3) Tighten all bolts , in sequence, and additional 90 degrees.



The above is from the 1995 service manual.

Can anyone tell me if this is correct? :{ Seems like everytime I've SPOKEN with someone I've heard 90ft/lbs + 90*



Also what about the rocker arm retainer bolts? What do they need to be torqued to?



TIA!

 

[BPonci]

The rocker arm bolts torque to 18flbs. I always check the bolts for streatch. If they are even close to the limit get all new bolts. As for the head bolts i always torque them to 120 as a final #. Do your last torque in a line setting. Then go back and recheck. If your going to use studs i always go to 135. Dont forget to do a retorque after you warm it up. Hope this helps. Good luck!... ... ..... Brad

 

[Got Smoke?]

Well we ended up doing 90ft/lbs + 90* because there were no responses when we started this morning. We just did the small tower bolts good-n-tight so they are probably 18 or a little more :-laf



We installed all new head bolts, torqued, warmed up/cooled off, broke loose and retorqued. Will possibly be Friday before I can do another break loose & retorque..... that could be roughly 250 miles or so... ... is that not to much distance to go?



Thanks for replying Brad

 

[Got Smoke?]

Mark I saw this earlier but didn't reply because I thought something wasn't right... .



66ft lbs settles everything in nicely. Usually I always start with a smaller number than ending torque to bring everything down nice & even.



Then tighten to 89 ft lbs.



Then tighten an additional 90 degrees.....



What part about that versus 90 ft lbs plus 90 degrees confused you???

Just wanted to make sure I was doing everything right. This was my first time having a cylinder head off a CTD, and I CAN NOT afford to have to pull it down again.

 

[480RUGER]

Hey Smoke, Where did you get your head done. I know I read where you sent it, but can't find it. I need to do mine before the Mach3s and JRs Turbo blow it off. Thanks. Hope you got yours right.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Hey Smoke, Where did you get your head done. I know I read where you sent it, but can't find it. I need to do mine before the Mach3s and JRs Turbo blow it off. Thanks. Hope you got yours right.

I pulled it off and carried it to JR this past weekend. Although I'm sure you could ship it to him and have it done also. Give him a call and see! #'s in the sig if ya forgot it! :-laf

 

[Got Smoke?]

K just wondering. Glad to hear it's up & running.

Its running great..... taking 'er REAL easy right now... ... . got about 130 miles on it. Gonna re-torque my headbolts for the last time Friday sometime then I should be done with HG stuff. Down the road when $$$ isnt' an issue I was a set of studs, but it wasn't in the budget this time and JR is still telling me I don't need them.

 

[J.R. Adkins]

NO. I said that you can get by without them. I do have customers running up to 80 psi on stock bolts. But I feel that they are on borrowed time. Keep the boost and timing down and you should be OK.



J. R.

 

[Got Smoke?]

NO. I said that you can get by without them. I do have customers running up to 80 psi on stock bolts. But I feel that they are on borrowed time. Keep the boost and timing down and you should be OK.



J. R.

Yeah what he said! :-laf