Archived HELP removing front rotors 97 2500 4x4

[jkh]

I am using a slide hammer with an adapter I made which spans across two studs. I am holding the adapter on with lug nuts and the slide hammer is screwed into the center of the adapter so I am pulling from the center of the hub. I've been hammering for about 10-15 minutes and it has barely moved.

Is there another trick to get these off?

I removed the 4 bolts from the back of the hub and the spindle nut and the caliper is hanging by wire from the frame . I don't think there is any thing else I have to take off,is there?

Any body have any other tricks, I need to get these off today?

Thanks.

Jerry

 

[jmeehan]

If you pull from the hub side you'll seperate the wheel bearing. Tha manual calls for hammering from the back side.

Reinstall the spindle to knuckle bolts about half way and use a hammer and large punch to drive against the bolt heads.

It dosen't sound easy to me but it's what DC's book says

A friend of mine seperated his wheel bearing going the way you are, he had to get it pressed back together.

 

[Cooker]

Yep, pounding on the studs from the rear is the way to go.

 

[jkh]

I just tried pounding on the bolts from the backside. Nothing moved. It is almost impossible to get a straight shot with a punch and hammer and be able to get any swing on the hammer.

Any body have any experience doing this that can tell me what worked for them.

thanks.

Jerry

 

[Cooker]

I had to turn the wheels back and forth several times so I could alternate sides while hitting the back of the studs. The also gave me a decent swing. I used a short punch, about 3". A hammer is usually the last tool I grab so naturally I was a bit less agressive with my first few swings and nothing was happening. You really have to be the crap out of them the get it to separate



I learned the hard way. I separated both of my bearings with a puller before I just beat the crap out of the to get them off.



A little heat may help, but I would be careful as you don't want to get the bearing too hot. I was able to get mine on my 1996 without heat and they were rusted on pretty well from living in the "salt belt".

 

[Extreme1]

I used a slide hammer like you are. If the back of the bearing is comming, keep going! It does take a lot to get them off. Clean as much rust off and use anti-sieze when you reassemble them.

 

[jkh]

They're off!

I finally ended up using a ballpeen hammer and holding it against the bolt and smacking the crap out of that with a small sledge at the same time I had some tension on the front side with the puller. I was able to put more of a swing into it this way because I wasn't afraid of missing the punch and hitting my hand since I was holding the ballpeen by the handle.

Before this,though,I did end up seperating the driver side bearing a little by using the slide hammer. I am going to get a price on a new one tomorrow since these have 100,000 miles onthem .

Thanks everyone for the input.

Jerry

 

[Cooker]

At 115k I pressed mine back together after separating them. 15k later they are still ok. I know others have way more miles than me on their hubs that they separated and pressed back tgether. I would press it back together and save the money for other BOMB's or repairs.



Last I checked a new hub was around $200 from the dealer.

 

[Extreme1]

I still have the one I seperated 5 years ago. It's fine, the axle nut will pull it back together. Just slap some good quality grease on it since it's apart.

 

[JoshPeters]

I've found that if you are careful using an air hammer they come out pretty easily from the back side. I did the pads, rotors and slides in 3. 5 hours last time. I'll be trying for the same again tonite!



Josh

 

[Extreme1]

Originally posted by JoshPeters

I did the pads, rotors and slides in 3. 5 hours last time. Josh

You're hired!!

 

[JoshPeters]

LOL... . boy did I hurt after that though! I was limited to my time after work. They lock up the shop at 8 and I happened to get off work at 4:30 that day.





Josh