HELP! Rotor removal

[Red Rocket]

I tried to remove my rotors to replace them today, and I thought I had read enough here to do it, but I didn't get very far, thats why I need your help. I used a breaker bar to try and remove what I understand to be the axle half shaft nut, the nut with the cotter thru it. Anyway, instead of coming off like its supposed to, the threads STRIPPED. WHY?
Any input is helpful, I need to make a decision fast about whether to give up and take my baby to a shop. What do I need to do? Thanks. Nick

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1998 2500, 12 valves, SLT, auto, 3. 54, 285/75-16, TST 230/605, t/c switch, DiPricol EGT/boost guages,K&N,camper special, 65,000 miles(2/01),
12 ton goosneck!
'01 Polaris EDGE-X 600

 

[illflem]

Nick, you have a real problem there. I have taken dozens of axle nuts off with no problem, I always use an impact if that makes a difference. This may be silly but are you turning counter clockwise? That is the correct way to remove. DC doesn't use anti-seize on the nut or splined axle shaft, it could be galled. Or else someone previously removed the nut and reefed down while tightening it with a 12 ft cheater bar and it was striped before you got to it. What I've done before with striped nuts(hope it's the nut not axle shaft) when it's impossible to cut the nut with a torch or grinder is to wedge the nut out with chisels or screwdrivers while turning, hopefully it will catch and thread off. Let us know what happens for further advice.

 

[RHebert]

Nick, somethings wrong! On a 98 model, that nut should have come off without any problem. I repacked my wheel bearings last summer on a 96 model after around 60,000 miles, took the nuts right off. I was amazed how easy it was to service the brakes and bearings. Try some liquid wrench over nite, other than that - good luck!!!

[This message has been edited by Rodney Hebert (edited 03-25-2001). ]

 

[Red Rocket]

guys, unless this is reverse threaded, which it's not, there is no reason for what happened. I did try my impact, (1/2 450 ft/lb. ) it didn't work, something was wrong from the factory, weve had the truck since new, and it's never been apart. I cant tell whether the nut stripped or the shaft, but i also hope it's the nut. Any more input?

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Red,

Go through your records to see if the rotors have ever been takin off by your dealer.

My guess is the nut was overtightened on the assembly line. It would take an incredible amount of torque to do this.

I use a 3/4" drive socket on a 3/4" breaker bar & a 4 foot floor jack handle as a cheater bar, with all my weight on it. I have loosened & tightened the nut several times this way. No problems.

Its probably just the nut that is stripped. It will probably nut to be cut off. If not, the dealer owes you 2 axle shaft assembly's about $600 bananas a side.

Let us know how you make out. #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-25-2001). ]

 

[LSMITH]

RedRocket, mine did the same thing on the drivers side. I had it in for brake pull and when they took the rotor off to get new knuckles on the axle shaft stripped. I was told that it happens occaisionally. Must be us poor suckers living in the salt and rust belt. Put it back together with some anti-seize and chalk it up to experience.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member Great Lakes TDR Member

 

[illflem]

Ok it sounds like it is galled from no anti-seize. What happened is the axle and nut threads became one, when you turned, the threads on one or the other came off. This method will work but you must be careful and work fast to avoid damage to seals/bearings. Heat one flat of the nut red with a oxy/ace torch then drive a chisel though it to split the nut. You can then use a bar or larger chisel to wedge the nut bigger to slip off. This is what they will do if you take it to shop. You can also use a die grinder with a small carbide burr to split the nut. Use penetrating oil(not WD) on the other side before you start, it may avoid the problem.

2 or 4 Wd?




[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 03-25-2001). ]

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Red,

Forget what I said about overtorque at the factory. I doubt that happened.

I agree with illflem about galling.

See what the dealer says.

 

[Red Rocket]

Ok, I have a 4x4, ill edit my sig later. Anyway, I gather you guys think I should do this myself, so ill take that into consideration. What should I check in the bearings when I get it apart? Am I running high risk using a torch? I would like to do this the cheapest way possible, am I better off at a shop? Thanks for all the help, any more input is appreciated.

 

[DTAUG]

I bought my 96 last year and when I took it in for new tires the drivers side wheel was loose! My suspension experts said that it was not uncommon for someone to use an impact wrench to attempt to "adjust" the bearing play on the Dodge. My shaft was shot. However, aftermarket replacement was only about $150, not the $475 the dealer wanted.

 

[illflem]

Red, the reason I asked if you had a 4x is if you take it to a shop when you get it back you need to check that they didn't screw up the seals in the differential by pulling the half shafts out and cutting the seals with the sharp splines. The shafts don't need to be removed to do the job,but sometimes may be taken out so the work can be done on a bench.

You seem pretty qualified to do the job yourself. Take off the calipers and hang to the side if you haven't already. Remove three of the four bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the steering knuckle, save the easiest one to get at in place, they take a 12 point socket. The reason for leaving the one bolt is so things remain stable when going after that nut. When heating and cutting the nut you're going to want to pull the unit bearing as fast as you can, before heat transfers through the axle shaft to the seal/bearing. This isn't as scary as it sounds, the axle shaft and rotor are massive enough that much of the heat will dissipate, if you smell burning rubber(you won't) check out and replace seal. Heat and cut the nut at one or two of the cotter pin slots, don't worry about the rotor it's going to be replaced(hate to remind you!) and remove it. You will need to have a soft hammer(I prefer lead or copper) ready sometimes the splined shaft though the unit bearing is also stuck,heating it should of made it easier to remove though. Loosen the last bolt on the back of the unit bearing most of the way,but leave it in, this will keep the half shaft from pulling out of the differential, pound on the half shaft while rotating the rotor I bet it just pops out after removing the last bolt . Pay attention to the position of the spacer and dust shield for reinstalation. You got it! Next step is getting the studs out of the rotor, easy enough but that's a different lesson. Good luck, lets hear how you do -Bill




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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by DTAUG:
I bought my 96 last year and when I took it in for new tires the drivers side wheel was loose! My suspension experts said that it was not uncommon for someone to use an impact wrench to attempt to "adjust" the bearing play on the Dodge. My shaft was shot. However, aftermarket replacement was only about $150, not the $475 the dealer wanted.

I read your price quotes on the axle replacements. Could you tell me where you purchased the replacement axle?
Thanks, Bill C.

 

[TKemper]

Redrocket, just wanted to let you know that the bearing is a sealed unit bearing that is pressed onto the rotor. It can't be taken apart to insect. The four 12 point bolts go through the backside of the steering knuckle and bolt into the unit bearing that is pressed on the rotor. The clearance around the bearing to knuckle is minimal and tends to cause the two to rust together. My truck was 2 1/2 yrs old when I removed the right side rotor. With the 4 12 pt bolts removed, a three jaw puller, and some persuasive hammering, I still couldn't get them apart. It eventually separated the unit bearing, which I had to replace. The dealership doesn't sell the bearing alone, only as an asembly with the rotor... . listing for $305 each side. So, if you decide to tackle this job the siezed axle nut might not be the worst part of disasembly. Also , when putting it back together, use anti sieze compound on the bearing to knuckle and on the axle nut. Hope this is helpful. Todd

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97 2500HD 4x4 ST 12v, K&N, 16cm turbine housing, recalibrated pump, Geno's man trans filter, McLeod dual disc clutch, LSD with 3. 54's and Amsoil, AGR power steering box and pump, Borgeson steering shaft, Skyjacker 2" leveling kit, Rancho RS9000's, dual RS5000 steering stabilizers, AR Outlaw II wheels with 33x12. 5 Bridgestone Desert Duellers, Lund visor, Ventvisor window shades, Glasstite HiRise cap, aluminum tailgate protector, illuminated bumper guide poles, Cobra CB, Wilson 5000 antenna, Alpine CD, Infinity spkrs, Fosgate amp with 8" Bazooka tubes, Hayes elec brake controller and Husky floor liners. 16. 247 @ 87. 52mph quarter mile at 6700lbs

 

[illflem]

Todd, you're right the dealer doesn't sell the bearing alone, but Napa does, I paid $47 for one about two years ago.

 

[John HBD]

illflem,good post on how to remove hub assembly. When I remove the hub, which I do alot, I zip tie the axle shaft to the housing so it will not damage the seal. The weight of the axle is enough to damage the seal.
John

 

[Red Rocket]

OK, I only have a minute so Ill put a summary now, and details later, if anyone has questions, email me, I feel I am now a professional, everything that could go wrong did! Learning experience... found a used dr side shaft for 150

 

[JGK]

Illflem,

Geez, Bill, have you ever thought of a second career? From reading here since summer of last year, I'd say you know more about the practical maintenance of these trucks than just about anybody around!

Thanks for being a member!!

JK

 

[Jff24Gordn]

I had my front U-joints replaced last may, and the drivers side nut wasnt going to go anywhere fast. I was getting this done at a local 4x4 shop, and they said I wasnt the first with a overtorqued nut. Here is a picture of my short shaft(1 and the other side 2. They first tried a impact wrench, then a little heat on it, then alot of heat on it, then a heck of alot of heat on it till it came off. I got the new shaft for $150, and it was a dana part.

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1996 2500, 4x4, 5 speed
-- email address removed -- Great Lakes TDR
PURDUE STUDENT 
GO BOILERS

[This message has been edited by Jff24Gordn (edited 03-27-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

JGK, thanks. The Dodge dealer in the town 50 miles south of me had a ad for a mechanic, I thought what the hell, even though I have work I stopped in. The ad said potential $40k a year. Come to find out that it's mostly piece work and the hours were 5 days a week from 8 AM until you finish. Sure you could make 40k if stayed to midnight every day! No wonder the dealers have a hard time getting good mechanics...

To tell you the truth very little of my wrenching experience comes from CTD Rams, they are one of the most trouble free rigs I've ever come across, a lot of the problems we have are minor or self-induced. Most of my experience comes from 35 years of working on diesel heavy equipment & tractors. Owning beaters and being too cheap to pay someone else to do the work helps too!

 

[Red Rocket]

Well, I have one more question, I got the job done, and two things happened,

smoke from the rotor vents, right and left

brake and abs lights on at the same time, also right brake is less powerful, via sand test, left will lock up, right won't.

the first I think may be just the normal stuff burning off, since it was a messy job.
The lights, however I have no clue about, there is plenty of fluid. Any help is appreciated, then I'll post a complete summary after it's all good.

Nick