Help truck shut off on highway

[jpogue]

Okay still running all gauges still working and I took out fuse 10, for the winch, the one on the truck not my wife , so I could look at fuse 9. I can see it clearly and it has not blown yet. Been a good 1/2 hour now and still good. So now that I've isolated to shutoff solenoid, thanks to you guys, what would be the next step? tracing wires from solenoid I would assume? Thanks guys

 

[DavidC]

Probably a bad solenoid coil

 

[mwilson]

Solenoid is probably bad.

I see you have 300,000 miles showing in your signature so odds are it has sung it's death song....check the wiring for sure but it is probably fine...

Check this guy for a replacement, call him if you are unsure of which solenoid you might need...

https://fostertruck.com/collections/dodge-fuel-solenoids

 

[DavidC]

Solenoids create heat when energized, heat breaks down the fine wire varnish which eventually destroys it's operation. Some die slowly like yours, others are instantaneous. Do not ever energize the coil with out the center having the mechanism or bolt in it as a fast destruction will happen. That core section not only does the operation but also dissipates the heat the coil has made.

 

[jpogue]

Solenoid itself is only a few years old. I don't think I bought the solenoid from Larry B but I'm pretty sure I bought that relay kit. I also did his fuel heater removal kit and replaced the fuel lines

 

[jpogue]

DavidC where would the solenoid coil be?

 

[BigPapa]

Don't take the clip off. It is what moves the shut off lever on the pump.

I think you're thinking of the woodruff key on the shaft under the lever. No, he doesn't need to remove the lever from the shaft. I was referring to the pin in the clevis that holds the solenoid clevis to the lever.

 

[DavidC]

DavidC where would the solenoid coil be?

I can tell you it is in the pump where the mechanism is that you tywrapped. Hopefully some of these 12v guy's can help you with replacement. The wires will lead you to it.

 

[BigPapa]

DavidC where would the solenoid coil be?

The coils are the big round part of the solenoid you see on top.

 

[DavidC]

The coils are the big round part of the solenoid you see on top.

Thanks for the help Scott.
There are several types on amazon, don't know if they will work but worth a look maybe
https://www.amazon.com/cummins-fuel-shut-off-solenoid/s?k=cummins+fuel+shut+off+solenoid

 

[GAmes]

When did the FSS get so cheap? One thing to look for is the spacing of the two mounting bolts. That is why some come with a bracket, it's just in case yours doesn't match.

 

[jpogue]

GAmes I hear you on the price. I remember getting the one I got from ebay simply because of the price. I'm hesitant about just replacing the solenoid is there a way to test the coil or the relay for the solenoid? I don't want to replace it and burn that one up too if the problem is somewhere else.

 

[DavidC]

You can check voltage at the solenoid when installed, make sure it is 12-14vdc and the mechanism moves freely.

 

[jpogue]

OK I still have the old one for some reason. I know it still worked but it got stuck sometimes. So I plugged in the old one and turned the key. It didn't pull up the plunger. I could manually push up the plunger and it would stay up until I turned off the key. There is 12.5 volts on the plug

 

[DavidC]

I looked through the old posts. It is possible your Ignition switch and plug may have caused your problem. Make sure there is no voltage to the solenoid when shut off and di-electric grease any pins/blades on the plug.

 

[jpogue]

Yes tested the solenoid plug there's no voltage when the key is off. I'm still thinking the dealership did something to start this shorting issue. Somehow they tested the ignition switch.

 

[jpogue]

So I hooked the solenoid on the truck back up and it lifts the solenoid and starts. I let run for a few seconds and turned off. I noticed that the relay by the firewall wasn't completely plugged in. I'd like to quote what the tech said maybe you guys might know how he "pinpointed" the problem. "Inspect, check dtc's, found dtc78 foundation brake active in ABS module, performed pinpoint test and found ignition switch failed, burnt connector." Thank you

 

[jpogue]

I'm going to try starting again and running for a while to see if the loose relay had something to do with it. Worst case scenario the fuse blows. I've got plenty of them

 

[jpogue]

OK started and ran a little over 5 minutes and blew the fuse.

 

[DavidC]

OK started and ran a little over 5 minutes and blew the fuse.

Order up a FSS