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Help truck shut off on highway

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What kind of morphodite

Transmission questions

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Thanks again everyone for all of your help. Found one at local Orielly's not as cheap as amazon but I can't wait a week. This whole virus thing has really screwed up shipping times.
 
I noticed that the relay by the firewall wasn't completely plugged in.

The relay run off fuse #9 is for the "hold up" side of the solenoid. The "pull up" relay is on the firewall and is powered from fuse #2 in the PDC when the starter is engaged.

I know you’re looking for anything, but you’re blowing fuse #9, it has nothing to do with the relay on the firewall.
 
Thank you Scott and yes I was looking for the easiest fix. It's been a long 6 weeks of different issues. The truck has been so reliable for the last 19 years and now all of a sudden every simple project runs into something else.
 
When I was at the motorcycle shop, I put together a “Wench Kit”, a pair of Daisy Dukes and a halter top....
 
You guys are funny. Didn't get to the solenoid today had a full plate. Might get to it after walking the dog
 
OK guys FSS replaced and fired up. As of now 19 minutes and counting still running no fuse blown yet. I'm going to let it idle for a full 30 minutes before I call it good then I'll drive it up and down the driveway before I venture out down the hill and on the road. Thank you everyone for your help. Will update later today.
 
Make sure you adjusted the rod to the correct length so you get full travel on the lever. If it's not the right length, the lever won't open the fuel fully and you'll be missing some HP's.

Just for gins and giggles, check resistance on the old solenoid and the new one. The wires on your new solenoid won't be the colors I list but the wires on the harness side will and you can go from that.

Just disconnect the connector and on the solenoid side of the connector check between the terminal that goes to the Tan wire (Ground) on the harness side and the other two wires. The Violet Wire on the harness side is the "Pull-up" coil and the Black wire is the "Hold-up/Run" coil. Let us know what you find.

Glad you got it taken care of.
 
I let it run for a little over 40 minutes and made a few trips up and down the driveway. I'll check the resistance levels and report back. Thanks again everyone for the help.
 
I let it run for a little over 40 minutes and made a few trips up and down the driveway so far so good. I'll check the resistance next and report back. Thanks for the help everyone I appreciate it
 
That was good diagnostic work, really, not used the parts gun at the first attempt.
And you also have now a working ignition switch that was also bad.
 
Thanks Ozymandias a test of my patience for sure. Not much difference in the resistance pretty much the same on the hold up circuit and I think on the pull up circuit the old one was higher by 2 ohms. I'll do it again and write down the results. I've got a lot of other projects going on right now so bouncing from one thing to another not to mention the kid being on summer vacation telling me she's hungry or bored. However when I point to the weed eater she's not so bored anymore.
 
Once again thank you guys for your help. Ozymandias if you look at my brake thread I found the reason for the mysterious wheel hop coming from the rear.
 
I know you’re looking for anything, but you’re blowing fuse #9, it has nothing to do with the relay on the firewall.
Yes, just unhook it, pull the lever up and tie it off or remove the pin and pull the lever up. Just need to realize the lever will have to be turned down to shut the truck off. The relay run off fuse #9 is for the "hold up" side of the solenoid. The "pull up" relay is on the firewall and is powered from fuse #2 in the PDC when the starter is engaged.
Greetings
Looking at the posts and maybe you can help me. My Fuel Shut Off quick working for start up. I could pull up on it manually and it would engage and start and cut off was normal. I thought the solenoid was bad because years earlier the rubber boot desengrated and I thought that had someting to do with it. However I ordered a new one , installed it and its doing the dame thing. TUrn on key will not pull up unless do it manual. the truck will run fine till i turn key off. What do I need to check ? Fuse 9? Fuse 2? Whats FSS?
ALso prior to this problem the TPS was acting up by not allowing to go into overdrive. I could shut off engine and restart( this was prior to the Fuel Solenoid quit working) and it would go into overdrive. Saw you had knowledgable responses so i thought I would ask here also willl try to send a PM, 1996 3500 First Gen 12valve
 
I replied to your PM.

I'm not one to just throw parts at an issue, but for a cheap, easy, first try at fixing it, I'd suggest replacing the relay for the "Pull-up" circuit. It is on the firewall just above and toward the center from the brake booster. You can use a 25-0102 from O'Reilly's but it doesn't have the bracket on it. Geno's also sells it:

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/lb-ss70a/electrical-switches-2

As to the TPS, they're well known for going bad. I replaced mine SEVERAL times before converting to an NV4500 in my '95. There's really no adjustment to it and no good way to clean it. Also, check your brake light switch on the pedal. I replaced it several times, also. Some have had success re-adjusting it, but it's designed as a "one-time" setup and not adjustable. If you get another, be very careful you don't push the plunger in before installing it and letting it self adjust.

FSS is Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. I wouldn't worry about the boot, just make sure it's jamming the plunger. I ran mine without the boot for a few hundred thousand miles with no issues.
 
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