Archived Help, turbo bolts won't come out.

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

I 'm putting in a 16cm turbo housing in my 91, and drilling and tapping for an EGT probe at the same time. Everything was going O. k. until I tried taking the hot end off the turbo, the two bolts with the least clearance won't come off. I've got to the point where they are starting to booger and I don't know what to do??

Help







Steve

 

[mberry]

About the only thing I can suggest would be to start the truck up and let the turbo warm up a little. I would put the turbo back together before you tried this. That's how we used to get frozen bolts out of the exhaust manifolds.



I'm sure someone here will have a better suggestion.

 

[Alan Reagan]

There is a product called Kroil that is used to free up rusted bolts. It is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Put it on, let it sit then try to loosen the bolts.

 

[Lnwing]

There is a product called Kroil that is used to free up rusted bolts. It is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Put it on, let it sit then try to loosen the bolts.

This stuff does work .

 

[CAROLINA CUMMINS]

Where do you get it ??

 

[rkressg]

PB Blaster

 

[Alan Reagan]

The last time I bought some, I got it a NAPA. PB Blaster is a good alternative and it works good too. Make sure to give it time to penetrate before putting a wrench to it.

 

[Lnwing]

Kroil/Aero Kroil

I've used many cases of this over the last 30 years, but have never seen it for sale locally. Always had it shipped direct.



Here's the web site:http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

[Loren]

I've had good luck with Break Free CLP. It's available at gun shops. It's sold as a gun Cleaner, Lubricant, and Protectant (CLP), but it works wonders on rusty bolts too.



Good luck.



Loren

 

[Ben Rumson]

PB Blaster (aka "Panther Pi@#")

is my choice for really tuff stuff. Walmart carries it for around $4 per aerosol can.



If you do decide to reassemble and get the bolts HOT... and old trick we used on the farm was to heat the nut with a torch and then douse it with cold water while it was hot. For some reason this helped break the parts loose. If you do this, be sure not to douse the main turbo housing and try and just get the bolts with the cold water.



Best of luck!



- Ben

 

[MidwestMotorman]

tricks

The tricks above are really helpful. If you soak them in penetrating oil, at least do it overnight if possible. The heat and splash trick works (works really nice on studs in flywheels when it comes time to resurface), but WD-40 in a spray can is the best over water. You can aim it directly at the source without damage to everything around it. You may have to get a small cutoff wheel and cut the nut/bolt end off and then clamp on the stud.



Good luck.

 

[Extreme1]

I had the same problem when I installed my 14 housing. I used a hammer on the wrench. It was a major pain, one of the more stubborn bolts I removed in the last 25 or so years.



If that doesn't work, use an acetylene or MAPP gas torch, propane is for grills!! ( :-{} flame away )



How a torch works to remove a stubborn rusty bolt in most cases: the torch gets the oxides (rust) hot enough that it vaporizes (burns off) before the steel (or other ferritic type of material) gets too close to melting. The problem with doing this to your old housing is that it is a big heat sink and will require a considerable amount of heat to get the oxidized area (threads) hot enough. When it does get hot enough, the whole turbo will be (as Jim Carrey said in The Mask) "Smokin'!". This could be bad for the rest of the turbo so if you try it, don't blame me if you wreck it.



More bad news: the bolts on mine cam off a lot easier than the housing...

 

[Hohn]

KROIL and PB Blaster

I have had outstanding results with BOTH KROIL and PB Blaster. If you can't find KROIL somewhere locally, I know that the Eastwood Company carries it, and a bunch of other hard-to-find items.



http://eastwoodco.com/











HTH



HOHN