It's inside the pump. It is possible to crank it up (the fuel) without taking the pump off, but it's not easy.
Method #1: Remove air cleaner and injection pump top cover. Remove the governor guide stud, which screws into the pump just above the injection lines. It's either a 7/16 wrench or a 1/4 allen wrench or 3/16 allen.
After you take this loose, you can remove the governor by rotating the throttle lever to WOT, and lifting the governor assembly out (it's a small, spring loaded block and hollow bolt assembly, with a small idle spring on the end) as you turn it.
Then, you'll find a small round hole underneath where the governnor was. If you rotate the engine very slowly, you'll be able to look through that hole with a flashlight until an allen head screw is visible in the hole. TIGHTEN that screw for more fuel. Do not turn more than 1/4 turn on the screw, and preferrably less. 12 PSI boost on that engine is a LOT!!! Beware head gaskets blowing, etc.
Please note: This is NOT easy to do, especially on a hot engine, and further, the working space around the intake is extremely limited.
Replace the governor by reversing the procedure. When you put the cover back on, notice that the shut-off arm MUST go "behind" the protrusion on the governor arm. It is spring loaded and the two springs (solenoid and governor) oppose each other. If you force it in on the wrong side, when the engine starts, it will accelerate until mechanical failure stops it. RRRRRRRREEEEEEEEE BOOOOMMMM!!!!!! Clank, clank. drip drip.
"YOU JERK!!! YOU OWE ME AN ENGINE!!!".
Ok, so, if you're going to use that method... be VERY aware of what you're doing, or the above scenario won't seem in the least bit funny.
Method #2.
Remove intake manifold and with the space revealed, remove the side cover on the pump (1/4 inch end wrench - 2 small screws). Using a tiny mirror and a light, again, turn the engine until you see the hex-head screw and rotate it.
Again, tightening the screw (normal threads, righty-tighty, lefty-loosy) will get you more fuel.
Replacing the cover is a pain, but at least, if you mess up, it only leaks.
Also, be aware that this exposes all 8 intake ports to junk falling into them (dirt, nuts, studs, washers, loose gravel resting on the engine, manifold parts, etc), and that you'll probably need a set of new intake manifold gaskets. ALWAYS get a "heavy duty engine" set, which blocks off the EGR. You might wish to steam clean the engine very carefully before you try this.
Also, a flexible magnet is handy for retrieving the side plate or it's screws from the engine valley under the pump. Your chances of dropping at least one are better than Bill Clinton getting lucky in a White House full of fawning interns, so be prepared.
In all probability, the engine will benefit from slightly advancing the injection timing (rotate the pump in the slots) by loosening the pump's 3 mounting bolts and shoving it over in the advanced position. (I think that's top of pump toward driver side, if memory serves) Move it in 1/16ths of an inch. Too much advance will assist in renovating the head gasket design, placing custom openings between cylinders or between the cylinder and water jacket. It will sound harsh, AND will generate dark smoke under power that wasn't caused by more fuel.
Also, you MAY be able to remove the side plate and adjust the fuel without removing the intake. It is, however, without much room for working.
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ICQ 3807791 Power Wagon
www.my2kcity.com/powerwagon
Mark Koskenmaki, General Diesel Moderator
[This message has been edited by Power Wagon (edited 03-01-2001). ]
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