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HELP!

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Door adjustment?

The dreaded "death wobble" and how to get rid of it

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Got my new Rancho 9000 shocks and steering stabilizer today. Shocks went on very easy. I can't get that *%$#% tapered bolt out in order to put in the new stabilizer. Any easy home grown ways to get it out or do I have to go down to NAPA and buy a special tool that I use one time??? Thanks guys...
 
Sorry no help here, but was thinking of replacing my original and was wondering if the Rancho's come with the same tapered bolt?

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2001 2500,AUTO QC,4x4,SWB,SLT PLUS W/LEATHER,HEATED SEATS,PWR ALL THE WAY,4:10 LSD,PERFORMER IAS, WARN,MAG-HYTEC DC&TRANS DD,TRUCK TRUNK BOX,KC,PATRIOT BLUE W/AGATE INT.
 
I heated mine. I beat on it. I used a pickle fork. I soaked it in penetrating oil. I left the nut off for 3000 miles hoping it would work loose. I used a two arm puller. And it still wouldn't move. Then I took the advice of a few members and bought a pitman arm puller for 11. 00. Five minutes later it was off. Thanks guys.

Bob

[This message has been edited by RA Dreher (edited 05-15-2001). ]
 
The stabilizer I got is a Skyjacker. It has a tapered bolt that replaces the old one. It is a different style bolt that has a stud to fit an eye with a bushing. There is an eye on both ends of the stabilizer so that the tapered bolt won't have to be pulled again to change the stabilizer next time.
 
Thanks RA, that sounds cheap enough. Who knows, maybe I'll have to pull a pitman arm someday!

[This message has been edited by Dieselnerd (edited 05-15-2001). ]
 
That was my thought , also. It's funny how many times the "right tool for the job" is one that was designed for something else. I can't imagine the day I have too many tools.

Bob
 
A pitman arm puller is also excellent for removing the lower ball joint without damage on most front wheel drive cars. Removing the lower joint is the hardest part of replacing the CV joints on many cars, a part that seems to go out often due to torn boots. With a puller and less than an hour of easy work you can replace an entire front drive axle with a rebuilt for around $100, most shops will charge you over $300.
 
Thank you so much!! I went out and got a pitman arm puller this morning. It was a tight fit with the track bar so close and all but after I put a strain on the tool, it actually let go with a bang and fell out. It was almost like I broke a weld. Another problem solved with the help of the TDR gang!
 
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