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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Help!!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Filter change interval

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need alignment specs. ASAP

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I just put the #4 plate and AFC springs in and took a test drive. I've got no power from a dead stop, nothing. Once i reach ~20 mph, this thing belchs a light grey cloud of smoke and takes off. I mean it really moves! I put the plate in the middle of it's adjustment, used the "light" spring from the AFC kit and the star wheel is full forward.



Any suggestions on getting the low end power back? I'm holding off on the GSK and 16cm housing till this weekend but i believe i should have at least as much power from the start as i did stock...



Thanks!

Brian
 
Kieth noted that it's real easy to get the plate installed a little crooked and the AFC arm will bind in the groove in the plate. I dug into it again and found this to be true so i fixed that. I then tackled the lever adjustment. PITA is an understatement. I had to turn the screw about 3 turns counter clockwise (out) to get it to rise up on the lobe of the fuel plate. Piers instructions says to make small adjustments but i had to really turn it to get it to ride up on the plate. I hope this is correct?
 
OK, i've got more low end power but still not as much as stock. There is still the sudden surge of power around 20 mph and the boost gage goes from 0-30 in 1/2 a second(gage stops at 30 so it could be more). Star wheel still full forward and the housing is full forward. Lever is adjusted so it makes contact with the point on the cam plate and will ease up the lobe as the pedal is pushed further.



Any other ideas what i'm doing wrong???



Thanks

Brian
 
slow acceleration

When you installed the afc spring kit, did you adjust the screw on the afc housing, that touches the diaphram inside, if that is not adjusted properly, you will have no pre-boost fuel and it will be slow to accelerate. The way you made it sound it does not smoke, until the lever rides up the camplate, correct? Turn that screw in on the afc housing a couple of turns and test drive to see if that changes anything. ;)
 
I believe i adjusted it correctly? I loosened the nut and used an allen wrench to back the screw away from the diaframe. Then i turned it in by hand till it made contact again and tightened the nut up. Do i wnat it not touching the diaframe or should it have some pressure against it? Perhaps i'll double check it again...



The smoke i do get is dark gray, not the black that i expected. If i understand this right, that means i'm not putting out too much un-burnt fuel. Black smoke means un-burnt fuel, right?



Thanks!!

Brian
 
accelertion

You should turn that screw in 2 full turns so there is tension on the diaphram and this will give you more pre boost fuel, it may take up to 4 full turns to get it set right, this will take care of your dead spot, if it doesn't, check to make sure your boost line going to your afc housing is tight and not leaking boost pressure, this will make it slow to accelerate also. :)
 
Bhale ,



nfox hit it on the head. If the setscrew on the back of the afc is just touching the diaphram (like the instructions say) your truck will be FLAT on the low end. Turn it in a couple of turns. You won't believe the difference.



Originally posted by Bhale

Would moving the star wheel backwards (or the AFC housing) have the same effect?



Nope. Make sure your AFC is slid all the way towards the front of the engine. Starwheel fully retracted.
 
Brian,,I am in York,PA and can give you a hand getting sorted out if you need it,,I am now on vacation for the next two weeks and other than going out to western PA on Sunday for Sled Pullers show I'll be around the rest of the time,,I'll PM a number for you to reach me at if you want a hand... ... ... . Andy
 
OK, i put a couple turns on the screw(1st 2, then one more and then one more again total of 4) and gained some low end power. Still not what i expected. It won't break the tires loose from a stop and i'm thinking it should. I might try moving the plate forward . 030-. 040 more and see what that does. I'm guessing that i should get this issue resolved before i put the housing and GSK in?



Also, how much boost should i expect? It pins the 30 pound gage i have now with the stock housing and the wastegate plugged. The new housing is non-wastgated. Time for a new gage?? :confused:



Thanks



Brian
 
fuel pressure

One more thing you might to check is your fuel pressure to make sure your overflo valve is good. :cool:
 
Can i hook a fuel gage up the one of the two ports on my Primelock? There are 2 plugs on the front, which should i use? How much pressure should i see?



I replaced the overflow valve about 3 years ago. The spring in the old one broke and the truck wouldn't idle. Is that the only thing that happens to them or do they "wear-out"? If i remember correctly, that thing was $70... :{



Brian
 
Make sure the fuel selenoid is picked up & held up before you adjust the lever. As far as boost, I called TST a while back and the lady answering told me all TST kits use the same boost elbow, and it is adjusted for 13lbs. above stock boost, for all kits. I screwed the allen screw on the elbow all the way in, and can hit 35lbs, & 1400 deg, with a #8 plate, almost instantly. I did have low power problems after installing the 3k GSK, but fixed that with a simple lever adjustment.
 
gov. lever adj.

I has installed a 3k GSK a couple of months ago and i'm still running a stock camplate, do i need to check adj. on the gov. lever? Where should it hit the stock camplate?:confused:
 
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