Here is my Cummins to IH project.

[T. Baker]

This is a coppy of the post I put on the 94-98 12valve forum.

I have a '96 Doge Cummins 5. 9 that is going to repower my IH pick up. I have an Advanced Adaptors Ranger gear splitter over drive feeding into a GM SM 420 truck 4 speed and a rear axel ratio and 235/85r16 tires that will give 60 mph at 1780 rpm. This drive line is maybe somewhat delicate to make more power with but if I use the power mostly in direct in the gear boxes and am careful I should still be able to enjoy some upgrading and if I do break something I can upgrade that. This is not a towing rig. I guess I'm going down the "addiction to power" slippery slope!

I would like to try to buy things that will work for me now and also if I decide to go further. The first thing that looks good is a 3K GSK. Then a cam plate. Then it looks like to use much power over 2500 rpm I might need to go with a bigger turbine housing like the 14 cm. I still want to keep bottom end torque. I think I don't want to go over 675 lb-ft of torque yet... . But I would like to keep some of that torque to the higher rpms that's why I thought of a bigger turbine housing and GSK kit. By the way I already have a Pyrometer and boost gauge and an intercooler from a '92 dodge Cummins on the truck. It has a Nissan turbo diesel now that is coming out. I was running that little 3. 3 liter prechamber engine with 18 psi of boost and 800 deg egt after turbo egt. max but the pistons don't hold up. The compression ratio is 20. 5 - 1 and the pistons crack that's why I am installing the 5. 9. I have and will use a intercooler out of a Ford Power Stroke and it is allot bigger than the one that's in there now! Also I will be doing my own exhaust in 3. 5"- 4" strait pipe. I am considering changing axel ratio from 3. 73 to 3. 08 to even lower my highway rpm to take advantage of fuel economy. But I do want the option of putting it in direct and really accelerating.

I was considering buying a South Bend Clutch which they said would really hold to some serious power and it costs too. A stock GM diesel clutch will hold up to 675 lb-ft before it slips and I thought that the clutch slip might not be such a bad idea if it saves me from twisting off the input shaft on the transmission!

I am not sure yet whether the engine I have was an auto or stick engine but will find out soon. Could that affect whether I need to replace the injectors or not? I was hopping I could hold off on that till later.

I would be very happy to have any ideas you have especially as to turbine housing upgrades and potential hp possible with these upgrades or others I should consider.

Thank you,

Treven.

 

[Sled Puller]

What year IH?



I thought the 1970 IH would be a canidate for an 8. 3.

Super mod puller!

 

[T. Baker]

It is a 1980 Terra pick up 4x4. Like a Scout but 18" longer.

 

[Sled Puller]

Ahhh, a rare vehicle that Terra. Rarer yet withe Nissan. Only about 10,000 Scouts had NTD in 1980.

I was talking fullsize IH.





How excatly is a 5. 9 going to fit in that thing? and the radiator?



That is a lot of TQ to put on that drivetrain!

 

[T. Baker]

It is only 3" longer than the Nissan and + 200 lbs. I am not going to use that big fan thats on the dodge either so that will save 4 + inches. Like I said I'm not going to tow with it so the dana 44 should be fine for highway use. I should spin the tires before it breaks especialy in an empty pick up. I have a big four core radiator and the big intercooler from the powerer stroke is going in to replace the Doge IC in there now. If it was too easy it would't be cool. I've done my homwork on this and I don't think I have missed anthing but talk is cheap! I am prepared for lots of people telling me it can't be done! Bring it on!

 

[Sled Puller]

2wd?

That simplifies things, all my Scouts were 4x4.



Won't be too hard to swap a Dana 80 in there in the future.



More spring, and a body lift? Surely the Cummins is deeper through?

I saw one with a 6. 2 Chevy in it what fer, I have no idea.



A bit more sound insulation would be in line!



I think it will be sweet when you are fiinished.

 

[Scot]

I am told that I can make nearly 300 hp with a 16cm^2 housing and a fuel plate on my '94 160 hp engine. I think I will also put in the GSK kit and 370's just to make sure!

 

[pcorssmit]

I'd look into upgrading the rear end. You could problably find a semi-floater Dana 60 with the 5 on 5 1/2" pattern in a width that would work for you, but it would take some looking. My preference would be to go with a full float rear, though. I'm not sure how wide your current rear is, but this may help: Cab & Chassis GM 14 bolts are about 62" wide (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface). I think there were also similarly narrow Dana 60s and 70s made, but not sure what they would have come in.



(Assuming this is a 4x4)

If you want to keep the Dana 44 front, it is an easy deal to convert it to 8 lug to match a full floater rear end. Just swap everything from the ball joints out with the 8 lug Dana 44 of your choice. An added bonus is bigger brakes. And yes you can run 15" wheels on 3/4 and 1 ton axles with a little work with the grinder.



Pete

 

[Brian R]

Ignore the naysayers. Anything can be done if you want it bad enough. I've put an Audi engine in the back seat of a Bug, converted a Mazda rotary truck to 4x4 with a Ford 302 and drove a Mitsubishi pickup with three different Ford 5. 0's for 6 years. When it left it had EFI, 4WDB, R&P steering, etc. I've seen pictures of an Allison V12 aircraft motor in a BMW Isetta (yes, the one cylinder micro car from the 50's)

 

[T. Baker]

Thanks for the support Brian! I'll update this as things progress.

Treven.