Attention: TDR Forum Junkies LONG!!!! You've been warned
OK Bob you asked for it but it’s going to cost ya
Okay guys there is not much to tell other than I haven’t destroyed anything…. yet .
I have been waiting for some new injectors before I turned up the pump. I’m still at the stock pump settings with the exception of advancing the timing some. I have not dared turn up the pump with the POD injectors. They smoked so badly at the stock pump settings it was only a matter of time before I got ticketed. The area I live in is not very tolerant of such things. I put the new injectors in yesterday and I’m very pleased to say the idle smoke issue is a thing of the past. I want to put some time on the new injectors before I comment too much. I still need to do the 32k governor spring as well.
Okay here is the setup:
Small turbo- HY35 from a 2001
Big turbo- BHT3E. This turbo is a reverse scroll from the H1, HX, HY and has a machined flange on the cold side outlet. 23cm housing
The exhaust manifold is flipped upside down to raise the HY high enough to squeeze the BHT3E under it. I match ported the manifold to HY housing. I found it interesting that the new exhaust manifold intake ports are larger than the exhaust ports in the head. I didn’t touch that side.
There is a spacer between the HY and the manifold. This serves two purposes, first to create some clearance between the turbo and engine and second to be able to add a divorced waste gate if needed. The spacer is also port matched. The spacer was made from T3 flanges stacked and welded together. This is a more expensive way to go vs. machining one myself but it saved me some time.
I need to backup and explain the layout and fitting process. Since I don’t have the luxury of a second vehicle I couldn’t have my truck down for more than a weekend at a time so thee was no way I could fit and build on the truck. The way around this was to get a new exhaust manifold and mount it on a rack in the same position it would mount on the engine. For this I got some ¾” pipe and pipe flanges which I screwed to my workbench. The manifold was then bolted to the pipe high enough to mock up the turbo’s. With the manifold in place I took measurements of the engine and engine bay and made reference lines on the workbench. Now all I had to do was make it all fit.
All of the examples I had seen on 2nd gens had removed the heat exchanger to make room for the second turbo. I did not want to do this. Another obstacle was one of the AC lines runs through this area. My goal was to not make any permanent or major modifications to the truck so if the experiment failed it would be easy to reverse. This leaves very little room to get the 4” down pipe through.
Next I made a mockup of the BHT3E by cutting out cardboard silhouettes of the exhaust and compressor housings and mounting them on a cardboard tube. This gave me an idea of where the turbo had to be placed in relation to the engine. Taking measurements of the cardboard turbo mockup position I was able to make a cradle for the turbo to set in and position it accordingly to the rack mounted manifold. Now all that had to be done was connect the two exhaust housings. This is where I ran into my first set of problems.
Of the 2nd gen examples I had seen some adapter flanges were mounted with v-band clamps and others were welded to the exhaust housing back plate. I was not comfortable hanging that much weight in such a manner. Another issue is the distance from the outlet of the small turbo to the firewall. The big turbo has to be as close as possible to the small turbo for the exhaust clear the firewall. To accomplish this I had a steel fabricator I know bend me an angle bracket out of 3/8” steel. The angle serves as the back plate of the HY35 and mounting flange for the BHT3E. I drilled and machined the holes in the angle for the exhaust and welded in a short radius schedule 40 butt weld 90 and a short piece of schedule 40 pipe. This made a very strong compact connection.
The cold piping is pretty straightforward. Because I decided to use a TurboMaster as the boost controller the position of the HY35s compressor housing is fixed in relation to the exhaust housing. The BHT3E compressor housing is positioned to keep the run to the HY35 as short as possible. I could have gotten an OEM elbow for the BHT3E but they have a 4” outlet and I wanted to stay with 3” pipe to keep it compact. 4” would work fine. By staying with 3” I had the choice of cutting off the flange on the compressor or making an adapter. I opted for the adapter.
The oil supply for the HY35 needs no modification and the BHT3E is fed from the plugged 1/8 NPT port on top of the oil filter housing.
For the oil drains the HY35 is extended with some 7/8” hose. The BHT3E is supposed to drain into the pan. A ¾ NPT bung has to be installed in the pan for this. Now this is a little embarrassing. I went to the trouble to lift the engine enough to remove the pan, make a bung and have it welded in. I’ve done a fair bit of Tig welding but all I had was a borrowed Mig welder and well…. somehow when I welded in the bung I managed to fuse the pipe plug to the bung. ARRRG! To fix this I need to drop the pan again. :{ I discovered this during the install and didn’t have time to pull the pan again so currently both turbos drain to the same inlet. So far so good but I’ll feel better when I get it done properly.
The hose from the HY35 to the intercooler is a marine exhaust hose. Heavy duty, rated to 300psi, it works very well and was simple to do. The down pipe is another story and I don’t think I could explain it in writing. All I’ll say is there are some interesting angles involved and the clearance is about ¼” The fill tube for the transmission has to be rotated closer to the firewall. Making an extension for the mounting strap on the filler tube and removing or cutting the insulating cover on the heater box does this. The air intake is made from 4-1/2” exhaust tubing and rubber elbows. Topped off with the largest aFe cone filter I could get.
Still awake? Good
Now why did I do this on a under fueled truck? I wanted to see if it would work. And if it was possible to have the quick spool up of a small housing turbo and not choke the top end. Here are the results so far. All at the same stock pump settings with the truck lightly loaded.
PODs, HX35/16cm- Max boost 26psi, Max EGT 1100 Smoke at idle and heavy under any acceleration, light haze all other times.
PODs, HY35/BHT3E, Waste gate on HY35 set to open at 20psi- Max boost 40psi, Max EGT 900 Smoke at idle, light haze under moderate acceleration, some dark smoke under heavy acceleration but cleared up quickly.
EDM injectors, HY35/BHT3E, Waste gate on HY35 set to open at 20psi- Max boost 36psi (so far), Max EGT 875 (so far) No smoke at idle, Light haze at moderate to heavy acceleration, clears quickly.
The EDMs out accelerate the PODs hands down and are screaming for more fuel. The top end is suffering from lack of fuel. With the stock pump settings I can’t make enough heat to properly spool the BHT3E. I’m not sure I ever will. Time will tell. Another thing about the EDMs is they are much smoother than the PODs and don’t hesitate when you mash the throttle. I will post more results as I do more tuning. I hope to get on a dyno in the next couple of months.
I’ll stop now (crowd cheers!) Oo.
Jay
OK Bob you asked for it but it’s going to cost ya
Okay guys there is not much to tell other than I haven’t destroyed anything…. yet .
I have been waiting for some new injectors before I turned up the pump. I’m still at the stock pump settings with the exception of advancing the timing some. I have not dared turn up the pump with the POD injectors. They smoked so badly at the stock pump settings it was only a matter of time before I got ticketed. The area I live in is not very tolerant of such things. I put the new injectors in yesterday and I’m very pleased to say the idle smoke issue is a thing of the past. I want to put some time on the new injectors before I comment too much. I still need to do the 32k governor spring as well. Okay here is the setup:
Small turbo- HY35 from a 2001
Big turbo- BHT3E. This turbo is a reverse scroll from the H1, HX, HY and has a machined flange on the cold side outlet. 23cm housing
The exhaust manifold is flipped upside down to raise the HY high enough to squeeze the BHT3E under it. I match ported the manifold to HY housing. I found it interesting that the new exhaust manifold intake ports are larger than the exhaust ports in the head. I didn’t touch that side.
There is a spacer between the HY and the manifold. This serves two purposes, first to create some clearance between the turbo and engine and second to be able to add a divorced waste gate if needed. The spacer is also port matched. The spacer was made from T3 flanges stacked and welded together. This is a more expensive way to go vs. machining one myself but it saved me some time.
I need to backup and explain the layout and fitting process. Since I don’t have the luxury of a second vehicle I couldn’t have my truck down for more than a weekend at a time so thee was no way I could fit and build on the truck. The way around this was to get a new exhaust manifold and mount it on a rack in the same position it would mount on the engine. For this I got some ¾” pipe and pipe flanges which I screwed to my workbench. The manifold was then bolted to the pipe high enough to mock up the turbo’s. With the manifold in place I took measurements of the engine and engine bay and made reference lines on the workbench. Now all I had to do was make it all fit.
All of the examples I had seen on 2nd gens had removed the heat exchanger to make room for the second turbo. I did not want to do this. Another obstacle was one of the AC lines runs through this area. My goal was to not make any permanent or major modifications to the truck so if the experiment failed it would be easy to reverse. This leaves very little room to get the 4” down pipe through.
Next I made a mockup of the BHT3E by cutting out cardboard silhouettes of the exhaust and compressor housings and mounting them on a cardboard tube. This gave me an idea of where the turbo had to be placed in relation to the engine. Taking measurements of the cardboard turbo mockup position I was able to make a cradle for the turbo to set in and position it accordingly to the rack mounted manifold. Now all that had to be done was connect the two exhaust housings. This is where I ran into my first set of problems.
Of the 2nd gen examples I had seen some adapter flanges were mounted with v-band clamps and others were welded to the exhaust housing back plate. I was not comfortable hanging that much weight in such a manner. Another issue is the distance from the outlet of the small turbo to the firewall. The big turbo has to be as close as possible to the small turbo for the exhaust clear the firewall. To accomplish this I had a steel fabricator I know bend me an angle bracket out of 3/8” steel. The angle serves as the back plate of the HY35 and mounting flange for the BHT3E. I drilled and machined the holes in the angle for the exhaust and welded in a short radius schedule 40 butt weld 90 and a short piece of schedule 40 pipe. This made a very strong compact connection.
The cold piping is pretty straightforward. Because I decided to use a TurboMaster as the boost controller the position of the HY35s compressor housing is fixed in relation to the exhaust housing. The BHT3E compressor housing is positioned to keep the run to the HY35 as short as possible. I could have gotten an OEM elbow for the BHT3E but they have a 4” outlet and I wanted to stay with 3” pipe to keep it compact. 4” would work fine. By staying with 3” I had the choice of cutting off the flange on the compressor or making an adapter. I opted for the adapter.
The oil supply for the HY35 needs no modification and the BHT3E is fed from the plugged 1/8 NPT port on top of the oil filter housing.
For the oil drains the HY35 is extended with some 7/8” hose. The BHT3E is supposed to drain into the pan. A ¾ NPT bung has to be installed in the pan for this. Now this is a little embarrassing. I went to the trouble to lift the engine enough to remove the pan, make a bung and have it welded in. I’ve done a fair bit of Tig welding but all I had was a borrowed Mig welder and well…. somehow when I welded in the bung I managed to fuse the pipe plug to the bung. ARRRG! To fix this I need to drop the pan again. :{ I discovered this during the install and didn’t have time to pull the pan again so currently both turbos drain to the same inlet. So far so good but I’ll feel better when I get it done properly.
The hose from the HY35 to the intercooler is a marine exhaust hose. Heavy duty, rated to 300psi, it works very well and was simple to do. The down pipe is another story and I don’t think I could explain it in writing. All I’ll say is there are some interesting angles involved and the clearance is about ¼” The fill tube for the transmission has to be rotated closer to the firewall. Making an extension for the mounting strap on the filler tube and removing or cutting the insulating cover on the heater box does this. The air intake is made from 4-1/2” exhaust tubing and rubber elbows. Topped off with the largest aFe cone filter I could get.
Still awake? Good
Now why did I do this on a under fueled truck? I wanted to see if it would work. And if it was possible to have the quick spool up of a small housing turbo and not choke the top end. Here are the results so far. All at the same stock pump settings with the truck lightly loaded.
PODs, HX35/16cm- Max boost 26psi, Max EGT 1100 Smoke at idle and heavy under any acceleration, light haze all other times.
PODs, HY35/BHT3E, Waste gate on HY35 set to open at 20psi- Max boost 40psi, Max EGT 900 Smoke at idle, light haze under moderate acceleration, some dark smoke under heavy acceleration but cleared up quickly.
EDM injectors, HY35/BHT3E, Waste gate on HY35 set to open at 20psi- Max boost 36psi (so far), Max EGT 875 (so far) No smoke at idle, Light haze at moderate to heavy acceleration, clears quickly.
The EDMs out accelerate the PODs hands down and are screaming for more fuel. The top end is suffering from lack of fuel. With the stock pump settings I can’t make enough heat to properly spool the BHT3E. I’m not sure I ever will. Time will tell. Another thing about the EDMs is they are much smoother than the PODs and don’t hesitate when you mash the throttle. I will post more results as I do more tuning. I hope to get on a dyno in the next couple of months.
I’ll stop now (crowd cheers!) Oo.
Jay
