Here I am

Hey Keeno,

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Ball joints on a W250

Fan idler bearings?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I ended up taking your advice and bought the Skyjacker 2. 5” kit front and rear with shocks and hardware …a whole pile of stuff in the garage and a steering stabilizer on the way …. Only one thing, no instructions. I was planning on greasing up the two piece bushings and sleeves real good with lithium grease, but wasn’t sure how tight to torque the u bolts. I assume around 100 foot pounds, drive about 500 miles and re-torque again is my plan so far, any advice on the steps of installation from your experience would be appreciated.

Thanks JJ
 
Hey jjohn!:)



I'm in Fla. on vacation and haven't checked the TDR in a week! Logged in... & saw your posting.



The SJ install is pretty straight forward but a couple of tips. On some of the later trucks Dodge used a larger front shackle bolt then on some of the earlier trucks. If this is the case w/ yours... you will not be able to use the steel inserts that slide into the urethane bushings. SJ suggest installing w/o the steel instert & using the urethane bushings alone (this is what I had to do). The only problem w/ this is that now the spring hanger has nothing to stop it from compressing as you torque the bolt. 100 ft/lbs will definitely deform the front hanger if the insert isn't used and a lower torque figure is needed along w/ loctite.



Give Mickey a call @ SJ and ask what the appropriate torque is & why you didn't get any instructions. I don't have the info w/ me here in Fla.



C'ya on Monday... . I hope this helps!



Tim "KEENO" Keen:D
 
Thanks for taking time out on vacation Keeno. Good tip on the bushing bolts that could have been a head scratcher. I was going to use the 100 ft lbs on the U-BOLTS. I'll take it easy on the hanger bolts until I talk to Mickey again.
 
Last edited:
jjohn, keep an eye on those bushings if you're not using the inserts. After a while the bushings will likely start to show 'pinching' (wear caused by bolt pinching bushing against spring end).



Just a thought.



Bob
 
Hey jjohn!:)



I'll try to bring you in some torque specs out of the manual tomorrow if it'll help.



With your's being a '90... . I'm speculating that you'll be able to use the steel inserts for your installation. definitely preferred!



Bush Wakr is 'right on' when he says the bushings take a beating w/o the inserts! Mine are pretty much toasted & I have a complete new set sitting on the shelf awaiting a day of motivation & wrench spinning. I Meant to put them on before my last summer Utah/ Wyoming trip but never got it sorted out before leaving.



Let us know your thoughts when you get them installed... .



KEENO:D
 
Thanks for the input guys

I hope to get started tonight. I have a commuter car so having the truck down won't be an issue. I have Friday and the whole next week off from work so it should be soon enough. Skyjacker faxed in the instructions today but no torque specifications. Must be a secret! :rolleyes: Keeno If you find the torque specs that would also be great. I called around today and one guy said “ well it kind of depends on the vehicle” the second said “oh I suppose 100 ft pounds otta to do it”. My cheesy repair manual doesn’t have it in there.

The SJ instruction mentions that some Cummins trucks have larger ¾ inch rear bolts but no mention of the front. I’ll let you know how its going. Thanks again
 
jjohn, here's the numbers from my '93' manual if that is a help... I would think that they should be pretty darn close if not exactly the same. But... what do I know ;)



Model 44 Front Axle:

U-bolt/stud nuts - 85 ft. lbs

Front pivot bolt/nut - 100 ft. lbs

Rear shackle bolt/nut - 60 ft. lbs



Model 60 Front Axle:

U-bolt/stud nuts - 95 ft. lbs

Front pivot bolt/nut - 100 ft. lbs

Rear shackle bolt/nut - 80 ft. lbs





Rear

U-bolt nuts (1/2"-20) - 65 ft. lbs

U-bolt nuts (9/16"-18) - 110 ft. lbs

Spring front and rear eye pivot bolt/nut:

(1/2"-20) 65ft. lbs

(5/8"-18) 100ft. lbs

(3/4" - 16) 135ft. lbs

I think the bigger ones are for the Dana 70 and the smaller are likely for the Dana 60... just go by size and you should be alright!



Hope this helps with the install. :D ;)
 
Last edited:
Hey jjohn!:)



Bush Wakr has you dialed in! My 1992 Service Manual has the same specs... . Go Figure :D



Darn! That Bush Wakr is quick! :) Hey! Let me know if you need these specs in "Newton Meters" (N*m)... . We got those too!



Here's an additional spec that might help:



Shock Absorber - Upper & Lower Nut

55 ft. lbs. OR 75 N*m




Let us know your thoughts after the install!



One other thought... Your steering wheel angle might be off a few degrees after the spring installation. You can either pull the wheel & rotate to correct or spend some additional $$$ for an adjustable 'steering drag link'.



KEENO:D
 
RATS !!! I missed the shock stuff. . good catch Keeno :p

All I know about Newton is he had a thing with apples.



On the steering issue, my brother had aftermarket springs made for his '92' (he's a new TDR member "Woodie")

They gotta be atleast 3 1/2 - 4" lift. He had a diff. drag link put in and discovered later it was a needless expense. I do not know the ins and outs of it all but research that one a bit to make sure you don't spend cash unless you really need to.



N*m ehhhh, hmmmm... ... . I gotta get out more... :D :D



Regards, Bob
 
Hey jjohn & Bush!:)



I just pulled the steering wheel & rotated it a few splines to correct the wheel angle. My girl's W-250 has the adjustable drag link on it to compensate for her 4" SJ lift. Looks to be a quality part... But unnecessary for the 2 1/2" lift.



I didn't realize until re-reading you original posting that your also doing the rear springs. I've heard good things about the rear kit but haven't done them on my truck as of yet. It's on the list!



The only installation PITA w/ the rear kit is that I understand the fuel tank has to be dropped to access the DS spring pivot bolt for removal/install. Sounds like a great time to pop in a sending unit or check the p/u screen.



Just another thought... .



Did you go w/ the "Nitro" or "Hydro" level shocks?



KEENO:D
 
Hey Guys

Keeno, I got the Nitro's. I still haven't start yet... . it's driving me nuts not getting it done... looks like Friday.



Thats the trouble with working for a living ... it gets in the way of the important things in life!



I have a wheel puller, I adjusted my steering wheel also after replacing the steering gear 50K ago.



Bushwakr, I didn't think of the shocks either...
 
Last edited:
RE: fuel tank....

when I had an aftermarket anti-sway put on the rocket scientists who did it really used their collective head..... NOT ! :eek:



they put the bolt holding the sway bar mount through the frame rail from the inside. That meant that the threaded end was sticking out just happened to come out about 1 1/4" under the overload leaf... . DUH !!!:confused: :confused: :mad:

What I did (this may help you) is to wait until I had about 1/8th of a tank of fuel. Then loosened the filler neck, and with a floor jack I used a 8"X10"X 4' long board for support along tank bottom, and let the tank drop an inch or two. (You've got to take the belly band bolt out while supporting with jack/board. )

Just enough that I could pry it away from the frame rail and get my hand in to remove/re-position the bolt, and get a socket wrench in to tighten it back up. Worked great !

I used the same system to install my camper tiedown J-bolts too.

I imagine you could do a complete removal the same way if you change your sender etc.



JAT (just a thought)



Regards, Bob



MERRY CHRISTMAS !:D
 
The Front is Done YAHOO…….

Only one thing, I will be driving up hill until I get the rear done. Five hours of great fun, actually I did enjoy doing it.



No dropping the fuel tank for me guys. I have the Nut welded to a 5 inch piece of bar that is tack welded to the frame on the inside of the spring hanger!! (Picture below).

I guess when I had my springs reached and added a leaf two years ago the suspension shop it must have done it. One of their tricks I guess. It drives GREAT, I took a drive on a road with a large dip at 35 MPH, I never would have dreamed of this with the old springs…. VERY VERY nice. Keeno and Bushwakr Thanks again your help.

OH Yea I could use the steel sleeves, worked out Great. . #ad
Rear Spring HangersAnother view of the truck from the front
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It'd Done

Six hours today. I did this whole job myself in 11 hours, i Don't know if thats good time or not... but I am one tired boy



I take that back my 18 month old Golden retriever helped out every chance he could by walking off with a tool, a shock. bolt, a bushing, i'm sure you get the idea. #ad
 
Last edited:
Good Job

Hey JJohn, nice job. I replaced the suspension on my 77 powerwagon a while back and I too was whooped. My arms were sore for a few days after all that monkey wrenching :mad: - swore I would never do it again without airtools.



Now I am about to do it again (hopefully w/ air tools) on my CTD. My 2. 5" Skyjacker springs are in transit and I hope to start work after Jan 1. At his point I am only doing the fronts as the rear seems to sit high enough with the one ton. If the rear ends up being a hair lower I'll throw in an add-a-leaf.



If I run into any snags I'll give you a holler since you are a man of fresh experience w/ these springs... .



ken
 
You bet Ken

Anything I can do to help. The front was much easier than the rear on mine. Nice looking W350 by the way.
 
2 1/2 SJ now 3 1/2 rear

If you had been following the “Hey Keeno” post, here is the wrap up with the Skyjacker install.

Remember when I said I was done…. Well I wasn’t, I drove the truck around for a while thinking the springs would need to settle out a little. They did, the drivers side was exactly one inch lower “front and rear” than the pass. side. I called SJ and talked about it but first here is a little recap.



Last Friday I installed the front springs and shocks, but couldn’t use the SJ U-bolts because they were larger diameter than the factory and wouldn’t fit threw the holes in the spring brackets without drilling them larger. MY factory u-bolts and axle studs were in great shape so I just used them.



The small u-bolts that fit around the tie rod on the front steering stabilizer were to short so I bought longer ones. SJ said the stabilizer kit is used for many vehicles and Dodge uses a larger diameter rod, No big deal.



When done with the front only, the truck was just under a ¼ inch lower on the driver’s side front. Again, no big deal.



Saturday I installed the rear, You could see the truck was leaning to the driver’s side. The Skyjacker instruction mentioned A 1986 Chrysler Technical Bulletin regarding driver side leaning due to the fuel tank being on the drivers side inside the frame. Chrysler had a spring spacer kit, (a block that was ½ inch) they told me.

The thing is I only had a quarter tank and was leaning a full inch. Skyjacker said the only way to see if it was the rear spring was to swap sides in the rear and see. Well I was just overjoyed at that Idea, but I did it anyway…. same thing 1” lower on the drivers side front and rear. Lovely



Yesterday morning I headed down to Denver spring and they said, “they see It all the time” so I had them make me two steel spacer blocks drilled and pinned. One 2 inches thick for the driver’s side rear, and one 1 inch thick for the passenger side rear. I wasn’t happy with the level idea for the times I load it up with a thousand pounds or more to go hunting, the camper shell with the tent and steel framework inside weighs 450lbs as it is.



I then drove down to Drive Train Industries and had new U-bolts made to accommodate the steel blocks. I didn’t care for the SJ u-bolts anyway.

This morning I picked up the parts and reinstalled the whole mess again. This time I am happy! Exactly one inch higher in the back and exactly even side to side. The driver’s side front is1/8 inch lowers than the passenger side. Even after filling the fuel tank…. . I can live with that. I measure from the axle to the wheel cut out to eliminate the tire as a variable.



I cut out the spare tire carrier because the bolts were seized, good thing I didn’t have a flat eh! I would not do this job without air tools and an angle grinder with cut off wheels. Especially if you’re like me and don’t stop until it’s the way you want it. D*** am I glad this is done. I updated the DONE Pic if you want to see. I am still a little puzzled by the one inch thing. I guess the old rear springs were just so stout they could handle it? Anyway it drives real good the steering stabilizer is very nice, I should have put it on years ago. I can even drink coffee while driving now. Has anyone installed a cable up spare tire assembly in there first Gen truck? I don’t want to put the old system back in. Sorry about the long post. Next week new exhaust! #ad
 
Last edited:
It looks like your helper was waiting for awhile. Seems like you can almost hear the words, "Would you stop with the camera so we can go!"

Very nice persistence? determination? stubborness? work!

Art
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top