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Hey team- I need front end advice!

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My Y2K 2500 2WD has had a pop in front end since I bought it at 24K miles. Now I am at 33K and about to run out of warranty. Dealer has replaced sway bar, made all sort of checks, including ball joint check yesterday. Can not find anything and finally told me there is nothing they know to do. The popping occurs in both sides and seems to occur more on very humid days. Happens whenever I turn wheels while parked and also when I go over a bump or uneven spot. It really frustrates me that they want to give up. They mentioned letting the truck spend a day with a zone manager? Sounds like a good idea as I also have a transmission problem that can't be fixed.
Hate to be so Krass, but right now I wish I would have bought another Chevy. Maybe they will do something to change the way I feel.

What are my options? I do not want a popping truck!

Note: The ball joint boots are empty. I intend to put in zerks at 36K.
Note: The shock bolts are loose but they do not feel this is the source of the noise.

Thanks in advance for the help. I do not have long before the truck is mine.

David

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'00 2500QC-LWB 2WD 6sp. loaded with a bunch of goodies that I would not have ordered if I bought the truck new.
 
Get the shock bolts tightened first, I don't think they're intended to be loose--then go from there-chris

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chris sutton
1999 2500 qcab longbed 4x4 red sport w/ all the options 'cept plow pkg, 4:10 detroit locker in rear & front ARB,
5" skyjacker lift w/ 35" BFG mud terrains on 16. 5x9. 75 Weld rims, black smittybilt nerf bars, black 3 pc. bug persuader,
black lumber rack, camel leather int. w/ mb quartz spkrs and 8" sub, power edge EZ, DTT vb & tc, mag hy-tec transmission pan,
red magview diff covers & coming soon: 275 injectors, red L&L ladder bars, turbo temp monitor & guages on "A" pillar
 
hgdmartn, don't let those problems get dumped on you at 36K, these are things that need to be fixed. If the dealer can't fix them then they need to find someone that can. If you have had your truck in several times for the same problems without any resolution under warranty, then regardless if you pass 36K or not they should be fixed! If they never fixed your truck right under warranty then they should still be obligated to right these existing problems after 36K. Don't take any crap from these guys, it sounds like they are trying to brush you off.

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2001 black dually,4x4, 6 speed H. O. ,loaded up and then some!
 
David, I had my 99 in five times for a popping in the front end, after a complete front end rebuild they said it was my nerf bars. Wound me up pretty tight that they would tell me that it was my "non-mopar" step bars that were the problem. Anyway, I found two loose bolts so the steering gear they put in, that wasn't it. I looked more and found the shock bolts were moving in the bushings. They weren't really loose, just moving. If you are going to leave the stock shocks and shock bolts in there is only one thing to do to fix the pop. Get out the rattle-wrench, or a big breaker bar. This will get rid of the pop for a while, about 15K for me, but it is coming back. Do a search for shocks in the archives, a few guys have documented what is needed to get bolts that fit properly. That is the only permanent fix that I know of.
The stock shocks are garbage, you may want to cut your losses now and get some good shocks put on.

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99 2500 QC 4X4 AUTO SB 24V LARAMIE SLT 3. 5 LSD 285-75-16'S SPA Boost/EGT Everything but leather NRA Member
 
These Dodge cummins trucks are front end heavy,and any problems with the shocks will show up. Its a good place to start. In this form check out the topic "Rattle after installing new shocks".

At 70000 miles the track bar needed replacing on my 9812v. The suspension felt loose,seemed to ride like an old truck. (truck works allot of off road) Installed a new track bar,the trucks ride was back. A new problem came up and it was a popping noise,mostly occuring while turning(truck would make this noise at stand still while turning the steering). Had the front end alignment done, every thing checked out fine.
Pop,pop,noise still there,finally I deceided to take the track bar back and put a different one on. The popping noise was gone, must have been a defective track bar.

[This message has been edited by trucknut (edited 02-17-2001). ]
 
David, dont let the 36K scare you. As long as you've been getting paperwork all along, it's a pre existing problem, and should be warrantied. This is assuming youre dealer is a decent individual.
My wifes Mazda dealer has a habit of losing the paperwork. #ad
I WONT buy her another Mazda.
Eric
Have them re torque the track bar...

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 275 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 02-19-2001). ]
 
I had a popping in my front end as well that started at around 45,000 miles and slowly got worse. I recently installed (60,000 miles) a Lindstadt track bar and that took care of it. According to the local shop worn track bars is a VERY common problem on our trucks.



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)
 
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