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HID Lighting, Step by Step

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Hi All,



First, let me say this is going to be a long post with many pictures. I bought my truck new and was initially impressed with the headlights (especially when compared to my prior '89 and '95 Rams. But as time went on I had several "close calls" at night due to the lack of distance in our beams. Recently this became more prevalent when my wife and I moved further out from the city. So I began to look at the possibility of upgrading the lights. We've seen impressive setups here on the TDR of off road lights and even another HID setup. So after months of reading, researching, and planning, I decided to do a custom Bi-Xenon HID retrofit.



I've seen the "kits" and the blinding glare that they produce--so this was quickly taken off the table. I've also seen some retrofits that required extra switches and what not--I wanted a factory look. I didn't want to lose any functionality, so I had to have both High and Low beams. Lastly, I wanted to do this modification without hacking up the existing factory harnesses.



Now, what kind of projectors? I started researching to find out what exactly is the best projector? So, I went to HID Retrofit Parts Projectors Ballasts D2S Bulbs to see what others use. Many prefer the Honda S2000 projector, but it is low beam only. Others like the Lexus LS430, but it too is low beam only. Very few people use the LS460--some even say it's no good--but this appears to be without significant merit. Next, I found out that the Lexus LS460 is a low beam only here in the U. S. , but in China and Taiwan, the LS460 comes with a Bi-Xenon (high and low beam) Projector! Now, how do I get a set of LS460 projectors from overseas? Well, I found a supplier in China who sells projectors from salvage vehicles and luckily he had a set. REMEMBER to make sure you buy a LEFT and RIGHT side projector--very few types are interchangable.



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Additionally, here in the U. S. we are Left hand drive, so I needed a set of Left hand drive projectors--China and Taiwan are. THIS IS IMPORTANT because the projector beams have a "step down" in the beam pattern cut-off to prevent the blinding of oncoming drivers (I have a picture of it later in the post).



Now, although the projectors are key, you got to have bulbs! So, I found out what type bulbs Lexus is supplying in the new LS460s and ordered a set. Manufacturers are using new Mercury free D4S bulbs and ballasts--so I got a set of new Lexus (Phillips) bulbs and Lexus Ballasts. These new "environmentally friendly" mercury free bulbs will help to offset my "Carbon Foot Print" from that nasty habit my Cummins has of smoking the unsuspecting Hemi---HA!



Projectors sourced from auto-electronic.net



Next is wiring, I ordered everything from parts-express.com, mouser.com, and suvlights.com.



I used parts-express for the relays, pigtails, diodes, and fuses.

2-relays (Tyco 20/30A SPDT)

2-pigtails for relay (5 pin relay socket)

2-diodes (1N4007 1A 1000V diode)

2-fuse holders (in-line 10 AWG--30A rated)



I used Mouser.com for the resistors and thermal potting compound.

4-resistors (ARCOL 4. 7 Ohm)

1-potting compound (MG Chemicals Thermally Conductive, 450mL)



I used suvlights.com for the 9007 male socket pigtails



I used a couple of spools (red and black) of 14 AWG wire from Tractor Supply for the main wire runs.



Now, after all the parts were amassed, time to take out the lights and get them in the oven---yes the oven. I set the oven at 290 degrees and put the whole headlight assembly inside for about 8 minutes. BE SURE to put something down on the racks so that the metal grid doesn't melt your plastic housing--I used a couple of cedar blocks. The oven is necessary to heat the lights and glue up to be able to remove the front lens.



Inside the oven (Do this when wife is not around).



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You may have to repeat a few times (a couple minutes each time) to keep the light warm enough for the lens glue to peel apart.



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Once opened, you have access to the reflector bowl. Repeat this for the other side.



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Ok, next post will have parts/wiring pictures. I'll indicate when the final post is up.



(Hope the pictures work--if not, I'll fix)
 
Now, wiring is crucial. I soldered every connection and used dielectric grease too. All joints are shrinkwrapped and taped. I used black RTV silicone on the headlight pigtail and relay pigtail to keep out moisture. See pics:



Bulb Connector (male end mimics the 9007 bulb = easy plug in for factory harness).



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Here is relay and pigtail.



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Here are the diodes.



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Here is my wiring schematic, I hope it shows well, if not, I will redo and get another one up.



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Our trucks have a positive switched harness (at least the 2003-2005 years). 2006 and up went to a CAN-BUS system--hopefully someone will chime in with expertise on their wiring. Another member here on TDR put images up of his HID--including his resistors. So I used the same ones on mine, wired in parallel with the high and low beams--this keeps the LAMP OUT light off! If you don't use resistors, the lamp out will kick on and cause pulses to be sent to the light circuits. Essentially the computer senses a problem in current draw and tries to pulse it--this will kill the ballasts by causing them to flicker--so this is mandatory! The resistors cause enough pull to be simulated so the computer doesn't go nuts.



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The problem is that now, we are using only a fraction of the power that the old halogen bulbs needed--all we need is a small amount to kick the relay on. This is what confuses the computer. The resistors pull the "extra current" to fool the FCM. This current is expended as heat--thus, the massive heat-sinks on the resistors. I also used 1/4" aluminum plates to mount the resistors on; this should help dissipate the heat. Also, I used computer processor heat sink compound between the resistor and plate to ensure good heat transfer--this is found at Radio Shack for a few dollars.



Both high and low beam circuits need resistors. So each side has 2 and they are mounted above the wheel-wells up front on the front clip frame member.



Again, more pictures and information is coming...
 
Here is another picture of the wiring (it was in process in this picture). Be sure to follow the diagram as this picture doesn't have the diode yet, nor the soldering, heat shrink, electrical tape, or wire loom.



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I did the wiring harnesses, before I disassembled the lights--this allowed an extra week of driving before disassembly.



Now, earlier I showed the pictures of the disassembled light. There are two bolts that hold the reflector in, and depending on the year of your truck, either a plastic stud or a lateral adjustment bolt. Remove these and pull out reflector.



I taped off the area of the reflector I needed to remove to fit the Lexus projector. I used a drill press with a cutting bit and free handed the cut. It's also a good idea to tape the HID projector up to keep scratches off of it as to measure for its' placement.



Marked and Cut:



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More to come...
 
Another note on the wiring. Each side (driver and passenger) is run off that side's battery. So I made 2 separate harnesses. As in the diagram, the harnesses are connected only by the series wiring of the high beam solenoids. These solenoids are low voltage units that when activated pull a rod down--attached to the cut-off shield. This exposes the full output of the HID projector for High Beam distance length.



Again, I cannot emphasize enough on the wiring. USE RELAYS! Do not power these HID ballasts/bulbs off of the factory wiring--it is too thin and will heat up and risk burning! In my setup, the only thing the factory wiring does is trip the relay that allows the heavier gauge wiring to supply the high current from the battery to the ballasts to ignite the bulbs.





All HID projectors are different, so mounting will be the most difficult and time consuming part. A few common themes are important.



**Allow for adjustment, you want the horizontal beam cut-off as level as possible. You want rotational ability to tilt the projector clockwise or counter clockwise to achieve the level cut-off.



**Allow for vertical adjustment (movement after installation) to prevent blinding of oncoming drivers. Remember, when we adjust our lights up and down with the factory adjusters, only the reflector dish inside the light is moving--so allow for this with the HID assembly.



**Durability is of major concern. Our trucks tend to "rattle" a little more than the luxury vehicles most of these projectors come in. So I used thread sealant on the bolts, thick sheet metal for the mounting brackets, and JB-Weld on the bolt heads and around them on the reflector housing--in hopes of preventing stress cracks.



Here is a close-up of the brackets I cut and mounted on the projector. The two vertical bolts will go through the top holes drilled in the reflector dish--this will allow the rotational adjustment by loosening one and tightening the other.



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Next, mark and drill the holes in the reflector assembly. It is VERY important to measure the depth of the projector inside the reflector to make sure it will clear the front lens when reinstalled.



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Here you can see the first fitting of the projector/reflector assembly. You can also see the top bolts covered in JB Weld. The bottom of the projector is held to rear of the reflector dish by a sheet metal band. I did not finalize its' mounting point until both projectors were mounted and put in the truck without the lenses.





View attachment 72981





So, as it sits in the picture above, the units are mounted in the truck and aimed/adjusted prior to attaching the HID projector lower attachment to the stock reflector dish.



**Another reason to have the wiring complete to allow for aiming.



**DOT mandates a 2. 5 inch drop from the height of the bulb on the vehicle to the beam cut-off at a distance of 25 feet. I lowered mine a little more (3. 5 inches) since our trucks sit up higher.
 
Further, on the issue of aiming. I found out that the '02 Ram 1500s had a lateral (left to right) adjustment on their lights. Maybe the '03 and '04 trucks do too. My '05 has this crappy plastic stud that does not allow lateral adjustment. To circumvent this engineering hiccup, I found that the lateral adjusters are removable and will mount in the same holes that the plastic stud is in, so I was able to put the lateral left to right adjusters in mine. I found a salvage yard that had a wrecked '02 Ram in it and got the adjusters out of it.



Here is the comparison.



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Now, prior to installing the HID projectors into the reflectors, you want to cover up any openings on the rear of the HID projector. This will give a better appearance at night, as you will not have any light "bleeding" out on the sides or behind the HID optics. I used some left over High Temp Header tape from an old project. This stuff was rated at high temps--so I knew it would stick under the heat, even though these units do not get anywhere near plastic melting temps.



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Ok, here is the projector inside the truck for aiming purposes.



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Think, terminator...



More to come.
 
Ok, to fire these lights up they require a ballast. This takes the 12V input and bumps it up to like 20,000 to 25,000V to ignite the bulb. HID bulbs do not have a filament, instead there are two electrodes that a are separated and when a high current is given--they generate an electrical arc in the presence of xenon gas.



Anyways, the immense current these ballasts can draw at startup/warmup is the reason to USE RELAYS!



On the cars that are equipped from the factory with HID lights, the ballast are usually well placed to prevent water damage. Since this is a retrofit, extra protection is required to water proof these things. So, to waterproof them, they are potted in a THERMALLY CONDUCTIVE epoxy. This is important because you do want to repel water, but do not want to hold the heat inside. So MG Chemicals has a potting compound that has been used since the 1980's. It was developed for computer systems on the Space Shuttle--or so they say. Aside from the marketing, it is very good stuff.



Here's what I did. I disassembled the ballasts, and mixed up the epoxy according to directions and let it cure for 24 hours. So far no problems, and I have used the lights continuously for several hours on road trips. WATER PROOF your ballasts to prevent risk of shock and fire.



Here are the pictures of opening the ballasts and pouring the potting compound in.



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More to come...
 
Here are the ballasts, both potted and ready to be put back together and installed.



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Mount the ballasts--close enough so the plug reaches the light assembly. Here's where mine are.



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Now, after the projectors are mounted inside the reflectors and put inside the housing. It is time to put the lens back on and seal it up. Because of the size of the projectors at the base, I had to cut a little off of the chrome shroud inside the plastic lens. You can see it in the picture below.



To seal up the housing, our light manufacturer (Valeo from what I have read) uses a black butyl sealer of some sort. When I pulled the housing away from the lens, I scraped out as much of the old stuff as I could. To replace it, the best stuff to use is made by Nissan. It is light housing sealer that comes in a tube-like roll. It can be stretched and pushed into the groove on the headlight housing.



Nissan Part Number: B6553-89915

**I think I paid about $25 for it.



This is the best stuff to use to seal out water.

After both of my lights this is what I have left over--one roll is plenty.



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To put the lens back on, I put the housing (with HID projector) back into the oven at 290 degrees for 8 minutes. This allowed the sealer to heat up and get pliable enough for the lens to be pushed back on. You may have to reheat the assembly during the process a couple times to get all of the tabs hooked in. Unfortunately, do not have any pictures of putting them back together, but it is the reverse process of taking them apart. Try not to break any tabs!



Here is a side shot of the light after coming out of the oven... REMEMBER to check for clearance between projector lens and fron plastic cover lens.



Pardon the bugs on it... They've been terrible recently (2 miles home from the car wash and it was covered before I started the project).



View attachment 72995



More to come...
 
So, here are the results.



Factory Look.

Factory Switch.

No Lamp Out.

Great Output.

Not blinding to oncoming traffic.

No Glare.



Night Shots. A little blurry, but I hope to get a few more this weekend.



View attachment 73000



Below on the low beam picture, you can see the "step" I referred to earlier. It is a slope downward to avoid blinding the oncoming traffic. Additionally, both my driver side and passenger side have the projector rotated about 2 degrees clockwise (facing the headlight) to lower the driver side cut-off even further in an attempt to help prevent blinding oncoming traffic. This allowed a small upward adjustment for distance, without blinding the oncoming lane. Also, my light beam cut-off is right at the top off the trunk on the sedans on the interstate so I don't blind them.



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Below is the high beam picture. The solenoids are activated when my brights switch on and they pull the cut-off shield down to expose more light. I will try to get a better distance shot this weekend.



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The results are amazing. Haven't been bright lighted or flipped off once.



Cheers!
 
Wow long post! Good information though. Great do it yourself project, and i'm sure this will help someone the road.



Thanks.
 
Wow!!! This is an amazing write up!

Do you have any pictures at night of your original headlights to contrast the increased light output of the HIDs?

Roughly how much money do you have tied up in this project?

The attention to detail and research you put into this is amazing!!!!

Thanks again for all the work that went into this...

--Eric
 
Hi All,



Thanks for the comments. Unfortunately, when the parts arrived I acted like a kid with a new toy, so I started taking things apart prior to getting any before pictures! Maybe someone with stock halogens can take a picture and post here for a good comparison?



I have around $700-800 bucks in the project. This includes just about everything--aside from tools.



I think research was key--and this was the reason my post was so long. I hoped to make it a "one stop shop" for info on our trucks for this HID retro.



Also, the reason for the diode is to allow the current from the high beam wire to go to the low beam wire, but not from low to high. This is to keep the relay "on" so the lights/ballasts don't cut off when the high beam is switched on. Our stock halogens are dual filament bulbs and each filament has its own wire (low and positive). Those who have the "Bright Box" have the capability to light both simultaneously.



Yeah, it would have been easier to buy a vehicle with HID, but where's the fun/expense in that?!?! Ha!



I will keep up with this thread to answer questions.



It is well worth the time to also see Hidplanet.com--especially for the 2006 up guys. There is a guy there that put Chrysler 300C HID lights in his 2006 Ram--it is a great mod! You can join the site for free and search for Dodge Ram HID.



Finally, if you are going to do this project, be sure you know/research the HID seller as there are many knock-offs/cheapo's in HID Land.



Cheers!
 
Amazing! I have a lot of respect for those of you who can take on and accomplish a project like this. I know I never could so I would never attempt to. Awesome job.
 
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