Here I am

High EGT, Low boost pressure???

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

No Speedometer, Cruise, TC Lockup

Mechanical temperature gauges ports?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hello everyone. I'm just wondering if I have low turbo boost pressure compared to others? I have a stock HX35 turbo with the boost elbow plugged. The highest boost pressure I have ever seen is approx 25-27 psi. (OD off, 7% grade hill pulling camper). Is this normal or do I have a boost leak or some other problem? I've owned the truck since 2003, 50K and the truck has always run well. I'd like to have a bit more usable power before getting into high EGTs. When pulling my camper many times before cresting a hill the EGTs will get too high and I have to take the OD off (thus slowing down and the engine rpm racing). I have lots of power available, just not usable power before the high EGTs. Any thoughts as to how I can solve this? Thanks in advance for any replies.

1997 2500 4x4 12 valve Cummins, auto, X-cab long box, fuel plate removed, full-forward AFC housing, ground end of rack, replaced cupped washer with a flat washer, 4K springs, turbo wastegate elbow plugged, Goerend TC & VB upgrade, Dipricol gauges (exhaust, trans, boost) 230K, KDP repaired.
 
Welcome to TDR BA.

A few questions to help us help you:
  • What do you consider "High EGT's"?
  • Where do you have the thermocouple located?
  • What do you consider "engine RPM racing"?
  • At what speed do you take it out of overdrive?
  • What's your R&P ratio?
 
With no fuel plate and the wastegate closed the boost should easily exceed 30, even with stock injectors. I'd be looking at the boots and testing the intercooler for leakage.
 
Thanks for the reply:
  • What do you consider "High EGT's"? (redline on the Dipricol EGT gauge...1250 deg F)
  • Where do you have the thermocouple located? (before the turbo on the exhaust manifold)
  • What do you consider "engine RPM racing"? (having to drop the OD before cresting a hill, I know the engine max readline is around 4300 rpm??, however I don't feel comfortable running the engine at 2500 rpm+ for any length of time, it just doesn't seem right the engine blaring away...)
  • At what speed do you take it out of overdrive? (at whatever speed the EGT redlines, when pulling a trailer up a shallow hill usually between 55-65mph)
  • What's your R&P ratio? (if you mean rear axle ratio I believe its 3.54:1)
I also have a 4" exhaust.
 
No expert here, but have you ruled out intercooler/hose leak? Low boost and high EGTs are related to each other.

Just another thought.

Cheers, Ron
 
The redline is around 3200 rpm but the 12V has a governor to limit rpm to 2700-3000. The engine can run at full speed all day long.

Generally when climbing hills I keep the rpm in to 2200-2800 range and egt below 1200F. My temp sensor is in the exhaust manifold ahead of the turbo and I have 3.54 gears, stock injectors and an HY35 turbo which tops out at 17psi. I'm not in a hurry.
 
I've visually looked over the intercooler & hoses, I don't see anything obvious. If a small leak is present, are there any tips on troubleshooting this?
 
Building a pressure testing apparatus only requires some PVC, a shraeder valve and shop air. IMO you have more than a small leak. One likely source is the lower boots rubbing on the inside of the fenders. Charge air coolers have been known to fail, thus the tester.
 
OK thank you. Is there a specific place I should install this valve? Do I need to block off any of the air ducting before doing the test?
 
Excellent article! I'll have to try making one of these. Thank you very much everyone for all of your help, it's much appreciated:)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top