Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) High EGT's & Turbo/Fuel pump mods

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) throtle linkage broke

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission The Fleet...who's got one?

Status
Not open for further replies.
See truck bio below. I haul a 1500lb camper through the Sierras on a regular basis and I just can't seem to keep the temps down. I am at a steady 1100deg at 60mph in 5th gear over the passes with tons of throttle available and no guts to push the temp gauge any further for a long period of time. Shifting down to 4th helps a bit but the truck tops out at about the same speed in that gear. Basically, my power limitations now are temp related, not Dodge/Cummins design engineer related, like when it was stock.



What I'm thinking is more air. I'm just not moving enough at WOT with the little 14cm/Piers HX35. You can also feel the engine wanting more air at high speed with no load on flat ground, around 95mph (did I say that out loud?). I know the 370's make alot of heat, but I have the 180hp fuel pump with stock delivery valves. A wiser man than I tried to convince me to put the Piers HX40 in with the 370's, but I didn't listen.



If I were to get a set of the 191 del valves (the truck runs well on the stock ones, unlike what some have said about the 160 pump and how it runs with 370's), what do you guys think about that big ole' BD bomber turbo? I'm looking for about 400hp, but mostly, I'd like to cruise the mountains and not be on the edge of the turbo temp envelope with all that wasted reserve power under my foot waiting to get out!
 
How is your smoke? Do you cover the freeway on a hard acceleration?

You probably would benefit from an HX-40/16 with the 370s and that hot #8 plate. The 370s are my next investment but I am saving for the PDR HX-40/16 as well cuz I know I will need more air with the fuel I am going to be pushing.

Haven't heard much about the BD bomber, but IMO I would just get the PDR 40 and go from there.



Just reading your sig again, but is your HX-35 a hybrid 35/40? How much peak boost are you achieveing?
 
JGheen,

That was quick! Thanks!

The smoke isn't bad, unless I want to give another motorist the international signal to get off my ass (you can take the boy out of Jersey, but... )! A little when I'm really giving er' hell, but not bad. I've moved the plate around a bit, but a little forward of stock seems to "feel" right and moving it doesn't seem to effect smoke as much as the screw on the back of the AFC housing. I moved that quite a bit to bring on the fuel better at 0 boost and get rid of the surge once the boost comes on.

My neighbor has the PDR 40 and gets almost 400hp with minimal smoke (215 pump, 98 12v). The turbo I have is a 14cmWG that I got from Banks and I married it with the PDR 35 hybrid, which is to say that they take the stock HX35 and mill it out a bit and put in a bigger impeller to grab more air. It's not much different from stock, but it's noticable. I just wonder what that Bomber turbo feels like at light throttle, around town. I'm not building a sled puller, but I like power, especially when I can use it and not turn my turbo 13 shades of red!
 
I too am running the Banks 14cmWG turbine, but my turbo is the stock HX-35. How much boost are you running? With my stocker I can get almost 40 psi, but tend to shift when it hits 38.

Why do you want/prefer the Bomber turbo from BD? I would just get the PDR 40 and go. I believe they give you quite a warranty on the PDR(I think), haven't heard much at all about the BD turbo. I am just one of those guys who goes with what everyone is running and I have heard of more people running the PDR 40 with good luck than any BD turbo for that matter.



Also, have you adjusted you wastegate actuator at all. I have not touched mine since i bought it from Banks, but the sticker on the actuator says it is set to open @ 43psi.
 
Originally posted by Forrest Nearing

what's the altitude up there? higher altitude = less available oxygen = higher EGT's at a given load/boost level



Forrest

I was going to ask that too but didn't see a location anywhere, so disrgarded it. :) Good quesiton though, that could be a major factor as to why his EGTs are high with that added timing and hybrid.
 
bottom line is that you need more air... an HX40 compressor will move more air at a given shaft RPM... if you're not at a high altitude, the HX40 turbine side will breathe well... if you're higher up, you might want to hold onto the wastegated HX35 turbine side... it'll keep boost levels higher across the board... EGT's at WOT will climb a little faster, but either will be an improvement over your current hooter



Forrest
 
Originally posted by Forrest Nearing

bottom line is that you need more air... if you're higher up, you might want to hold onto the wastegated HX35 turbine side... it'll keep boost levels higher across the board... EGT's at WOT will climb a little faster, but either will be an improvement over your current hooter



Forrest

How will the HX-35 work better than the 40 at higher altitudes? Just :confused: on why the boost would be "higher across the board" with that turbo a mile up or so? I would think you would want the 40 for high altitude so that you could move that much more air being the air is much thinner? Or are you speaking about the 35 from a velocity stand point cuz I could see velocity being a friend at high points on the ground?
 
you misunderstood. I was talking about the turbine side of the turbo, not the compressor...



I'm saying run the same compressor either way, but depending on your application, either run the 14cm wastegated HX35 turbine setup you've got now, or run a 16cm wastegated HX40 turbine side.



Forrest
 
Jarred,



Is your pyro pre or post? Since most on this site prefer pre, I assume that is your location. If that is the case, then 1100 deg. is not hot, get her up around 1300 deg. before you back out. With your power level and the weight you are hauling, you should be able to fly over the hills, maybe even need an exhaust brake up hill:) . If you are post turbo like I prefer, than yes, you are hot, 1000 is about the max.





"IF IT AIN'T CUMMINS POWERED, IT AIN'T A TRUCK"





"NCIK"
 
Thanks for all the replies! The WG on the Banks turbo came set at about 28lbs at WOT. When I pulled it out to put on the PDR 35, I gave it a couple of turns and I can now get 35 lbs or so. The #8 plate came with the Banks power pack (waste of money if you ask me, you can get all the parts I got cheaper if you do it one at a time). I have thought about replacing it with a #10, which is what everyone seems to like. The pyro is mounted pre-turbo and I've been asking everyone I think might have a usefull opinion on how hot I should let it get... . and everyone has a different opinion!! I've just played it safe so far, but I can do 1300deg if you guys think that is reasonable. I wound er' up to 1200 or 1300 a couple of times to see how it would do, and I probably could have done 80 or better over the passes at that temp. About the highest I drive around here is 8000 ft, not talking Rockies elevations!



I agree I need more air, and I know the PDR 40 works really well, a couple friends have them. I just heard about that new BD monster turbo and wondered if anyone had considered/installed one yet? Again, I would like to keep the truck drivable in town, but I also need the power in the hills. We have a utility trailer we're going to start using soon in addition to the camper. I figure we'll be around 14k lbs composite all told.
 
I doubt that Banks plate is a #8. If it is the Banks labeled "Ottomind" plate then it is real similar to a #11 plate. I have never heard of Banks selling any other plates then their "Ottomind", but maybe I am wrong. Who told you it was a #8?
 
JGheen,

I got ahold of a #8 plate off an auction and to my surprise, it was the same profile as the Banks plate when I pulled it out of the pump. Now, either, the plate I bought is NOT a #8, or Banks' Ottomind (the one I have, out of the PowerPack) plate is very similar to the #8. Considering the source of my auction bought plate and the seller, and the extremely affordable price I paid, I wouldn't be surprised to find that I bought a "mystery plate. " Regardless, I'm going to get my hands on a #10 and call it good. They're easier to adjust the arm on anyway, and everyone with 400+ drivable hp seems to love em'. I just like to learn the hard/expensive way. Been fun trying different things though!
 
JGheen,

Also, the Banks plate I have is not stamped with OTTOMIND but rather with a 5 digit number (not sure what that is, it's in the truck now).
 
Originally posted by Jarred

JGheen,

I just like to learn the hard/expensive way. Been fun trying different things though!

I am the same way. Bought the $2000+ Banks PowerPack and am seriously regretting it now that I find that I could have got the same and even more power for 1/3 of that Banks kit $$. But then again, I probably wouldn't know what I know now if I didn't learn the hard/expensive way.
 
Originally posted by Jarred

JGheen,

Also, the Banks plate I have is not stamped with OTTOMIND but rather with a 5 digit number (not sure what that is, it's in the truck now).

I don't think any of Banks plates are stamped with "ottomind" on them. Mine too has a number on the top of it, probably refering to a Banks part # or something.

Haven't seen the profile of a #8 plate but I am sure it could be similar to the Banks profile, with a little tweaked top end to stay in the safe EGT range. I heard the Banks plate is as aggressive a plate as possible without going overboard and destroying the engine. Kinda fool proof, if one were to install it all the way forward in a stock truck.

You'll really enjoy the #10, though. I don't think I am ever going to get another plate cuz of the versatility of the #10. Just some 370 injectors and a PDR HX-40 are on the list for the next mods.
 
Exactly! These engines are so fikle, you try to do your homework and get it right the first time, but you never know what you'll get until you put your foot into it! Fun trying though, don't you think?
 
Originally posted by Jarred

Fun trying though, don't you think?

Yeah, just wish I still had the extra money I would have had if I didn't buy the Banks kit. Could easily have the 370s and PDR 40, but that is the way the ball bounces. :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top