High Flow Air Filter

[Old Smoky]

I am looking for an alternative to K&N. The stock paper filter works, though is a bit too restrictive. What else is available? I want to be sure that no dirt gets by this one. I will also be sure that it seats correctally. If there are no other alternatives, what is a good paper filter?



Mike

 

[Mgrant]

Hi Old Smoky,

I remember what you said about your K&N letting dirt into your intercooler in "Got Boost" and it brought back memories of a post in the 94-97 forum about the BHAF, Big Honkin' Air Filter. I'm sure the post is still archived, but since the April Fools Server Crash, it may be hard to find. Basically, they were taking an off the shelf paper filter that is about twice the size of the 1st Gen air filters. It measured something like 11 inches in diameter and about 2 inches longer and has a built in snorkel fitting. I don't remember the part number off hand, but I'll look for it tonight if the post is still here somewhere. We would have to remove the airbox and build a spash shield to keep rain water dripping from the crack between the hood and fender from ruining the filter. I explored the possibilies last summer and decided against it since the difference between the open air snorkel and the stock filter only measured a half a psi of boost. But after reading "Got Boost", I took the plunge today and turn the full load screw one turn. WOW! 23psi and pulls like a sports car! It smokes some at low RPM, but no more than it did stock with the 18 cm housing. I read about 900 post max while towing today, with 23 psi, should be about 1130 manifold. I may turn it back halfway when summer hits, but I'll drive it a while first. So, in light of added power, I will probably be exploring the BHAF again. I'll post the part number when I find it.



Mike



92 W250, 4X4 5-Speed. 16cm housing, tweaked pump, BD Exhaust Brake with heavy valve springs, and nice sounding glasspack.

 

[Mgrant]

Napa Part # 2970

Cummins # AH19037



These are the two links to the BHAF posts.

Original BHAF Post

BHAF Part #s



Mike

 

[Old Smoky]

It sounds like this may be the only other way to go. I think it will work though. I would like to see some pics of an installed filter. It may take some expernmenting. I wonder if there is enough room for a truck-sized doneldson filter housing under the hood... ... That would also work well. Thanks for digging up the part #'s. We might have to get together sometime. I live only 40min away in

Moscow. Besides I am in Lewiston everyday. I am attending LCSC. If you think of anything else let me know.

 

[Mgrant]

Yep, the airbox would defantely have to go. I'll pick up some material sometime this summer and do some expereimenting. Hey, I got another question. In your other thread, you said that your aneroid it halfway between stock and max. When I turned up my power screw one turn, she started to compete with Potlatch for top smoke honors whenever I mashed the thottle. Adjusting the smoke screw didn't change a thing. So, I dug into the aneroid and found that Idaho Diesel set if for the max. I tried to back it off, but my top end power suffered. So, instead of turning it, I turned the starwheel one turn CCW to tighten up the spring. That seemed turn the black cloud into a gray haze and have yet to test it for top boost. Since you've had more expereince with these things, I wanted to run my procedure by and see if you think there is any problems with the way I got it set. Do you remember where your was set at stock when compared to the max setting? Idaho Diesel failed to mark the original postion of the diaphram when they turned it. BTW, my email is -- email address removed -- in case you'd like to give me a shout sometime. Talk to you later.



Mike

 

[Excessive Force]

RAM AIR

Over the winter i did a little experimenting with a "HOMEMADE" (term used loosely)ram air intake in the grille,and piped to the air box. The difference was 1# boost / 100 degrees on pyro. I'm going to make a different style over the summer (more air flow).

 

[Old Smoky]

Mgrant

I can't remember where the dot on the aneroid was in its stock position. It is marked, but I just remember looking at where the pin rode on the "cone", and set it for max travel. When I adjusted the full load fuel adjustment, I pulled the aneroid and set it halfway between the two marks, because of the dense smoke-screen effect. That seemed to do the trick. What you did should work fine. You just reduced the amount of fuel at any given boost level, clearing up the smoke. The increased spring tension will not allow the aneroid to be forced down as far; limiting the distance the "pin" will travel. Doing this should be about the same thing as turning the aneroid back closer to its stock location. With all of these different adjustments it can become quite confusing. I would like to know more about this myself. But that is not what this thread is really about.



As for the BHAF, there is a place in Spokane that specializes in air intake systems. I can't remember the name of the place. I'm sure they would have a filter and canister that would flow more air, and fit. They have about every size and shape you can think of. It’s worth a try. The Cummins can't have too much air.



Excessive Force

Could you go a little more in-depth on your creation?



Mike

 

[Mgrant]

Hi again,



You're right, this isn't the thread to discuss fueling. My bad. But you know, these Cummins chats are adictive! I guess it's a sideffect of the Bombing Bug. I remember some time ago, and for the life of me I can't remember where, but someone had mentioned that there is somebody building some sort of pscotty (sp) air filter system for the first generations. This must be something new and a better way to flow more air. Does any one know anything about this funny named air system? Since the server crash, we have no way to search for realted threads Till then, I'll just keep dreaming up a way to build a sheet metal airbox for the BHAF. The next time I'm at Tisco, I'll ask someone about the place in Spokane.



Mike

 

[Excessive Force]

RAM AIR

OLD SMOKY, I used a combination of pvc pipe,and a piece of 2 1/2" hose. It enters in the grille (through a shower drain):-laf . It goes through the rad support between the rad,and the overflow bottle(hole had to be tweaked a little). Then it goes to a piece of hose to the front of the air box just above the factory intake hole. Like i said HOMEMADE (term used loosely). I plan on making another version that will look,and flow better.

 

[boatpuller]

Another way to add intake capacity of cool air to stock housing:

I drilled a 3" hole in the front of housing above the stock intake and then directly in front of it I drilled a 3" hole between the headlight and the turnsignal in from the back, the hole ends up behind the headlight and recieves presurized air from the front or the truck, I then used a piece of the original 3" exhaust from my truck to connect the 2 holes. The hole could actually be a little bigger and use a larger tube but the next size holesaw I had is 4 1/2" and that hole would be to big, 3 1/2" or maybe even 4" would be better.



Just another idea, didn't want to swiss cheese the airbox and draw in warm air.



Happy Rammin



Caleb

 

[Old Smoky]

Well, there seems to be many good ideas out there. As you guys think-up new creations, or have any advice, let me know. The next time I make it to Spokane I will check the air induction store (I can't remember what it is called). I want it to be as professional, and functional as possible. Thanks.



Mike