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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) HMMMM APPS going south?

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Hello all,



This morning while going to work I had somethinf happen that concerned me a little.



I was driving with the cruse controll on with my speed about 75 and I noticed that the truck acted like the cruse controll had kicked off. So I put my foot on the accelerator and it was at WOT. and the tach was reading 800 rpm. At this time I got a check engine light so I pulled over and shut the motor off and check the codes by the key and had the usual companion code of P1693.



Has anybody else had this?
 
Crank position sensor maybe? since you RPM's dropped to 800'ish and the engine was able to go to WOT?



I just replace mine this week: check engine light, RPM's dropping off, etc... .



You can try resetting the APPS by: disconnecting the batts. unplugging the 3 plugs behind the air-box, letting it set awhile, reconnect everything then with the key turned on (engine not running) depress the throttle 3 times slowly.



V/R



Breck
 
Hey Brian,



I honestly don't have any suggestions for you as to what it might be, but if you end up diagnosing that it is in fact the APPS (accel. pedal position sensor), I have a brand new, still in box one I got from Cummins West last summer that I never used and I'll sell it cheaper than the dealer or Cummins will :)



I thought mine was going out, it turned out to be a turbo issue instead. That's why I never used the thing.



Tom
 
Breck, when the accelerator pedal went to WOT the engine did not rev up. the motor reflected what the tach read.



I have also started to notice a "dead spot " in the accelerator pedal.



I have tried to have my computer read before with a snap on scanner and when it asked about the digit in the VIN, an option of * or * was given and I had neither of those digits in my VIN. My truck is a Canadian. If that makes a difference.



I am thinking about the programs available on-line.



Tom How can I prove or disprove the APPS? If it is my APPS consider yours sold
 
BRI7070, I seen this before and twice it was the Vp44. It can also be other things. Be sure to wait for all the codes to read out on the truck. Even after it says it is "done" sometimes they will only mean one of the computers. Then after a pause it will start giving more codes.





ALSO when Pulling the Connectors off the PCM "Body Computer" Besure to wait 30-60 seconds after unhooking the Battery before pulling the Plugs. Why? Because the computer can get confused and set it's value for "Voltage Regulator Control" to "0". The only way to fix this condition is REPLACING the Body computer and then programing it. (The Body Computers come Un programed)



Kurt
 
KWIKKURT

thanks for the info. I am going out to check the computer in a few minutes.



you stated

"ALSO when Pulling the Connectors off the PCM "Body Computer" Besure to wait 30-60 seconds after unhooking the Battery before pulling the Plugs. Why? Because the computer can get confused and set it's value for "Voltage Regulator Control" to "0". "



What would be the reason for disconnection the PCM?
 
Originally posted by Breck



You can try resetting the APPS by: disconnecting the batts. unplugging the 3 plugs behind the air-box, letting it set awhile, reconnect everything then with the key turned on (engine not running) depress the throttle 3 times slowly.



V/R



Breck



I was just adding some info to this quote... Kurt
 
Brian, I have no clue. When I called Shingle Springs Dodge to ask if they had an APPS in stock last summer, they told me they did, but since it was a $400++ part, they highly recommended that I bring the truck in and they would test my existing APPS for me. It was an $80 test. I didn't do it, although maybe I should have as I wouldn't have gone to Cummins West to order one...



I'll hang on to it for you :)



To add to the quote from Breck that Kurt just posted: I tried this myself, and it did nothing for my probkem. Of course, as I found out, it was not my APPS that was flaking on me.



I just wanted to point out to Brian that the above quote will reset or recalibrate the APPS, it is NOT A TEST that will tell you if the APPS is bad or not. It may not be clear from the post, and I just wanted to make sure Brian understood that, so he doesn't think it is a test :D
 
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My APPS went out about a month ago and the symptoms were similar to yours. I don't remember the codes that came up.



I took mine to a dealer in OH as I was traveling and they diagnosed the problem as the APPS. $400+ part but the dealer replaced it under the standard drive train warranty at approx. 80,000 miles. The service manager was real helpfull and had to read through about three pages of warranty information to get to the part that allowed him to cover it. I was looking over his shoulder reading example after example of "no coverage" scenarios, and had given up all hope of coverage, when he turned to the last page (last example) and found he could charge it off. It would have been really easy for him to point to the first examples and refuse to cover it.



Good Luck,

Dean
 
I had a similar problem where my accelerator would just seem to quit listening to me. I would be going at partial throttle, usually about 50 mph, I could push the pedal down and let it back up, and nothing would happen. I hooked up the quickcheck 2, and I could watch the tps reading, and as that number went from 0 to 100%, the engine would motor along about 1200 rpm, like it was set at a constant power setting, not like cruise, but constant power. Anyway, My problem was



VP44



replaced at 56000 miles.



Nick
 
DCrabbs,



You should post the name of that dealer in OH, there's not many out there that would do that for a customer.



Jim Shaw
 
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