Hold my hand and...................

[Hutchew]

Ok, guys, I'm busted flat broke finishing up the nickel & dime parts of this truck. It runs pretty good, but I know there are a few things that can be done to make it run even better untill I can afford to bomb it correctly

Here's what I have as of now:

1998 12v motor, 70k miles, 3. 5" exhaust w/ no muffler, wastegate blocked off (will probably put it back on after doing research on it here), 1993 intercooler (small 2-1/2" tubes compared to second gen)

1998 nv4500 trans, ST 5th gear and mainshaft, all new bearings & seals.

1993 NP205 transfer case, all new bearings & seals.

Dana 70 3. 54 rear, Dana 60 4. 10 front (haven't decided which way to go yet, but am leaning towards the 4. 10's) and 315/85R16 (35x12. 50-16) Pathfinder AT's

I can push at max just under 30 psi of boost at @1100* at WOT(midrange 3rd gear), still waiting on tach and speedometer parts to arrive, so don't really know yet how fast or what rpm's, but I don't think I'm turning more than @ 22-2300 rpm.

I of course want this truck to smoke the strokers and duracraps, be super-reliable, and not be something that has to be worked on every day just to make it out of the driveway.

For now, I need some direction to go w/ the fuel pump adjustments. I eventually intend to get the good stuff (injectors, plates, etc... ) but would like to now what low-buck (as in FREE) performance mods can be made with my stock components. Thanks for all the anticipated (and past) advice, guys.

 

[moparguy]

Hutchew, do a search for posts by MY6EATSV8'S. He's the king of low/no cost enhancements. If I remember correctly he was over 300 hp (345?) with only adjustments. Some were not endorsed by others on the board, but they made cheap power. He listed those modifications a few weeks ago.



Ronnie

 

[Hutchew]

Thanks, Ronnie.........

I'll do that

 

[Deezul1]

Whatever low cost mods you do, DO NOT run with the torque plate removed as some folks have suggested. Damage to the pump can run over $1000. 00 to repair. Slide the plate forward all the way if you want but watch the EGT. The Moparguy (BHAF) filter will help with low end smoke and EGT.

 

[Hutchew]

Thanks, Deezul.

Yeah, I caught that thread about running w/o the plate. Don't want none of that... ...

I am running a K&N in a first gen box, though... ..... not a second gen. Thanks again, guys.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

What gives with the 1st Gen. parts?

I'm curious... .

 

[Hutchew]

If ya gotta ask.............

I have a one-of-a kind truck with 4 real doors, plus big huevos from the best of the 12 valves. Honestly, I do like the second gen body, but they are rather common, don't ya think? As soon as Dodge comes out with a real crewcab, I'll trade in my furd Powerchoke for one. This truck I have now is my toy/tow/hot-rod vehicle. BTW, got in my first 'win' last night. Couldn't get a furd or chev to play, but a bright red 4x4 dually CTD Ram thought he had me, for about . 00001 seconds, anyway. I could hear him bangin gears when I was already 3 truck lenghts ahead of him



On another note, when I popped the plug out to adjust the starwheel, I noticed that the spring was 'loose', I could move it back and forth @ 1/8". I screwed it all the way forward, and now looks like it has @ 3/16-1/4" of play in it. Is this normal? Shouldn't there be a little tension on the spring? My smoke isn't bad at all with the stock plate & AFC housing slid all the way forward, and boost is now @ 30 (@28 before), although egt's will hit 1300 pretty easy at WOT. Just wondering if this is supposed to be this way???????????