Hole and crack in shower floor

[AMink]

Just picked up a 2004 20' Komfort TT. Overall, it's in very good shape. The biggest problem is that there is a small hole and a crack in the shower floor. The shower is plastic of some sort. Is there any way to repair this without having to tear out the floor? It almost feels as if whatever is under the floor to hold it up isn't the whole width and there is a sag to it when stepped in. I was thinking about squirting some 1:1 foam in there, then using some kind of plastic weld or something. Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[Grizzly]

You can try some tub and shower silicone, such as GE brand. If that doesn't work, you have no choice but to remove the shower pan and replace it. I don't know what is involved without looking at it.

 

[AMink]

Thanks Griz. Yeah I kind of thought the same thing. The pan doesn't look like it would be too hard to get out, but you never know exactly how it was done. Then you have to put it back in! I think the wall panels overlap the pan, so I was hoping that I wouldn't have to pull the panels off.

 

[Sojourner]

If any silicone sealant works, it will be for only a very short period of time. Silicone *appears* to bond well upon application, but the fact of the matter is that silicone is has the absolute worst bond of any sealant I've ever seen.



Your biggest problem is the lack of support resulting in the 'flexing' issue. If you can solve the support problem then you have a better chance of solving the problem with sealant.



At either bLowe's or Home Depot you can find a fiberglass patch kit for tubs and hot tubs. I used one of these kits in the exact same set of circumstances as yours, and if there is flexing due to lack of support then that will fail as well.



If you're determined to try the sealant remedy and you're able to solve the support issue, my suggestion is a professional grade of urethane in a caulking tube found at a waterproofing supply house. I have used many brands of urethane over the years and my absolute fave is Vulkem 116. It's got great adhesion. Sonneborn NP1 is ok, and it has good adhesion as well. Vulkem 116 has a texture to it to match up with masonry and the NP1 does not. Sonneborn has consistency issues, but Vulkem 116 is very consistent. They both come in bright white, off white, or other colors.



Whatever you do, proper surface preparation is absolutely essential. Clean surface with household cleaner as you normally would, then thoroughly clean with mineral spirits and allow to dry. If you use urethane then I suggest you allow the urethane to cure at least 72 hours before use.



HTH

 

[tandersen]

How about making a dam around the drain, laying in sheets of fiberglass and then fill in with about a 1/2" of resin. Put a piece of tape over the hole and crack so it doesn't leak until it sets up. I think you could add some 2x4's underneath to support it. Maybe less resin would work also, I don't know. I fixed a plastic sink in my camper with layers of fiberglass soaked in resin, on the outside.

 

[AMink]

I ended up pulling it out and will be able to do the repairs from the bottom. It's a fiberglass tub and it is THIN! You can actually see light through the gel coat in spots. More high quality RV products.

 

[bighammer]

Remove the shower pan and put in a metal grate and let the water drain on the ground. :-laf

 

[Grizzly]

Remove the shower pan and put in a metal grate and let the water drain on the ground. :-laf

Great idea, until you get caught and slapped with a fine. :-laf

 

[GWBourne]

Great idea, until you get caught and slapped with a fine. :-laf

only if you pee in the shower... .

 

[Grizzly]

only if you pee in the shower... .

Even if you don't :-laf

 

[TowPro]

Try this. #ad




You can get it at Walmart of boat stores for 3X the price. It sticks to fiberglass well, and its waterproof.

 

[Grizzly]

I ended up pulling it out and will be able to do the repairs from the bottom. It's a fiberglass tub and it is THIN! You can actually see light through the gel coat in spots. More high quality RV products.

I'm curious, give us an update.

 

[Alphacowboy]

amink, if you havent put the pan back in yet, do the following...



Before you put the pan back in place, get a can of GreatStuff foam. Make a few rings around the drain all the way to the walls. as it starts to expand, set the pan down on to the foam. it will expand up from the bottom and form to the base of the shower. This will support the bottom of it when it sets up and gets hard. I do this with fiberglass shower pans when I have installed them. it helps make it more rigid, but also insulates it from the floor below, and helps take some of the chill out when placed on cement floors.

 

[AMink]

OK, here's where I'm at. The tub/shower pan is fiberglass with a plastic covering. I glassed over the crack to give it some strength and used JB Weld to plug the little hole. I'm going to sand it down and use some porcelin paint to make it white. I was amazed at what the tub was sitting on. There is a little platform with strips of left over flooring and firring strips to hold the tub up on the bottom. There is no support at all for about 4" around the outer part of the pan, right where the crack is. I'm going to use the foam to at least supply a little support. Nothing like quality! Will post some pics later.

 

[Alphacowboy]

just dont get that foam on anything, it doesnt come off! Definately dont get it on your hootas! :-laf