Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I recently decided to add an oil bypass filter to my truck. After searching for what systems to put on, I decided to make my own with several goals:
1- Keep the installed cost below $100.
2- Spin on system, I did not want to change the TP style filters.
3- Readily available, inexpensive, filters.
4- Clean installation, in fact, I wanted the system to be relatively invisible when done.
5- Have fun!
Another TDR member decided he wanted one too, so we went after it together from here. Helpers are good, and besides, who wants to drink alone? Below are 5 photos of the install and kit. Here's how we got it all done:
After researching a few websites, most notably, Bob Is The Oil Guy , we decided to try a Baldwin B164 filter. We bought the Baldwin OB1305 filter base. After searching for a suitable location to mount the filter, we settled on a spot behind the passenger side of the front bumper. First we pulled the wheel well out. We used a scrap of ¼” aluminum plate we had and cut it to fit. We then drilled mounting holes to attach it to the truck and for the filter base. All was attached with 5/16” hardware. No welding involved!
In order to keep the return line installation clean, we ordered a Cummins 3931827 turbo oil return fitting and associated O ring. We then had a friend braze this closed and tapped one of the four 1/8” NPT x ¼” hose fittings into it. I then used a long screw driver and a pair of vise grips to easily remove the expansion plug from the un-used return galley on the side of the block below the factory oil filter. After installing 30 inches of ¼” Parker high temp hose onto the push-loc fitting, I drove the return fitting into the oil galley.
The pressure side required a 1/8” NPT elbow and another 1/8” NPT x ¼” hose fitting with 28 inches of the Parker hose.
The hoses were carefully routed to the filter base and attached with 1/8” NPT elbows and the remaining 1/8” NPT x ¼” hose fittings.
After that, all that remained was to fire it up, check for leaks, and enjoy a celebratory beverage. Please note that if after doing a before-and-after used oil analysis, if the results are unsatisfactory, I fully intend to install a name brand manufacturers’ spin-on bypass filter using the plumbing I've already installed. I will follow up with before and after oil particle count data when we get it and add it to this post.
Following is the parts list for this project. We spent $77. 69 for each system. We did NOT pay retail for these items, so your results may vary depending on where you shop and what kind of deals you can make. We estimate the degree of difficulty as 2 beers on a 6 beer scale.
1 Cummins 3931827 oil return & O ring
6 feet of Parker 1/4" high temp hydraulic hose
1 Baldwin OB1305 base
4 1/8” NPT x ¼” push-loc fittings
3 1/8” NPT 90 degree brass elbows
1 Scrap aluminum plate
6 5/16” bolts, nuts, & washers
1 Baldwin B164 filter
1- Keep the installed cost below $100.
2- Spin on system, I did not want to change the TP style filters.
3- Readily available, inexpensive, filters.
4- Clean installation, in fact, I wanted the system to be relatively invisible when done.
5- Have fun!
Another TDR member decided he wanted one too, so we went after it together from here. Helpers are good, and besides, who wants to drink alone? Below are 5 photos of the install and kit. Here's how we got it all done:
After researching a few websites, most notably, Bob Is The Oil Guy , we decided to try a Baldwin B164 filter. We bought the Baldwin OB1305 filter base. After searching for a suitable location to mount the filter, we settled on a spot behind the passenger side of the front bumper. First we pulled the wheel well out. We used a scrap of ¼” aluminum plate we had and cut it to fit. We then drilled mounting holes to attach it to the truck and for the filter base. All was attached with 5/16” hardware. No welding involved!
In order to keep the return line installation clean, we ordered a Cummins 3931827 turbo oil return fitting and associated O ring. We then had a friend braze this closed and tapped one of the four 1/8” NPT x ¼” hose fittings into it. I then used a long screw driver and a pair of vise grips to easily remove the expansion plug from the un-used return galley on the side of the block below the factory oil filter. After installing 30 inches of ¼” Parker high temp hose onto the push-loc fitting, I drove the return fitting into the oil galley.
The pressure side required a 1/8” NPT elbow and another 1/8” NPT x ¼” hose fitting with 28 inches of the Parker hose.
The hoses were carefully routed to the filter base and attached with 1/8” NPT elbows and the remaining 1/8” NPT x ¼” hose fittings.
After that, all that remained was to fire it up, check for leaks, and enjoy a celebratory beverage. Please note that if after doing a before-and-after used oil analysis, if the results are unsatisfactory, I fully intend to install a name brand manufacturers’ spin-on bypass filter using the plumbing I've already installed. I will follow up with before and after oil particle count data when we get it and add it to this post.
Following is the parts list for this project. We spent $77. 69 for each system. We did NOT pay retail for these items, so your results may vary depending on where you shop and what kind of deals you can make. We estimate the degree of difficulty as 2 beers on a 6 beer scale.
1 Cummins 3931827 oil return & O ring
6 feet of Parker 1/4" high temp hydraulic hose
1 Baldwin OB1305 base
4 1/8” NPT x ¼” push-loc fittings
3 1/8” NPT 90 degree brass elbows
1 Scrap aluminum plate
6 5/16” bolts, nuts, & washers
1 Baldwin B164 filter
