Homemade Garage Carriage Doors...anyone made some?

[SOLER]

It's hard to believe I can't find any examples (let alone any plans) of how to make carriage doors... the kind that swing out. I'm putting up a steel building in my backyard. I've looked at a regular overhead door, but am trying to steer away from that for several reasons...

1. Since it's a steel building, there is no framing inside, so I have to add all the framing and beams to mount the track to.

2. Aside from having to add the framing, swing out doors would keep the area overhead clean.

3. Expense. Seems carriage doors would be much cheaper.

4. Better looking. I know you can get kits that make your overhead door "look" like carriage doors, but don't care for 'em.

5. They can open manually, or you can put an opener on them. Plus, if they are manual, I can open just one.



The only real downside is they open outward, so you can't park right in front of the garage and open the doors... you have to allow room for them to swing... just like a gate.



Anyone done this? I know of several places that sell these doors, but they are more money than an overhead. So, the two main reasons I want to do this are: I like the looks and functionality, and cost.

 

[tolmsted]

Ok, I'll try to help you. I have sold steel buildings and had them erected in my past life so I understand your steel frame and of course you will need to install the wood backing to mount a door. .

That said, have you considered sliding doors?

In regards to wood swing doors, there not hard to build at all. Depends how large they will be in determining if you use 1x"s or 2x"s laminated up. T&G boards and/or plywood?

Talk with a local framer for ideas.

Have fun, Tom

 

[SOLER]

Yeah, I thought about sliders, but they won't work in my situation (I don't think) The opening is 12' W x 8' H ... I've got a 20' W building, A frame, 11. 5' H. I'm going to have a service door there, too, so it's not like the garage door is going right in the middle. So, each swing door would be 6' W. I thought about laminating 2 2x4's together for the edges, with a groove in the middle for 3/4" plywood. I can't imagine needing anything any beefier than that. The frame would be 3" thick. I plan to use mortice and tenon for the stiles and rails, that way the corners would be real strong. I just wish I could use some plans to follow. I could do my own, but I'm getting so burned out with this whole project that my brain is fried.

 

[THess]

I'm totally with you on the look of the fake roll-up garage doors, but a door built as heavy as you're talking will take some POWERFUL hinges to hold up. Any swinging door always wants to pull away at the top hinge; a 6' wide door by 8' tall will create a lot of stress. I know someone mentioned a sliding door, and to me that sounds like the best option. You would still be able to park in front of them. You could always split them into two 6' sections and slide one each way if space is limited. I'm not trying to change your mind; I just think you are really going to be frustrated with a swinging door that big. Good luck.

 

[BGlidewell]

I think the OP establishes the problem and the answer as to why it's a problem at odds of a solution. Any door needs framing and the type of door desired requires the most of any door. Sliding doors would require less framing. I used 14' roll-ups. less than 24" of space required at the inside front top of the building interior with clear space beyond that.

 

[fest3er]

I made a set of similar doors years back. They worked well, and are still being used 20+ years and several owners later. They were for a small pre-WWII garage, so they were more like 3x7. But the concept should be similar.



The main problem we had after was the doors were 'flimsy' and a little warped; due to space limitations, we built the door with 2x4s 'on the flat' (keep the thickness down) and put T-111 plywood on the outside. That problem was cured by putting a turnbuckle inside to pull the doors straight (pre-tension them in a way).



Basically, you want to build a pair of swinging walls.

• Find and buy the most heavy-duty hinges you can get. Bearings would be good; zerk fittings would be even better. I don't know if standard 'side' hinges will work on these door, you may have to use face-mounted hinges. Your selection will determine how you build the hinge sides of the door frames. You might want to use double 2x4 on the hinge-side of the doors regardless.
  
• Reinforce the (building) frame sides that will hold the doors which'll be heavy.
  
• Since you have the room, build a 2x4 frame with suitable 'trussing' inside to prevent sagging over time. The frame will be 3. 5" thick. (Make like you are building a wall, but include some diagonals for sag control. )
  
• Rip the edges (where the doors meet) with about a 5 degree angle, perhaps, to avoid interference when the doors are opened. *
  
• If you want windows, make the frame accordingly and make the opening 1. 5" larger than the desired windows size all 'round.
  
• Make sure the frame is flat and well blocked when you attach the
  
  plywood and until the adhesive sets. It wouldn't do to hang a warped door.
  
• Hint: trace the frame onto the face of the plywood (outside and inside, as you decide below) FIRST. This'll show you where you can nail/staple when assembling.
  
• On the inside, pretend you're making a truss (triangles on the corners, squares over the other 2x4 joints. Glue and nail/staple them on. But leave the window opening clear. If you want the doors to be nice-looking and insulated inside, stuff the doors with insulation and use the same plywood as outside. But keeping the inside open will allow you to more securely fasten the hinges. And you can still apply insulation board after.
  
• On the outside, use a 3/4" exterior grade plywood, attach it with outdoor construction/decking adhesive and nylon coated, galvanized nails (or suitable deck screws). Apply it horizontally (two 4x6 pieces for each door).
  
• Build the window 'frame' to insert into the opening using 1x5 around the outer edge. Design it so the outer edge extends to the outer face of the plywood.
  
• Ideally, the bottom edge of the window frame will be sloped outward so water runs off it (like a window sill).
  
• Use polycarb or acrylic for the pane(s).
  
• On the outside, apply 1x2, 1x3 and/or 1x4 to make whatever design you want and to frame the window if you include one. Glue and nail/staple the 1-bys on.
  
• Install the 1-by outside frame around the window to be flush with the window's 'frame', thus finishing it nicely.
  
• Caulk around the 1-bys so water won't run/collect behind them.
  
• Use the best, most durable primer you can buy for the ouside. Soak the inside with carpenter's viagra.
  
• You'll want good, heavy-duty latches to close the doors. And you'll want good, heavy-duty latches to hold the doors *open*.
  

* Computing the angle: arctan(5. 75/72)*180/3. 14) = 4. 57 degrees. Huh. I guessed close.



When done, you will have a set of heavy, solid, nearly indestructible doors.



For the outside plywood, you can use almost anything 3/4" thick. Maybe 1/2" or 5/8" plywood would be OK, too.



You'll apply the aesthetic facade to the outside door faces after the base doors are assembled. Wainscotting, ribbing, applique; you could apply almost anything artsy. Shoot, you could have a wrap printed that looks like the doors are open and lights are on, and a new diesel F250 is up on blocks getting the engine replaced. For the inside, you could have a wrap printed that matches the outside of the building so the doors almost disappear when they're open.



I build a set of trusses to replace an 8x18 shed roof. I glued the braces on and used 1" 1/4 crown staples to hold them on while the adhesive set. Installed, the trusses don't give at all. Good construction adhesive can't be beat. If they can glue airplanes together, you can glue garage doors together.



If nothing else, this should give you some ideas. Maybe you can use 2x2 for the framing; but this would probably require plywood face inside and outside for rigidity. And you'd want to use 2x4 on the flats for the hinge edges anyway.



Four verticals on 24" centers should be plenty. Maybe three verticals on 36" centers would still be adequate.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Years ago, my father and I built swinging garage doors similar to Neal's instructions. They were heavy and we had to be careful with them when the wind was blowing. Over time they deterioated, warped, and sagged as will eventually happen using wood. We took the wood doors down and rebuilt them by welding frames of 2" square steel tubing which were lighter, no warp, no sag, and/or rot problems and they lasted for years.



Bill

 

[BIGNASTY]

Look into using vinyl fencing I used it to make loft doors for my barn. Used the side rail or posts in the normal fence to frame the doors, Then used the fencing to fill the field of the frame, I dont know how big you were going to make the doors but my loft doors are 10'x10' each and could go bigger. The thing I liked about them they are lite (I did use the threaded rod and turnbuckle idea from corner to corner) to prevent sag. They will not rot, never need to paint Hope it works out . PS found some info on the type of stuff I used hope this cut and paste works if not ill send the info to you BIG Orange County Gates | Orange County Vinyl Gates | Orange County Gate Company It worked im surprised with my comp. skills but you can see on a small scale what I did you can make just about any size you want just by adding pannels

 

[SOLER]

Roll up

I think the OP establishes the problem and the answer as to why it's a problem at odds of a solution. Any door needs framing and the type of door desired requires the most of any door. Sliding doors would require less framing. I used 14' roll-ups. less than 24" of space required at the inside front top of the building interior with clear space beyond that.

I'm with you on the roll up doors, however, they are way more money than an overhead door.

 

[BGlidewell]

I'm with you on the roll up doors, however, they are way more money than an overhead door.

it's a pay now or later thing and later means pay more later especially if there is a accident etc.

the only way I'd attempt what I think you are doing is with square tubing of proper gauge and dimensions for the weight mounted to pipe sections that fit over the OD of a pipe support at the building opening sides. Build the frames to spec, mount the small pipe at the two sides of the opening, slip the larger ~4" pipe sections over the pipe and weld on to the door frames. Drill and zert the pipe sections for grease. Turn buckles can be used if needed to square the doors if they sag to warp.

 

[guldam]

I've got heavy saggy doors on my 1936 vintage garage. If it were me I'd instead strive to build light and strong.



I'd essentially build hollow core doors with maybe 2x2 or 2x4 frame work and fill with foam insulation. I'd epoxy on 1/8 or 1/4" plywood, and then encapsulate the whole thing with epoxy like System 3, and then prime it with epoxy based primer, and then paint with a good quality marine oil or polyurethane based paint. For more strength and protection against checking fiberglass it.



You can make these doors light and extremely strong and weather resistant.



I used the same sort of light weight building strategy to build a 22' off shore fishing boat I've had 35 miles off shore, in some pretty scary seas. It's holding up wonderfully after five years.



GulDam

 

[SOLER]

Great suggestions

Thanks for the replies. Got me thinking... I'm considering a steel frame for the opening, using 2x4 or 2x6 steel tubing, or "C" channel for the sides and top of opening.



Then, make the doors like I was planning, but instead of using 3/4" plywood, I'll use 1/8" with foam in the middle.



Then, fab some pipe hinges myself. I can make all the mounts where they bolt or are welded on the inside (so someone can't take them apart from the outside). Not sure how to zerk them without water being able to get in, got to draw that out on paper some more. Where could I get some grommets or bushings to seal it off?



About how much of that system 3 epoxy to coat both doors?



I've thought about just making one door, and using it as a mold for fiberglassing them; strong and light... interesting... Wow, just thinking about that, I can picture just how big of a mess I could make with all that fiber and resin.



Thanks again guys. I'm still open for more suggestions.

 

[THess]

Northern Tool has weldable bullet hinges that might get you started.

 

[guldam]

A gallon or so will coat all of the wood inside and out. It's important to seal the wood completely, and then cover it with primer and paint. Epoxy is strong, but it's not UV resistant by itself. Seal the edges, several times and perhaps fill the end grain with epoxy thickened with cabosil or fumed silica.



Mix only what you can use immediately, and do not try to epoxy when it's super hot. It will go off in the pan before you get a chance to apply it.



GulDam

Thanks for the replies. Got me thinking... I'm considering a steel frame for the opening, using 2x4 or 2x6 steel tubing, or "C" channel for the sides and top of opening.



Then, make the doors like I was planning, but instead of using 3/4" plywood, I'll use 1/8" with foam in the middle.



Then, fab some pipe hinges myself. I can make all the mounts where they bolt or are welded on the inside (so someone can't take them apart from the outside). Not sure how to zerk them without water being able to get in, got to draw that out on paper some more. Where could I get some grommets or bushings to seal it off?



About how much of that system 3 epoxy to coat both doors?



I've thought about just making one door, and using it as a mold for fiberglassing them; strong and light... interesting... Wow, just thinking about that, I can picture just how big of a mess I could make with all that fiber and resin.



Thanks again guys. I'm still open for more suggestions.

 

[rbattelle]

We took the wood doors down and rebuilt them by welding frames of 2" square steel tubing which were lighter, no warp, no sag, and/or rot problems and they lasted for years.

That's what I was thinking. The older I get, the more often I find the answer to a problem is, "steel".

Not sure how to zerk them without water being able to get in, got to draw that out on paper some more.

The grease will keep the water out! Use a good quality grease and plenty of it, and there's nowhere for water to intrude.



-Ryan