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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) horsepower?

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torqmonster

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I have a 1998 12V 5-speed, last night I just got done putting in the 3000GSK, AFC Spring Kit(medium spring), and #10 TST Plate, and it is all the way forward, so is the AFC housing. I have all the gauges, but I was wondering if anyone could give me a ballpark on what kinda of horsepower I am puttin out? Thanks!
 
Well, thats part of the problem, acouple days before this I put in a new rebuilt transmission, and a new clutch at the same time, it is rated to 500hp, I got it off ebay it is a Valairinc 13" Clutch. I got my flywheel resurfaced. Anyway, there is significant clutch shuddering/chattering trying to start our in 2nd. If i start out in 1st it's fine. For one I would like to know if it is supposed to do that, and/or if it needs time to break in or for the clutch to seat, which also leads to, after all the mods I recently did, the clutch slips in 4th and 5th gear if I get on it. I did all the work myself, except for the resurfacing of the flywheel, but I made sure to clean everything before I put it in(clutch, flywheel, pressure plate) I guess I don't know what to do or expect. Do I drive it awhile to see what happens? I can actually get on it pretty good through all the gears before it will slip. But I doubted I was hitting 500hp, but I was just wondering what I was pushin just to see. Anyway, that's where I'm at. Thanks!



Oh yea, as far as boost, I haven't really looked, but it will break 30 for sure, and EGT's get up in the low 1000's when I get on it, otherwise regular driving about 600-800
 
That clutch is a button style ceramic clutch, and it's a 4 button too thats next to the most aggressive. You will probably always have some chatter/shudder starting out because of the design, it might get better as the clutch breaks in.

You should drive it like a granny for atleast 500 miles to break in a new clutch, and start out in first for now too if it doesn't chatter. Only if you are lucky you haven't glazed over the clutch or flywheel and damaged it permanently.
 
Thanks, I will try that. Since it slipped, I have been driving it conservatively, I only have about 75 miles on the new clutch yet, so hopefully I haven't damaged it permantly. Thanks for the advice.
 
All I can say is... watch out for misleading advertising. Any company can throw a rating at a clutch but where is the proof. Folks, you are going to see a lot of company's hit these sites because of the popularity. They are going to have great prices and high holding powers, all I can say is be careful. For example, look at Spec Clutches site, they say their single disc clutch will hold 1900 ft lbs of torque. :rolleyes: I don't know if my DD Iron Giant will hold that, heck I haven't seen a truck with 1900 ft lbs of torque. Once you reach a specific HP, torque starts to stay still. Haisley has achieved 1000 HP and runs about 1500 torque. Please, I am not tiring to slam anybody but, just because they say it is does not mean it is so.



Peter
 
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Peters' right guys you gotta be careful..... The Double Disc I bought was supposed to be good for 600 if I remember right maybe even high 500's. And shoot this darn thing is only 2+ years old and still holding close to 700rwhp :-laf ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... THANK YOU PETER!!!
 
Yea, I do agree, I may have jumped the gun on the clutch. My transmission went out and I wanted to get it fixed right away, and thought I better get a clutch with the mods I was goin to do, and I saw that one on ebay and got it without research. I hope it doesn't end up bitin me in the tail.
 
With the same setup my dynoed 350/ 812 with the plate 3/4 forward. I moved it all the wat forward and boost went from 30 or 31, to 34 35. So I would say I am at 375 875+.
 
Boondock don't forget you have 15. 5* timing so that helps a good bit. A ten plate full forward with no other mods besides intake/exhuast should be around 350 RWHP.
 
hi all... so i'm wondering, how many HPs would you guess i have? my truck: 98 12v, 5-spd, 3K gsk, timing 16*, stock plate forward, AFE in stock box, 4" mbrp. .



i just did the gsk and timing last week, very noticeable... . i go from a few lbs of boost to 20 in a couple a secs... & what would be next? is there advantage to the tst if the stock plate is already forward?should i only go after injectors if i want big HP?



thnx, great forum!!
 
Not to wet anyone's battery, but I think it is good to try different products, that way we all get to see the results and can make more informed decisions regarding our purchases. I remember posting regarding valair products and no one had used them so I too have purchased from them to try and will be installing it pretty soon. I was asked by them how I was going to ride my truck and I told them that I liked to play a lot and was looking for a clutch that would allow me to do that and I ended up with the 4 button. Let's give them a chance and see where it goes from there. Peter at SB has been able to prove his stuff from being given a chance, so give others the same chance.
 
So far so good with my Valair Clutch. I've been driving like a grandma, only got about 200 miles on it yet. I have a 50 mile commute to work so I drive my G-E-O Metro, and my truck is my weekend/play truck. I will keep everyone posted on the clutch. Hopefully it breaks in ok cause the local pulls start in a little more than a month!
 
torqmonster, did you have the same crowd that re-surfaced your flywheel do the machining to 7"? and did youhave any problems with the install. Anything I should look out for? Looking at these clutches I think you will be safe with the little slippage you had.

Cheers Mate

Derek
 
I only had the flywheel resurfaced, I didn't do any machining? I was told I only had to get the flywheel resurfaced. As far as the install, I am mechanically inclined, but it was my first clutch job, and it did not come with an alignment tool or a pilot bearing, so I got a bearing and a universal alignment tool from NAPA, and it was a pile. I ended up using the actual transmission as the alignment tool, I slide it in without the bell housing on, tightened down the pressure plate, then slide it back out, put the bell back on, and it went right in. That worked out alot better than the alignment tool I had. And be sure to keep an eye on the hydraulic clutch release, make sure it is out of the way. Good luck!
 
torqmonster said:
So far so good with my Valair Clutch. I've been driving like a grandma, only got about 200 miles on it yet. I have a 50 mile commute to work so I drive my G-E-O Metro, and my truck is my weekend/play truck. I will keep everyone posted on the clutch. Hopefully it breaks in ok cause the local pulls start in a little more than a month!





Well, highway miles don't count as much because you aren't engaging and disengaging the clutch very often. If it isn't too many highway miles than you're A-OK. I'd take it out for a cruise every weekend putting about 100 miles on it at a time just driving around town.



Getting the flywheel ''machined'' is just another way of saying ''surfaced''.
 
Valair clutch

i have done the same as ya'll have, saw the great price and it said it would hold the horsepower i wanted to run. i have had the valair for about two months now, and at first i didnt pay attention and slipped the clutch a couple of times. i was hacked that it was slipping! but the more and more i drive it, the better it seems to get. i have almost 1700 miles on the valair and just today, i decided to play a little (got the valves adjusted, wanted to try it out). that clutch held everything up to stage 4x5! finally, it held! i was pretty happy. tomarrow im gonna go where there are no cops and im gonna let the coal roll! hopefully it has broke in.
 
Thanks Matthug, that's what I thought, the miles I have put on so far were either short trips or back road trips with a lot of startin and stoppin.
 
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