Horton Fan, again.........

[Archive]

I ran through every page and couldn't find the lengthy thread on Horton fans... ...
I just bought a 30' fifth wheeler and am having some engine heat in this desert weather (100+ and plenty of wind). Everyone always talks about egts but never engine heat. My egts are fine but the motor is getting hot and I don't have the trailer loaded up with all my junk yet.
Is the Horton fan what I need?
Thanks a bunch, you guys are great!
Ron

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'99 Quad long bed, emerald green/stainless rocker panels, 4x4, 5speed, 3. 55 limslip, Rancho 9000/remote adjuster, DD stage IIs and a bunch of othe stuff
Boulder City, Nevada

 

[Archive]

Interesting Thread.

I wonder if the DDII's and the stock turbo are combining to build up more heat in the engine? HVAC or others, opinion on that?

I recall someone talking about how we can continue to soup up these engines, but that there is a limit to cooling capability, especially under load. I think the discussion was regarding using marine injectors vs the unlimited cooling capability an engine has in a boat.

As to the Horton, is there a body of evidence that suggests the Horton can cool better? I thought the advantage was to kill the horsepower drag when a fan was not needed?

I have DDI's and will likely never tow anything like your big 5'r. I have noticed that the engine 'seems' to idle a big warmer than with the old injectors.

I wonder if anyone has gone to the extreme of adding more radiator to one of these monsters? I would think there is plenty of room under the bed to accomplish that (and likely still cheaper than the Horton).

 

[Archive]

Ron,

The first thing I would do is change the thermostat. Many of the 98's and some of the 99's had a thermostat that didn't open all the way when hot. Make sure you get the latest one. I would suggest you get it from your Cummins distributor. I think if you search the archives you can find the number, if not, e-mail me today or tomorrow,(leaving for the west coast & MM) and I can look it up for you. Also, make sure your viscous fan drive is operating properly. Can you hear the fan engage? Another thing--make sure your radiator is clean--look down between the A/C condensor and between the intercooler and radiator and make sure there isn't anything in there blocking the air--bugs, leaves, grass, etc. If you have a bug screen on in front of the A/C condensor, remove it. The screen impedes a lot of air.

Remember one of the basics of a diesel engine, the harder you work it the more heat it produces because of the increased fuel. Yes, the engine modifications can increase the coolant heat factor since you are adding more fuel. (You may have discovered one of the reasons Cummins derates the ISB engine for Dodge!) As far as heat, you can operate a diesel on the hot side which actually makes it more efficient to the point of boiling the coolant. Don't let it get over 240 degrees which is near the boiling point. Running the engine at 200 degrees and above just narrows you margin to the boiling point so you must keep a close eye on it. Dropping to a lower gear should ease your heating problem if the thermostat is working properly.

The Horton is an excellent and effective, but expensive cooling aid. The factory fan runs at approximately 80% of engine RPM when fully engaged where the Horton is a direct hookup and runs at 100% when engaged. With the Horton you will run higher temps. The Horton engages after the thermostat is fully open at 203-205 degrees and disengages at 180-185 degrees.

I towed our 30' Hitchhiker II last summer in Texas and the southwest with the temps in the 105-107(one afternoon 111 drgrees) range with the A/C running full blast with a 97 3500 automatic, 4. 10, with no heating problems. I had changed the factory original thermostat and not done any mods to the engine. The engine temp would run up some over 190 degrees but never close to the 240 degree mark.

(I keep editing this because I think of something else to check)

Cya @ MM, Bill



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Y2K 3500QC, 6 Speed, 4. 10, SLT+, Camper & Tow Pkg. , Westin Chrome Nerf Bars, Mopar Flaps, Reese 20K Hitch, V-A CPC, EGT & Boost Gauges, RPM 45 Gallon Aux. Fuel Tank, Highway Products 5th Wheel Toolbox, ECM Controlled PacBrake, Painless Wiring Kit, Mag-Hytec Diff. Cover, 80% Towing Hitchhiker II 31', 2 slideouts, 19,750 GCW

[This message has been edited by Bill Stockard (edited 05-05-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Bill Stockard (edited 05-05-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Thannks Bill and David,
The thermostat was the first thing David questioned on a similar post I made on the 24 valve section. I will do this right away.
I'm glad to see you're not having problems!
Thanks again,
Ron